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Old 06-09-2011, 11:11 AM   #15
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Hello blkmagik and Dave: Thanks for sharing your HVAC stories.

I, too, got tired of driving in high heat with hot air blasting out of the front vents and installed a 1/4 turn shut-off valve just before the heater core. Works great.

Dave, you have inspired me to stick my head under the dash and sort out the hoses there. I'm sure at least one has become disconnected and another is kinked.

We love our LY, also.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:28 PM   #16
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My problem was I didn't have a air volume flowmeter, so only test was visual and after 6 months a real test under working conditions. Your model came with lcd and you don't have the oversized tv jammed in tight space so you might not find as many problems. But I would give odds on kinks, extra turns and unused ports from the a/c sending unit. Make sure your vacuum lines are tight so that you actually move the vent doors.
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Old 06-11-2011, 03:08 PM   #17
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HVAC Control Panel

After experiencing most of the problems mentioned in this tread,
I'd like to know a source to replace the entire HVAC control panel.

My 98 33 LY is built on the GM P chassis.

So is this some random GM control panel or Airstream only?

Chip in Beaufort, SC
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:37 PM   #18
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My '90 is built on a Chevy P3 chassis also. but I think the (pushbutton) heat/AC control is from a Dodge, it has a lot of Ford/Lincoln components as well.
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Old 06-18-2011, 07:03 AM   #19
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Whenever I heard...."I can't find any leaks" from the mechanics I knew it was probably the evaporator that was leaking. In most all GM's they are buried and very difficult to replace, most tech's are flat rate and stand to lose time on the repair, (can't complete the job in the allotted time.)

That said, a competent AC speciality shop would be your best bet. You may have to pay "punch time" but it would be worth it to get it fixed right the first time.

Good Luck!!!
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:01 PM   #20
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Question Land Yatch Dash AC

We just bought our 2001 Land Yatch XL355 and half way to our first destination (which was only 9 miles away HA) our AC unit pretty much died. It still blew, but the air was not cold at all. Our mechanic just called and said it was going to be $384 to repair some leaking valves and recharge it. Is this normal? Yikes, feel ripped off.
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Old 07-13-2011, 07:38 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfWhit View Post
We just bought our 2001 Land Yatch XL355 and half way to our first destination (which was only 9 miles away HA) our AC unit pretty much died. It still blew, but the air was not cold at all. Our mechanic just called and said it was going to be $384 to repair some leaking valves and recharge it. Is this normal? Yikes, feel ripped off.
HW,

Noooooo it's not "normal", but poo happens.

Valves..most common schrader valves, (think tire valve stem), on the high and low pressure AC lines, $386 rather steep for two cheep valves and an evac and fill. Also the easiest to condemn when the leak may be hard to find.

Was a sniff(hand held device to detect leaking refrigerant) or dye(black light) test done?

Is the receiver dryer being replaced at the same time?

You really need to ask some questions, and confirm exactly what is leaking, and what "valves" they are replacing. A good shop will welcome the inquiry.

Good luck

Bob
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:13 PM   #22
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Lowered Bill

So the actual bill was only....$277. Yes they put the dye in it and we are to take it back in a week or two. It worked great this weekend. Didn't go to far, nor was it very hot out. So we will see. They guarenteed the work. Now I need help with the toilet. We are going to have the upper mechanism replaced because it doesn't hold water, and we have a linger odor au toilet in the area under the sink that sometimes sneaks out into the living area. What thread do I need to look under to make sure this will be the right repair to do?

Thanks for your help.

Dianne
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:45 PM   #23
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There is a replaceable switch block in this unit which is still available from Chrysler on special order and it contains the push button switches, both for the vacuum lines to the shutters in the plenum and for the electric switch to the compressor and the fan to cool the condenser. Herein lies an engineering issue - the electrical switch to activate the compressor cannot properly carry the extra load of the electric fan, thus causing that block to overheat and the plastic to warp - then nothing works right. We are in the process of replacing this block and adding a headlight relay so that the compressor switch load will be reduced to simply activating the relay. We did find that there was considerable damage to the controls as a result of overheating.
We took apart the heater/ac controls and replaced the pushbutton/switch block with a new one ordered from a Dodge dealer. We added the headlight relay to reduce the electrical load on the compressor switch and the whole system is now operating as it shhould - I've got heat at my feet and cool air from the dash vents. All this hassle and years of getting the runaround for a $100 part! Just in time, too, as I'm now selling the LY.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:22 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
We took apart the heater/ac controls and replaced the pushbutton/switch block with a new one ordered from a Dodge dealer. We added the headlight relay to reduce the electrical load on the compressor switch and the whole system is now operating as it shhould - I've got heat at my feet and cool air from the dash vents. All this hassle and years of getting the runaround for a $100 part! Just in time, too, as I'm now selling the LY.
Relay as part of wiring already in the 2000 model, maybe they added when they stopped
using the push button dash unit.
I found the 30 amp fuse used for the high speed blower motor in a burned out fuse holder in front of the radiator below the heater core area, Loose connection caused heat as 30 amp breaker is still working.
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:24 PM   #25
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I found the 30 amp fuse used for the high speed blower motor in a burned out fuse holder in front of the radiator below the heater core area, Loose connection caused heat as 30 amp breaker is still working.
I had the same problem - it was about 4 or 5 years ago that they found an in-line fuse where even the fuse holder had melted.
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:48 PM   #26
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Where is the low pressure side fitting located for adding freon ?

I have 2000 Land Yacht 30
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