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Old 04-25-2015, 07:05 PM   #1
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1998 31' Land Yacht
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front overhead cabinet

Anyone ever pull their overhead cabinet? I could use a tip on getting it out. I have both sides off, visors speakers & liner under the cabinet off. Thanks
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:47 PM   #2
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Like the guy at the auto parts store asks , "Year , Make & Model".

OK so it's a '98 31' Land Yacht. What trim level ? A picture would really help here.

This will get you the right answer.

Over the years AS front overhead cabinets have been anything from none to molded into the front end cap.
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:10 AM   #3
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Smile

So here's a photo, if I did it right. Umm..Glenritas? I'm posted in MoHomes, so I don't think the rest applies. I believe your thinking of trailers. Thanks Gary
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:18 AM   #4
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DOH ! That's what happens when one uses the recent posts page , one misses where the post came from

Anyway I hope you figure out how to get it out.
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Old 04-27-2015, 05:03 PM   #5
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That's ok. You prompted me to use the picture. I learn something everyday! ( I hope!)
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:45 AM   #6
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This is not a helpful reply, just curious as to why you are taking the cabinets down!
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:39 PM   #7
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water leaked in that area on prior owner. I'm making a new liner under the cabinet,I want to clean out the area seal it & treat & paint the metal. I may have to pull down the headliner to pull them.
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Old 04-29-2015, 06:47 PM   #8
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Thank you and good luck with your project. Post pictures if you like, I'm sure you aren't the only one dealing with PO neglect!
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:44 AM   #9
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Really? No one has taken down the front cabinet in their LY MoHo?
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:46 AM   #10
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I have had my liner out before and don't recall that that would aid in removing the cabinets. I haven't tried removing the front overheads but I'm thinking there is a metal boxed frame with the Oak front fascia attached. Did the bottom panel come down with just removing the bottom screws?
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:19 PM   #11
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Yeah I removed the visors, map lite & the bottom vynal . there is a metal (rusty) sheet metal 1/4" thick under the cabinet Above the metal & behind the cabinet there is pink insulation. There were 4 wood screws inside each of the 2 cabinets. Something is holding them in. I'm almost afraid to see behind them.
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:39 PM   #12
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, OH
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I took everything down I'll compose the order in which I did it and probably send pictures. Took about an hour and a half. Was able to put everything back in perfect order. Did replace the horizontal Decorative panel. This was on a 2003. 30 foot land yacht motorhome.

pff


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Old 05-04-2015, 05:12 PM   #13
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Just a quick note. We have two decorative sides that must be removed to remove the cabinet. Sorry I forgot you did not mention taking down the curtains. They must be removed. The metal curtain rods must be removed also. You mentioned loosening the wooden cabinets. We have two speakers that must be removed also. I will have to check my notes but I as I recall something had to be removed that supported one of the cabinets on the passenger side. This was to be able to shift the cabinet in order to get one and out and remove the entire cabinet. I'll have to get my notes sorry can't remember. pff


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Old 05-05-2015, 08:23 AM   #14
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thanks loreepeter I look forward it. Both sides & all post trim is off.
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:10 PM   #15
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Remove curtains and entire curtain tracks and any brackets.
Remove speakers.
Remove cabinet doors, hinges. [reduce weight]
Remove windshield visors complete with brackets
Remove center lighting fixture and seal hot wire end.
Remove driver and pass side decorative boxes above side windows.

Remove headliner, for want of a better term….the part seen when looking up to the bottom of cabinet. This is constructed of thin luan with foam / vinyl glued to cover one side and folded over about 2” on the other side. Very careful to remove as this is needed for a pattern to replace.

Remove 4 screws securing entire cabinet.

Return to passenger side area where decorative box was removed.

As best as I can remember removal of the wood support base on the passenger side area is required to swing the entire cabinet out and remove completely.

There is a metal strip on the cabinet that holds the ceiling panel up and forces it to stay in the ceiling strip. Much care when tapping final insert into ceiling strip to finish a neat reinstall later.

With the cabinet down and out of the way, examination of entire area is possible. DOT lights can be observed from inside. Our lights were perfectly sealed. The pink insulation was dry as a bone...A wooden yard stick was used to hold insulation up…any thing to keep it up and out of the way to inspect. Two major leaks detected at each side above steel frame. Steel frame was cleaned and painted. A third, but insidious leak was found after running water down the roof over the window. The leak came in between the fiberglass roof and the metal framing. The running water was started at driver side and slowly advancing toward the pass side.

The two major leaks found were at each corner where the side wall, the ceiling section and the front fiberglass section meet.

This is the most common area where 3 sections endure the forces of movement and must be held strong and sealed properly.

Our biggest problem was to identify the source of a leak. The metal frame carried water from one side to the other side before falling. Often the center box frame held water was dropped directly in the middle. The leveling of the mo ho always played a role where the water fell. This is one of the most difficult obstacles to find the actual point of entry. With the entire cabinet removed it was possible to study the paths water would take. Liquid nails was used to seal the inside areas of leaks and the outside was studied and studied to pin point any paths the leaking water could take to get to the point of entry.

Some original cover strips were removed and a special tape was applied in its place. Additionally liquid nails was applied to the metal frame box about 6 inches from each side to create a type of dam so that if a future leak happened it would show on that side and not travel to the center and drop there or somehow get to the opposite side and drop there. The dams stopped the guess work. We were able to focus on any new or missed leaks and correct them.

Cost prohibitive identical material to replace the headliner we used luan and painted it off white color similar to the original color.

We made a new headliner using the old luan/vinyl covered piece.
All screws were replaced with identical specs.

Have some pictures….will try to post.

pff
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:35 PM   #16
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Thanks for your help. I feel the metal strip your talking about thru the speaker holes. The 4 screws inside were removed. I will get more aggressive & get them out. My area is going to need extensive work. I'm amazed they built this body style for 12-15 yrs & never did better. I guess that's why they got out. but I'm determined to repair it. I look forward to your pics, thanks again Gary
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:15 AM   #17
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Yes, thank you for that excellent post. Hopefully we will not have to ever do all that, but it is great to have the info available.
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:33 PM   #18
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Is there a shortcut to the specific leak point? Would be worth trying before ripping out all added structures. Now knowing leaked water travels from sides to middle or other side, marker lights can be accessed and sealed from outside. It is mainly the location where the aluminum strip covers the joint at roof to wall near the front.
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:13 PM   #19
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Dave it only took an hour to remove everything except the cabinet. The metal behind the cabinet is rusty so since I'm this far I want to expose the rest of the framework so I can treat & seal the metal & repair the leaks & do whatever I can to the inside of the cap.
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:25 PM   #20
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cabinets removed

Pretty much went as described by loreepeeter. Didn't realize headliner had to be removed. Some of the cabinet was rotted so I'll be redoing all of that. The main thing is now I can see the construction joints And repair them. I will also remove rust, paint & strengthen the metal & reinsulate the cap. Here's some pics.
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