Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-18-2016, 11:02 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
92landyacht's Avatar
 
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 772
Over heating problem on 92 LY

Been having a problem with her (1992 LY 36' w/454) running hot since I've had her. Now planning on doing somethings to try to remedy the problem.

First: Here is what I've noticed. Seems to run hot on mild hill climbs and in city traffic. OK if I run her in 70 degree conditions but once I'm in the mid 90's it's a real struggle to keep the temps out of the red. Especially at lower speeds.

I've replaced the thermostat (165 degree) and radiator cap (16psi) with no real change. Coolant is clean and green.

First course of action is to hose down the radiator from the inside out in an attempt to flush any debris that may be logged in the radiator fins. Just got the dash AC working so I don't want to mess with removing the condenser. Also plan on replacing the bottom radiator hose and drain/fill with known fresh 50/50 coolant.

Also planning to replace the fan clutch since I never hear it come on. Anyone done this without having to remove the radiator? I can also see the bolts that mount it to the water pump through the curb side wheel well. Any tips on the replacement. I was planning on doing it from the doghouse and just leave the fan inside and pull the clutch. Then reattach the fan to the clutch while inside the radiator shroud and then attach the assembly to the water pump.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
__________________

__________________
92landyacht is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2016, 11:17 AM   #2
1 Rivet Member
 
bigjohnn's Avatar
 
2005 25' Safari
los lunas , New Mexico
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Images: 1
The rad is pluged-up.End of story
__________________

__________________
bigjohnn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2016, 02:21 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
bwoodtx's Avatar
 
1997 30' Excella
1961 26' Overlander
1954 22' Flying Cloud
1981 28' Airstream 280
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,339
I would tend to agree with bigjohnn. Take an infraed temp gun and verify your temps.

Also, check the temp at the top of the radiator and the bottom-should be a 10*-20* difference. You have an a/c condensor, a trans cooler, and the a radiator up there. Radiator is the LAST thing to get air. Take the time to diassemble, you dont have to break hoses loose and clean all three GOOD. Should sovle problem unless you have something going on in the engine.
__________________
Bruce
WBCCI# 9259 AIR# 38927 TAC-TX 14
Stop Littering-Spay & Neuter-- Adopt From Rescue
He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion.
bwoodtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2016, 11:15 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
92landyacht's Avatar
 
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwoodtx View Post
Take the time to diassemble, you dont have to break hoses loose and clean all three GOOD. Should sovle problem unless you have something going on in the engine.
So I don't have to disconnect any of the condenser lines to get to the radiator? Can it be just flipped up or something?

My plan was to clean out any debris between the radiator and condenser but was concerned that I had to disconnect the condenser hoses first before I could gain access to the radiator from the front. Freon 12 is not easy to find and not cheap. I have no method of doing recovery.

The fluid in the radiator has always been clean and green with no signs of debris. Engine coolant passages looked very clean when I replaced the thermostat as well. No signs of rust or scale. Was planning on doing a radiator flush though. The coolant may be too much anti-freeze. Was a little thicker then expected. Previous owner may have very well put in 100% anti-freeze instead of the 50/50 dilution recommended.

The reason for the fan clutch replacement was due to the lack of any signs of engagement from initial start to high temps readings. No increase in sound what so ever. Although that could be a lack of air flow through the radiator.
__________________
92landyacht is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2016, 02:12 PM   #5
Registered User
 
1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 150
We also have the 454 in our 96 LY30.
When the fan (clutch) kicks in, it is quite noticeable.
WHOOSH!!!!!
For lack of better words.
Once it does kick in, the temp gauge responds rapidly.
__________________
pago cruiser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2016, 02:16 PM   #6
4 Rivet Member
 
1991 25' Excella
Stanfield , Oregon
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 317
It the fan clutch not the radiator, if that was the case it would have an overheating issue all the time.
__________________
SpletKay06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2016, 02:20 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
92landyacht's Avatar
 
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by pago cruiser View Post
We also have the 454 in our 96 LY30.
When the fan (clutch) kicks in, it is quite noticeable.
WHOOSH!!!!!
For lack of better words.
Once it does kick in, the temp gauge responds rapidly.
No WHOOSH sound at all. I'll do the cleaning and flush but probably replace the fan clutch as well.
__________________
92landyacht is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2016, 06:44 PM   #8
4 Rivet Member
 
