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Old 04-29-2012, 05:18 PM   #1
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Help with a Plumbing Problem…

When dry camping, if I turn on the water pump, water from the fresh water tank is forcefully blown out the exterior city water hose input connection, therefore, the system never pressurizes and the pump continues to run; strange, but true. I’d estimate, 25% of the water pressure from the pump is available to the faucets and 75% exits the motorhome through the city water connection. This is great if your purpose is to water the campground , but undesirable if a shower is the intention.

When hooked-up to city water, all is well; no problems.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated…….
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:26 PM   #2
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Backflow checkvalve is stuck open or missing.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:29 PM   #3
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there should be a check valve somewhere in the fresh water inlet area. That is an automatic valve which allows water to come in from the inlet, but does not allow it go back. A PO may have eliminated it, or the one you have may be stuck so it does not close against back pressure.

As a temporary solution, until you find and repair the check valve, you could find a male hose connection plug, screw it into the water inlet and that will keep it from blowing out water. I don't know the specifics of your rig, so I can't be of more specific help than that at this point.

The square thing with the blue top directly behind the pump motor in your photo is a pressure regulator. I can't follow the pipes very well, but between that and the hose inlet somewhre, there should be a check valve. Sometimes it is even built into the connection directly behind the hose inlet.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba View Post
The square thing with the blue top directly behind the pump motor in your photo is a pressure regulator. I can't follow the pipes very well, but between that and the hose inlet somewhre, there should be a check valve. Sometimes it is even built into the connection directly behind the hose inlet.
Does this close up with some labels help?
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:43 PM   #5
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Follow the pipe that says "from city water" back to the inlet. Somewhere you should find a check valve, which may just look like a piece of metal or plastic pipe, often with an arrow on it pointing to the pressure regulator inlet. It might be right behind the city water inlet. It may be stuck, or missing. Is this a new rig to you? Did this just happen, or do you know any more history?
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:08 PM   #6
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Is this a new rig to you? Did this just happen, or do you know any more history?
We bought "Christine" late November of '11, and just had her maiden voyage 2 weeks ago. At the campground, with city hookup, all worked great! We're planning a 2nd outing, which may entail a 'rest stop' stay or two, so the "dry camping" features would be needed. When checking out the systems today, the flood-gates opened; literally!
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:14 PM   #7
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Again, if you can't find the check valve or get it solved prior to taking it out on your next trip, just get a male hose plug and screw it into the city water inlet, and you will be fine until you have time to find the real problem.
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:23 PM   #8
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This thread is posted in 2 places.
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:39 PM   #9
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This thread is posted in 2 places.
Yes, "Plumbing" & "Land Yacht Motorhomes"; is that wrong?
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Old 04-29-2012, 08:36 PM   #10
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The check valve or as it is also called a one way valve is part of the city water connection. If you have access to the back of this connection from inside great. Otherwise you need to remove the access box and door from the coach to disconnect the line and replace the city water connection. It is possible to repair the valve depending on exactly what is wrong with it. Remove the screen from the inlet and you should see a small white plastic knob and the keeper that holds this valve closed. There will also be a spring between the keeper and the valve. The valve when removed will look just like a small plastic valve similar to a valve for an engine. It will have a small O ring attached to the valve. Many times this O ring comes off or deteriorates over time. If possible reseat the O ring and reinstall the valve. While holding the valve in place from behind place the spring in from the front and with a pair of needle nose pliers reattach the keeper to the valve stem. It does take some force to reattach the valve keeper.
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Old 04-29-2012, 08:45 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
The check valve or as it is also called a one way valve is part of the city water connection. If you have access to the back of this connection from inside great. Otherwise you need to remove the access box and door from the coach to disconnect the line and replace the city water connection. It is possible to repair the valve depending on exactly what is wrong with it. Remove the screen from the inlet and you should see a small white plastic knob and the keeper that holds this valve closed. There will also be a spring between the keeper and the valve. The valve when removed will look just like a small plastic valve similar to a valve for an engine. It will have a small O ring attached to the valve. Many times this O ring comes off or deteriorates over time. If possible reseat the O ring and reinstall the valve. While holding the valve in place from behind place the spring in from the front and with a pair of needle nose pliers reattach the keeper to the valve stem. It does take some force to reattach the valve keeper.
This is great information, thank you. First thing tomorrow, I'm on it!
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:09 PM   #12
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Not wrong. It's just that some of us are helping on one thread while others are on the opposite thread. Lots of duplications.
But the most important thing is the problem gets solved.
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:27 AM   #13
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This is a GREAT morning!

As it turned out, there was a very small piece of what was most likely a screen washer that was caught back inside the check valve at the City Water connection. After removing it, all worked as it should; system pressurized, pump shut off, no water being shot out the hose input and NO LEAKS.

You folks are great, Thank You!
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:36 AM   #14
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Rag,

Congratulations on the resolution of your issue!
The knowledge contributed by the Forum Members is amazing.

Daniel
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:59 AM   #15
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Rag,
The knowledge contributed by the Forum Members is amazing.
Daniel
cesalie2,

Yes, you're so right. It validates the quote, "None of Us are as Smart as All of Us".
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:13 PM   #16
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Glad to see it was easily solved.

If you had capped the city water inlet, that may not have solved the problem. Our trailer has a vent hole next to the inlet to make sure you do not overfill the tank (that is a very bad thing as the tank can expand and break things) and to allow air to escape as the tank is filled. If the inlet is capped, water would come out the vent.

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Old 04-30-2012, 01:41 PM   #17
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Glad to see it was easily solved.
If you had capped the city water inlet, that may not have solved the problem. Our trailer has a vent hole next to the inlet to make sure you do not overfill the tank (that is a very bad thing as the tank can expand and break things) and to allow air to escape as the tank is filled. If the inlet is capped, water would come out the vent.
Gene
Gene,

Yeah, it was a real nice moment when the system fired up and behaved well this morning.

The vent on our moho is for the tank and that's not a pressurized fill system. The problem was the pump was forcing water back through the city water connection; see attached photo. Had I plugged the city water connection, it wouldn't have affected the fresh water tank or vent, but I sure like a lot better this way, the right way.

Thanks for your post....
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:36 PM   #18
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RAG, you are right. Not thinking.

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Old 05-01-2012, 04:34 PM   #19
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A couple of years ago (when I had a 34-ft LY diesel moho) I had the same thing happen. At the street water entry there is a check valve. Unfortunately, AS used an all-in-one assembly which is almost impossible to get. However, I was able to get a street water inlet with a checkvalve that just had an aluminum flange. Using a Dremel tool with a variety of cut-off grinding wheels and bits, I removed the street water portion and substituted the one wiith the aluminum flange (had to trim the flange, again using the Dremel tool, to fit so that the plastic door would close). Some of the fittings to the inside this street water inlet may have to be modified. In my case, a flexible hose for a faucet had the right ends - the hose was covered with woven stainless steel, so I was confident it would withstand the street pressure.

As a temporary fix you could screw the plastic plug into the street water fitting.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:47 PM   #20
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As a temporary fix you could screw the plastic plug into the street water fitting.
blkmagikca,

Thanks for the feedback; fortunately I was able to correct the problem by removing a small piece of a screen washer that was caught in the check valve.

I originally tried screwing in the plastic plug, but the pressure from the pump was so strong it blew the cap off; now that's a PUMP!
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