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ppillard · 02-02-2008, 06:41 PM

Hello all,

My first post! I run a 1996 30' Land Yacht, and she has served me very well! I've done a bit of searching on this subject, but haven't found any good data on my problem:

How do I remove the front Television without destroying the mounting box it sits in? Figured I would ask you guys before I start doing some exploratory surgery.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Pillard

ppillard · 02-04-2008, 12:02 PM

ttt...Por favor!

Santart · 02-04-2008, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ppillard

Hello all,

My first post! I run a 1996 30' Land Yacht, and she has served me very well! I've done a bit of searching on this subject, but haven't found any good data on my problem:

How do I remove the front Television without destroying the mounting box it sits in? Figured I would ask you guys before I start doing some exploratory surgery.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Pillard

Mine is a 2000. If it is the same setup, pop the plastic caps off the screw washers, remove the four screws, and the frame comes off. The only thing holding the set in if I remember correctly, is a metal angle iron on the bottom. A slight lift and it goes over the block and slides out. The power cord plugs in under the panel below the passenger seat whuch is also held in by screws.
Frank

geodrake · 05-29-2008, 04:53 PM

Mine is a 1992 34ft Legacy and a bit different, but here is what i just under took.

I had a 14-16? inch picture tube type of tv and realized that with HDTV I had to change. My delima was how do you put a LCD flat screen in a hole cut for the picture tube set. I ended up with a oak panel matching the cabinets in the MH which I mounted in the hole (kind of like a drive in theater screen) and used a wall mount bracket for the LCD set. Worked great and looks great too.

CarlGeo · 05-30-2008, 07:46 PM

geodrake

I have a 92 AS LY and have been thinking about how to replace my tube TV with a flat screen unit. I would really like to see photos of your change-out. I am thinking what you did is really a good solution.

CarlGeo

gunworks · 08-20-2008, 05:23 PM

I have a '95 LY and this was my solution. It is mounted to a board and then screwed to the oak console. Fits the hole perfectly in back. This is an Emerson 20" LCD with built in DVD player. Very Happy with results. I used the hole to mount a Xantrex Prosine 2.0 charger/inverter.

blkmagikca · 10-11-2008, 07:55 PM

I like this. I was originally thinking of mounting an LCD TV using a wall mount just above the ice maker behind the co-pilot's seat, but this is a much cleaner install. Thanks for sharing.

gunworks · 10-12-2008, 07:20 PM

Ice maker! What? All I got was an empty oak cabinet which is used to store the dog food. Considering the thin interior walls, I'm thinking a wall mount might not have been a good solution for me, especially since most of mine have rotted due to moisture from around poorly maintained windows. Windows have been re-caulked but the damage was done years ago. If you mount TV to the spacer board, you might want to add a lip to the bottom front (towards the hole) of the board to act as a stabilizer to prevent it from rocking rearward. this keeps it locked in the hole and screws anchoring it to the oak console are not necessary unless you are planning some rubber burning acceleration.

Planning a bedroom wall mount to replace the rear TV, but I will build a special support system and it is only a 15" unit.

blkmagikca · 10-14-2008, 02:16 PM

Right now the bedroom original TV works fine - small, crappy, but fine. The front one is not working, probably due to the fact that the diesel shop had taken the dash apart fixing some previous owners' undocumented wiring. As well, the dash air/heater fan wasn't working (the inline fuse holder had melted!!). I keep finding these little gems - like the one where the ground and neutral were reversed (a previous owner didn't know how to wire in the GFI circuit breaker).

The latest was the alternator quitting and having to be replaced. It took 3 remans till one worked (thankfully a Delco). The isolator was also toast - that got changed too.

