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Old 10-13-2014, 10:15 AM   #21
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2005 30' Classic
2005 30' Land Yacht Gas 30
Near the water , Wa
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 36
Thanks for the information, and thanks for your time sharing your experience!

Robert
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:42 PM   #22
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2004 30' Land Yacht Gas 30
, OH
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 45
as written we reused [never detached] from the hyd actuator. we simply rerouted it to the area of the front left tire well. we extended the threads on threaded shaft originally used for adjustment from the actuator. we treaded as far as possible.
used "CS Hex Die, size: 1/2", thread: 20, part # 3116842, UNF...from Fastenal Company, I think it was less than $10.
The purpose of completely threading the shaft was to give us as much adjustment as possible into the collar [sorry, don't know the tech word] that had been used from the old actuator.

we used a foot operated brake [parking?, emergency? or whatever] from a Ford van
installed the mechanism directly into the metal wall directly left of the driver's left foot.

very secure...lead the cable along the driver door sill and into the wheel well area.

Now comes the hardest part. Building a frame to hold the cable from the cable relay and to hold the new foot brake. Securing both shields and providing adjustment of the cable relay [as mentioned before...a little over 1".

Also, spring tension on the new foot brake cable must be installed to keep sufficient tension to allow release of applied brake. Most folks remember the routine..push to apply the brake..push again to release. [this is where the spring tension is needed...to allow release to happen.]

Building this frame was the challenge. Holding the outside [?better word]of the cable secure to allow the cable to do its function. And generally having one cable move the other cable and still have ability to adjust is the goal.

I am sure there are folks out there that could do a real pro job.....

We did it...it works for us. Foot down.........brake on....Foot down...release...brake off

We tested the release of the brake at the trans brake drum...very scientifically....spun it around by hand...listened...no drag...easy spin..........Okay......then we applied the brake...measuring the travel of the brake drum cable end. A little over an inch.
another very elaborate test...tried to rotate the bell...no way...tight.

Put the driveshaft back on...........then greased the mo ho! easy job up like that.
Road test........our job works. After reading, reading, and reading about all the misery folks have.....our misery is in 2 five gallon pails [heavy] to remind us, the hyd pump, the hyd actuator, a couple of electric harnesses, and some pretty heavy duty nuts and bolts.

If you are reasonably mechanically inclined the only hard part was the building of the frame. Bench tested before installed.


As written, a signal is needed, when time permits.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:01 PM   #23
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2004 30' Land Yacht Gas 30
, OH
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van brake cable

try a photo of van cable
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:45 AM   #24
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2000 31' Excella
Ontario , Canada
Join Date: Feb 2010
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How to post this thread as a sticky?

Excellent thread.

Don't know how to get the attention of the moderator but i think this thread should be a "Sticky"
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