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Old 09-21-2007, 06:58 PM   #15
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Opened a can of worms today!

Took a day off today and got started on the section behind the driver's door. The plywood was all buckled and rotted, and still wet, so I tackled the inside. Pulled the sofa and prodded the inside wall for soft spots. I marked off an area to start demolition. Removed about three square feet of wall board, insulation and all but the outside layer of exterior plywood which was well bonded to the FG. I was not planning a redecorating job this soon, but now it is imminent. I'm okay with that--kinda looking forward to it. I also plan to lose the carpet from the entry to the cockpit riser and maybe install cork flooring since that has always been a difficult area to keep clean. I took some photos and will post them when I'm not so pressed for time. Will keep posting as I make progress so stay tuned.
Frank
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Old 09-25-2007, 03:45 PM   #16
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thanks for the update
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:27 PM   #17
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I had a good look today,
For the rear looks like I can get to the "bulge" by going from the inside in the rear closet,so the interior can be fixed fairly easy with any type wall paper. Or even use cedar like the rear wall
For under the drivers window looks like the same however I might have to find some replacement wall paper between the drivers window and slide out so the question of the day is any Ideas of a source ?
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:15 PM   #18
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It gets worse before it gets better!

I ordered some SikaFlex 221 to reaseal the fiberglass to the frame. Found some pink polyurethane insulation at Home Depot which is 3/4" thick. Two layers contact cemented together will replace the soaked white styrofoam which is 1 1/2", perfectly. My holdup is the outside wall which was 1/4" luan plywood. Contact cememting the same thing will probably not be stout enough to get the bulge to lay flat and hold it that way. Might have to beef it up. Meanwhile I found the curbside between the entrance door and the passenger seat is also damaged so I'll be tearing that out as well. And to add to the fun, I have found some damage to the underlayment under the carpet behind the passenger seat after tearing out the carpet. Tomorrow I will try to find laminated wood flooring to match that of the kitchen and replace the carpet with that. Will leave carpet in the cockpit for now. As for the wall covering, I went to Sherwin Williams and looked at their myriad sample books for a replacement. Airstream lists the inside panels in the parts book with the wall covering attached. I'm not fond of it anyway so off it will go all the way thru the kitchen and living room an be replaced with heavy vinyl wallpaper about the same color, but more to my liking. It is pricey. I'll need to use either plywood ot masonite on top of the insulation to fasten it to. My work schedule changes tomorrow so I'll be able to get busy on it at least a few hours a day from here on. Hope to have some progress and photos to show by the end of this weekend. I have about seventeen days to finish this so I can use it for a trip we have planned so wish me luck in getting materials on time.
Frank
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Old 09-27-2007, 03:41 PM   #19
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Frank,
I talked to a guy yesterday, he said I may never get the bulge completely out, for the same reason you are saying so maybe a thicker marine plywood, but will the glue adhere to it ??
This is a very aggressive schedule, I wish you all the luck and I hope the availability of materials wont hold you up,
How much of the interior are you taking down (cabinets etc), I also want to take out the carpet from the door to the drivers seat, Mine has tile in front of the kitchen / bathroom, I want to replace all this with a wood / laminate type flooring. The tile was laid down then the wall to the bathroom installed and also goes under the kitchen sink stove that is part of the slide out, I think I can get to the tile under the kitchen stuff - but the bathroom wall is another story any ideas as how to do this ? I guess I can leave the tile in the bathroom itself, and use a dremell to cut the tile and do a transition between the floorings----anyway I am going to see how this delamination thing pans out before I start this other nightmare.
I love RV'S
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:09 PM   #20
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Frank
Hows life ? Any problems?
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Old 10-02-2007, 05:27 PM   #21
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No problems at all. I finished replacing the carpet with wood. Got most of the wall finished this weekend and will try to complete it tomorrow. Have about fifty photos to post and will by the end of the week. I don't want to slow down my momentum. About two or three more good days and it will be all finished. I'll open a new thread with the play by play as soon as I finish.
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:43 AM   #22
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I have posted a new thread with photos and information. Go to: Repairing a delaminated MH wall from the inside Part One. Part two will follow when it is completed. I am also going to put up some photos of the carpet removal and new wooden floor.
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Old 10-05-2007, 09:50 AM   #23
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Frank,
Dont stop for us,
Post when you can
Rob
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Old 10-06-2007, 11:30 AM   #24
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I’ve been through a related experience with my ’94 LY. Last year the doors for the storage compartments became loose, and the trim band between the fiberglass and the aluminum started getting loose on both sides near the rear of the motorhome. The local Airstream dealer diagnosed it as water having gotten in and rusted out the steel framing to which all this was fastened down to. He said that the repair would require cutting the fiberglass and welding in new steel – a minimum of $8,000. I found a local repair shop who does insurance repairs to motorhomes that have been involved in accidents. His quote was $25,000 saying that the walls had to be totally dissembled.

I was quite discouraged, but I did find a truck repair shop in Sewell NJ that specialized in fiberglass work. The owner of the shop (C2it Enterprise), John Campbell, had done considerable motor home repairs for the local Hitchworld when they had rental units (and was currently the contract repair shop for Penske), so I decided to take the chance and bring the LY there. It turned out that there was no rust or rot at all, but that it was assembled using aluminum rivets that had stretched and broken. In addition, one of the previous owners of the rig had had some repairs done that were improper. John and his crew removed all the storage compartment doors and the “wainscoting” (for want of a better word). Because the holes had been enlarged and would not hold any rivets, he slipping in some new steel behind it and welded it in. He used stainless steel rivets instead of aluminum ones, and then reassembled it all. The metal bottom was repainted all around (including the rear grill) with charcoal, base coat & clear coat, and both the front and rear caps, where the gel coat was worn and cracked, were sanded, filled and painted with automotive paint. One of John’s sons is a union caulker and he went over every seam to ensure that all seals were OK (they found some I didn’t know about that were potential problems).

While some of us are capable of making these repairs on our own, at my age, lack of the technical knowledge to make this type of repair and with arthritis in my hands, I would not embark on this as a do-it-yourself project. Thus I was pleased to be able to find someone to do it, do it well and at a reasonable price.
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Old 10-07-2007, 12:46 PM   #25
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So what was the bill ?
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Old 10-07-2007, 05:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstrv
So what was the bill ?
$6,220
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Old 10-07-2007, 05:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santart
NI finished replacing the carpet with wood.
This intrigues me. I've been considering replacing most of the carpet in my '94 LY. What I was thinking of doing was putting in hardwood flooring. The only thing that really deters me is that we have and travel with a couple of dogs - Dachshunds, to be precise. Based on our experience with dogs marking on floors, I find that it does leak into the joints between the hardwood, at least it does with the urethaned floors at home. I was musing over finishing with epoxy resin, but that turns out to be a one month job, as it takes several days to cure between layers.

I noticed recently that some of the home repair stores are now selling pre-finished bamboo flooring. Is this stuff any good? Has anyone had any experience with it? I am assuming that whatever flooring I decide upon, it should be glued down with silicone rtv adhesive as well as screwed down.

I'm open to suggestions, particularly from anyone who has had experience reflooring a motorhome or trailer.

Howard
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:15 PM   #28
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I am not sure how new this product is?? but it may be useful for some of these type repairs. Has anyone any experience with this product?



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