Front TV Replacement

[BarnacleBill]

Originally Posted by porourke

Well Everybody I got the shroud that holds the tv in off but to get it all the way off and let it hang by the cable that feeds the switches on the left hand side I had to remove 4 screws out of 8 that hold the instrument panel part of the dash out so I could lift the right side of the panel up just enough to get the tab part of the tv shroud out from underneath it. Had to do the same thing to the glove...

To make a long story short I still need help in getting to the blower and relays!
Do I have to remove the left side of the dash to get to it?

I thought I'd share my experience in the TV area of the dash board. First I am wondering what chassis your coach is built on. The reason I ask is that ours is on a Ford chassis and the fan is not in the dash area but in front of the firewall and accessible through the front hatch where the radiator and starting battery live. In other words we don't have to remove anything from the inside of the coach to access the fan motor.

We replaced the CRT (Tube) type TV with a Sony 24" flat screen. I built some shelves that fit in the space where the old TV lived and the shelves hold our Satellite receiver, DVD recorder-player and the Xbox. I hope I am attaching a picture.

[porourke]

Ours is on a Chevy p30 chasie. I dont intend to redo our tv setup. We never use the one thats there. What I am trying to find out from any of the menbers that might know Is on my 1993 Land Yacht MH is were the high speed fan relay for the dash AC is located and what do I have to do to acess it.

Thanks - Pat

PS. Your mod looks good! I saved it to the HD so We could blow it up and take a closer look.

[pacer]

I have a 1996 Land Yacht. Made the conversion from the old tube type to a new flat screen.

First try and figure what and where any bolts and screws that are holding the TV in place. I was able to find all except one. The TV wigged but wouldn't come out. Finally I decided to just pry it apart since I was not going to keep the old set any way. Turned out to be a bolt through the chassis that had its head covered by insulating material (typical Air Stream construction).

Then the fun part, shopping for one that would fit. This turned out to be one of the "lucky" projects! Found one that fit like a glove and was a 20 inch. Shopped Ebay fo new audio and S video cables and ran them because I like an excellent picture.

Fabricated two small brackets to hold the TV in the original hole.

Picture enclosed. Good luck

[LaMesaDave]

Pacer: Nice work. I have a 95 and want to do the same. Is that a 110V TV? Do you know the model number?

Thanks,
Dave

[BarnacleBill]

On my '95 the TV is a Sony Model No. KVL S23A10, it's a 2005, so probably not on the market any more.

[pacer]

Dave,

It's a Phillips 20PF5120/28. It will run off AC or DC but be careful when purchasing a DC TV. Make sure that it will run off 12 VDC. Most require somewhat more voltage. This Phillips requires 16 VDC.

I use the AC converter either on AC when available or via the inverter when dry camping. The TV and satallite receiver will work for around 4 hours on fully charged house batteries.

Doubt if you can get this same model as it was discontinued. No digital tuner. I use mine with Dish Network and their receiver provides digital input so no problem.

Good luck.

[porourke]

Originally Posted by porourke

Ours is on a Chevy p30 chasie. I dont intend to redo our tv setup. We never use the one thats there. What I am trying to find out from any of the menbers that might know Is on my 1993 Land Yacht MH is were the high speed fan relay for the dash AC is located and what do I have to do to acess it.

Thanks - Pat

PS. Your mod looks good! I saved it to the HD so We could blow it up and take a closer look.

Well its been a good while and its working OK! The Hi Seed fan relay is behind the drivers side dash be hind the instrument panel. I am almost 70 years old. Too old to stand on my head to get to it so I disconnected the Battery and pulled the dash panel off. The relay was there hanging by the wire harness it was plugged into. Removed it and pried the cap off of it and the Normally open ones contacts, the ones that feed the motor in hi speed were cooked. replaced it and left the cover off so I could see how much arc I got when I turned it off or changed speeds and it was a bunch! This was the third time I have had this same problem since we have had it but had other people work on it because I didn't have time. The arcing is coming from the back- emf spike the motor generates when you try to break the contacts feeding it. To eliminate it I put a 1n4007 diode hooked up backwards across the motor leads right at the motor. Now when you open the contacts and the field on the motor starts to collapse the voltage polarity on the motor leads reverses, the diode conducts and shorts the arc out to ground. No arcing on the contacts this way. I also lengthened the wires and moved the relay and the speed resistor block out from behind the dash and mounted everything on the metal partition just to the left of the TV. Easy to get to ___

Not trying to toot my horn just hope this will might keep someone from going through what I had to!


Thanks A Bunch -