Paul Dobbin's Avatar
 
1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Franklin NC , North Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 290
Radiator needs a flow test

I think bigJohn nailed it. These old radiators get plugged inside & out where you can't see it and cause you to run hot. Dirt that blocks fluid inside and dirt that blocks airflow outside is common with age.
__________________
Paul
"The Roadhouse" our Land Yachts name
Paul Dobbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2016, 09:22 PM   #9
Registered User
 
1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 150
Just thought of something else. Awhile ago I remember a thread on this forum where the inner spring reinforcement of the lower hose was corroding enough to cause rust to slow down coolant passing through the hose. Tried to find it just now, but could not. Might want to check there; or try searching with some different ordered parameters. Unfortunately, the search engine on this site ... um... ah... is not very efficient.
__________________
pago cruiser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2016, 11:40 AM   #10
4 Rivet Member
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Lynnwood , Washington
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 311
If you've got a 165 degree thermostat and you're still overheating, something's going on.

1) Clogged radiator - not just the inside, but outside as well (inspect cooling fins closely). Have you got unimpeded air flow??
2) Impeller blades on water pump may have rusted away. This happens, especially in a caustic cooling system environment.
3) Weak fan clutch

Something to keep in mind: When you fix one thing in your cooling system, the next weakest link (in the cooling system chain) will be the one to fail. So be prepared for that. As a matter of prevention, plan on replacing radiator hoses and heater hoses.

BTW - When you drain the coolant, don't just pull the lower radiator hose, pull the 1/4" pipe plugs on either side of the block. Those plugs drain the water jackets. You should also drain heater core, coolant reservoir, and lower part of the radiator (there should a plug for that). Drain as much coolant as you can while you can.

Carefully note condition of old coolant (Don't just look at it. Give it the sniff test. Compare with new coolant). That'll give you some clue as to what's going on inside your cooling system. Ugly coolant means ugly cooling system. You may hafta flush (more than once).

Tom
__________________
TomKirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2016, 02:28 PM   #11
Slideout Registry !!
 
2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 422
454 GMs are notorious for clogged radiators and bad thermostats. Take the radiator to a radiator shop and have them boil it out. They may have to re-core it. Also, I had a friend who rebuilt his 454 only to find out later the overheating was due to a faulty thermostat. My experience is that you need to do this every five years. On the newer GMs, if you change their anti-freeze every five years with a flush you would be OK. Then, happy camping from then on.
guskmg
__________________
guskmg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2016, 02:46 PM   #12
4 Rivet Member
 
Naper's Avatar
 
2017 30' Classic
Loretto , Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 493
Thermostat has no effect on overheating. Once its open, its open. The thermostat is there to help the engine warm up faster and keep it warm in cold weather.
Overheating is usually air flow or water flow.
__________________
Naper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2016, 03:46 PM   #13
3 Rivet Member
 
Grosspoluter's Avatar

 
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Franklin Park , Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 129
454 stay cool

I to went through my cooling system on my 1984 airstream 345, 454 V8
Doing a little research I found posts on other sights that said "the 454 loves the heat"
I say that's B.S.
I drained the system, back flushed the system installed a new 165* thermostat...
But also was informed that the temp sending unit on the 454 is on the head not the intake manifold... (Head is always hotter)
So I installed a aftermarket temp gauge (installed in upper hose) and there is quite a difference 220* head 180 hose
I finally got it running cooler ditched the antifreeze for "water wetter" (I think it's manufactured by red line products)
All was running perfectly, until a few weeks ago, threw a belt and overheated 😕
(Read some of my more recent posts)
Hope some of this info helped
__________________
Grosspoluter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2016, 03:51 PM   #14
3 Rivet Member
 
Grosspoluter's Avatar

 
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Franklin Park , Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 129
Water wetter

Forgot to mention...
Cooling system needs to be drained and antifreeze added for the winter
DO NOT leave the water wetter in over the winter!
__________________

__________________
Grosspoluter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Over charging battery problem zinodog Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 12 05-14-2015 12:22 AM
Over kill, or just over the top! airjeff Tow Vehicles 12 07-22-2010 09:13 PM
Problem with '84 345 with hydronic heating!! joegooch Member Introductions 5 03-04-2009 08:06 AM
New heating element didn't fix the problem. 29348 Refrigerators 3 11-30-2007 05:11 PM
electric heating problem CANADIAN BOB Member Introductions 2 06-14-2007 10:18 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.