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Old 06-28-2013, 09:54 AM   #1
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Belleville , Michigan
Join Date: Jun 2013
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Fuel gauge not working..help

I was wondering if you guys have any advise on my current fuel gage problem?
History: my LY was sitting for roughly 5 years when i recived it..it wouldnt start so long story short i had the fuel pump replaced, at that time prior i couldnt tell if the guage was working or not i assumed it was just out of gas. I made an acsess to the tank from under the rear bed area. The shop replaced the pump and it started right up.
When i asked the shop about fuel level they didnt notice, they did say they tested the wires prior to changing the pump and power was working.
so when i put the key in ignition the guage goes from just above E to E...so it goes down when key is turned. when i remove the key the guage moves up slightly.
The other day I went and filled the tank hopeing it was empty and by filling it the guage would be fine, I was only able to put in 30 plus gallons and the guage remains the same.
What can i check for to solve this?
can i have such a problem with a new fuel pump? could there be a bad float or something?
now that i have the acsess its pretty easy to get at the tank?
any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:10 AM   #2
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1977 23' Safari
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I'm not familiar with MoHo fuel gauges, but I've got lots of experience with Classic cars.

Since the gauge moves slightly when you turn on the key there is power to the gauge and sending unit, but one or both are not working.

A common problem with fuel gauge sending units is poor connections. This is particularly problematic for vehicle which sit a lot, as the fuel turns to varnish it leave a sticky coating on the sending unit which interrupts the signal. I've read online on Mustang forums and personally found that Chevron Techron fuel treatment works well. 05-07 Mustangs have this problem and a periodic use of techron seems to keep my car's gauge working.

The float may have sunk, in which case you would need to replace it. If you remove the sending unit, you can test the float for buoyance in a pail - be very careful, fuel is flammable!
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:42 AM   #3
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1992 33' Land Yacht
Evans , West Virginia
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You may want to check the grounding of the gas tank
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:48 AM   #4
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Belleville , Michigan
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Thanks guys.....update....well I decided to go in and double check the newly installed fuel pump this weekend and low and behold!!! they changed the fuel pump, but not the sending unit!! the sending unit didnt even have the float on it!!...why on earth would you put the sending unit back in without the float? and it actually looks like they may have broke it...grrrrrrr
needless to say im heading up there today to clash some heads....guess you cant fix stupid
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:13 PM   #5
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
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Could you tell us a little (with pics) about how you created the access area to your fuel pump? My gauge is a little erratic between full and half-full so I'm thinking about how to change out the gauge without dropping the tank. My 92 36' LY has a queen bed in the rear that also houses the fresh water tank, so any pics on how you obtained access would help greatly.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:47 AM   #6
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1992 36' Land Yacht
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yes i will post some picture's today for you.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:09 AM   #7
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Belleville , Michigan
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The last picture showing top view of acsess area is looking twards the front. When making the hole i used a circular saw set at 1/2" to make the first cut. then remove plywood layer. under that is 1" insulation which needs to be cut out. you can also either use circular saw or utility knife. there is a metal cross brace which needs to be cut out in order to remove the sending unit, i used a sawa all for that. once that is taken out you have a thin Tin layer to cut out finally.
to make things easy and create room I took the bed drawer out, took end plate of bed off and removed the cross brace which is about 1' back from end of bed and over the end of water tank.
you need to have your opening start just past the air duct running along the foot of bed compartment as seen in picture.
For the metal cross brace I basically put it back in place and used some angle iron with self tappers to reinstall.
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