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Old 12-17-2012, 05:30 PM   #1
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How to winterize a LY30

I have a 1998 LY30. I need to know how you get the anti freeze to the water pump. I hzave a manual pump I am using that hooks to the fresh water supply. I don't believe this goes through the water pump. Do I just pour anti freeze in the fill tube and let it go into the fresh water tank and turn the pump on?
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:45 PM   #2
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Are you saying you are hand pumping city water supply? which would be pressured to get into system. Why not just drain system with the valves and blow out with air? If hand pump is on separate system, just pour in tank fill and run pump. If you see antifreeze in the pumped water you will know they aren't separate. Mine has valve that keeps pressured city water from going into tank, but I would say it is the same system and unless you use vodka as antifreeze not a good idea to drink it.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:42 AM   #3
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RV Water Winterizing and Types of RV Anti Freeze

To get the Antifreeze to the pump you will need to get it into the tank and then run the pump. I will asume you will be using an RV Antifreeze.

Here's some info on RV Antifreeze from an article I read and below the article is a link to a site that covers the basics of RV water winterizing.

Types of RV Anti Freeze
from J&M Camper and Marine (J&M Camper Sales | Maine's Camper & RV Dealer)

RV Antifreeze - Not all Antifreezes are Created Equal

RV/Marine non-toxic antifreeze is probably the most misunderstood commodity in our industry today. There are currently three different varieties on the market.

Ethanol (alcohol) based: This type of antifreeze is most readily available in hardware stores and most RV shops it sells for approximately $3.00 - $4.00 a jug. However, this product is also extremely flammable and not to used around any sort of pilot flames or cigarettes. As well, this product has been known to taint certain RV plumbing systems and is only to be used with Quest or Pex plumbing lines. If you have ever used this product you will quickly remember how bad you water smelt and tasted the next spring. Furthermore, because this product is made from alcohol it works to dry out all the rubber seals readily found in your faucets and toilet.

Propylene Glycol based: This product is only available at your local RV shop (and not every RV shop for that matter). It sells for approximately $5.00 - $6.00 a jug. Like the ethanol antifreeze, this product is non-toxic and safe for all RV plumbing. However, propylene glycol does not have the same fire safety warnings, nor the risk of tainting your RV plumbing system. Furthermore, propylene glycol is a lubricant and will actually work to extend the life of the seals in your faucets and toilets, unlike the ethanol based products.

Propylene/Ethanol Blend: Again this product is non-toxic and completely safe for RV plumbing systems. It will cost more than $4.00 - $5.00 a jug. This may seem like a good idea, however, it is unknown how much ethanol is required to taint RV plumbing lines and dry out plumbing seals.


Here is a link to a site that covers the basics of winterizing RV fresh water systems Winterizing RV Fresh Water System
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:59 AM   #4
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To bypass the fresh water tank in order to introduce antifreeze solution into the pump you need to install an RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit. You can buy this on E-Bay or at an RV supply. Go to your search engine, type in "Camco RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit" and get the big picture.

The kit comprises a three-way valve which allows you to by-pass the intake line from the fresh water tank, and draw antifreeze through a short length of tubing directly from a bottle of antifreeze.







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Old 12-18-2012, 08:10 AM   #5
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:13 AM   #6
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The LY has a water drain system built in. No need to buy anything.

Bypass and drain the hot water heater. Empty both holding tanks. I then use the three valves (mine are located under the bed) to drain the fresh water system. Open all faucets to help drain water lines. Once empty I close all valves and faucets, pour in 4 gallons of anti-freeze into the fresh water tank. Use the no pressure inlet and a funnel to pour in the anti-freeze. Turn on the pump and listen for pressure to build. Turn on each faucet until you get a steady stream of anti-freeze. Don't forget the toilet and toilet washer. Turn off water pump and you're done.
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:22 AM   #7
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If you have blown out the lines and emptied your hot water heater, and fresh water tank, and all you want is the assurance that there is no water remaining in the fresh water pump, then you need only to draw some antifreeze into the pump...

Amazon.com: Camco 36543 RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit: Automotive
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:53 AM   #8
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Here is a layout of the fresh water tank, the 3 valves to drain the h/c/fresh lines to the right of C/B panel, the shure flow pump to the left of panel. I drain/blow all lines then attach a short piece of hose to inlet of shureflo pump and other end to container to fill the lines from the antifreeze container. Takes about 4-5 quarts. While I'm at it also remove the pump filter and clean it before pumping in the antifreeze. You may also have an outside valve in your dump area for fresh water to get sand off your feet. This has a check valve in it so be sure to get the water out as well.

Steve
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:14 AM   #9
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I have never winterized by pouring RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank. But do pour in a little clorox after draining.

Do drain all the water you can using the low point drains first. Drain the hot water heater.

To use the hand pump attach the pump to the faucets starting with the one farthest from the water pump. Open another faucet and pump until the pink stuff starts coming out including the shower and toilet.

Make it easy on yourself and get a water pump valve that allows you to use the water pump to pump directly out of the antifreeze bottle.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:26 AM   #10
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I appreciate all of the feed back I have received. This is a great site when help is needed
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