The big one was replacing all 7 tires (after getting a blowout on the way to International Rally at Bozeman) this past June. Fortunately, the insurance covered the repairs to the side which got blown out, so it *only* cost me $2,000 for 7 tires. I've become evangelical about telling people to check the manufacturing date on all tires, and replace them once they are 5 years old from date of manufacture no matter if they have only a few miles on them - the casing rot out.

gunworks · 10-14-2008, 09:14 PM

Don't know if you are a fan of this procedure or not, but I had my local GM dealership fill my tires with Nitrogen. It seems to have done amazingly well so far and I am not constantly filling tires at every other stop. They are holding constant pressure as I check them often. Maybe it's a scam but I also have this on my work van for past year and same thing, constant pressure and no filling every few months. Would like to hear others comments on this idea. Seems to be working for me.

blkmagikca · 10-15-2008, 08:30 PM

I had this done several years ago when I bought tires at Costco for our Mazda 323. I didn't do this for the LY, as the tires have the sand packs in them for dynamic balancing *and* the installing tire dealer didn't have nitrogen. I did buy and install the Pressure Pro system, and I highly recommend it. The sensors replace the valve caps on the tires and transmit (wirelessly) the tire pressure. The panel inside shows the exact pressure readout for each tire. There is also an alarm system built in which will start an annoying beep if the pressure goes up by 15% or down by 10% from the baseline pressures which are set on a tire by tire basis. I got this at Bozeman (obviously after I had had the blowout). Currently I have the panel attached to the wall at the passenger side, but I'm planning on moving this over to the driver's side, on the door, just below the window near the door hinge. It needs 12-volts, and I can draw that from the red wire that supplies +12vDC to the power window.

scotta · 11-17-2008, 06:51 PM

Did you have to use inverter? How did you hook it up. I recall the TV has an different type of pug. Is that why you used the inverter. I would like to replace my TV also but have not done so yet because the plug is different. I hope I am making some sense.

gunworks · 11-24-2008, 07:23 AM

I tied the inverter into circuit four and five ( maybe it was five and six, it's been a few months) at the junction box on the front firewall. That will give you 120V at most all of the plug-ins throughout the coach, including the one behind the passenger front floor vent. The TV plugs into that outlet same as the old one. I am not aware of any other way to get 120 V to the front dash area other than running the generator.

scotta · 12-20-2008, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geodrake

Mine is a 1992 34ft Legacy and a bit different, but here is what i just under took.

I had a 14-16? inch picture tube type of tv and realized that with HDTV I had to change. My delima was how do you put a LCD flat screen in a hole cut for the picture tube set. I ended up with a oak panel matching the cabinets in the MH which I mounted in the hole (kind of like a drive in theater screen) and used a wall mount bracket for the LCD set. Worked great and looks great too.

How did mount the pannel in the whole. I am concerned that the molded plastic may not support the weight of TV mounted on the plywood?

Aage · 12-21-2008, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunworks

I have a '95 LY and this was my solution. It is mounted to a board and then screwed to the oak console. Fits the hole perfectly in back. This is an Emerson 20" LCD with built in DVD player. Very Happy with results. I used the hole to mount a Xantrex Prosine 2.0 charger/inverter.

If I understand the photo properly, you have a TV mounted between the front seats of moho.

Now, I'm no lawyer or law enforcement person (nor do I play one on TV), but I believe that up here in Canada at least, it's illegal to have a TV in a spot where it can be viewed by the driver. Why they insist on that I have NO idea.

Your mileage may vary...

reday · 12-21-2008, 06:23 PM

Airstream's wiring on Motor Homes is such that the TV will not work while underway. So, you can look at it if you want, but nothing will be on...

Aage · 12-21-2008, 08:55 PM

Well, that'll do it! Um, for most people...

gloran · 12-23-2008, 08:07 PM

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When I removed the 13" tube television, the largest unit that would fit into the opening and still look factory was a 15". This was on a 1993 LY MH, 33' I had a new trim ring made for the TV to fit into. The old television power source was right inside the TV compartment and plugged into the AC adapter. I've included 2 pictures of the finished product.

reday · 12-23-2008, 08:22 PM

Very nice work!

scotta · 12-23-2008, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gloran

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When I removed the 13" tube television, the largest unit that would fit into the opening and still look factory was a 15". This was on a 1993 LY MH, 33' I had a new trim ring made for the TV to fit into. The old television power source was right inside the TV compartment and plugged into the AC adapter. I've included 2 pictures of the finished product.

Looks great . I don't think mine will wind up looking as clean as your set up . I am going with a 19" wide screen with a built in DVD player. It will run from the left edge of the original opening to the far right edge where you have your CB. So it fits the area fine but won't be flush with the edge of the opening because of the need to access the DVD player. I will post pics when it is done.