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Old 05-07-2015, 05:10 PM   #15
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, OH
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Remove curtains and entire curtain tracks and any brackets.
Remove speakers.
Remove cabinet doors, hinges. [reduce weight]
Remove windshield visors complete with brackets
Remove center lighting fixture and seal hot wire end.
Remove driver and pass side decorative boxes above side windows.

Remove headliner, for want of a better term….the part seen when looking up to the bottom of cabinet. This is constructed of thin luan with foam / vinyl glued to cover one side and folded over about 2” on the other side. Very careful to remove as this is needed for a pattern to replace.

Remove 4 screws securing entire cabinet.

Return to passenger side area where decorative box was removed.

As best as I can remember removal of the wood support base on the passenger side area is required to swing the entire cabinet out and remove completely.

There is a metal strip on the cabinet that holds the ceiling panel up and forces it to stay in the ceiling strip. Much care when tapping final insert into ceiling strip to finish a neat reinstall later.

With the cabinet down and out of the way, examination of entire area is possible. DOT lights can be observed from inside. Our lights were perfectly sealed. The pink insulation was dry as a bone...A wooden yard stick was used to hold insulation up…any thing to keep it up and out of the way to inspect. Two major leaks detected at each side above steel frame. Steel frame was cleaned and painted. A third, but insidious leak was found after running water down the roof over the window. The leak came in between the fiberglass roof and the metal framing. The running water was started at driver side and slowly advancing toward the pass side.

The two major leaks found were at each corner where the side wall, the ceiling section and the front fiberglass section meet.

This is the most common area where 3 sections endure the forces of movement and must be held strong and sealed properly.

Our biggest problem was to identify the source of a leak. The metal frame carried water from one side to the other side before falling. Often the center box frame held water was dropped directly in the middle. The leveling of the mo ho always played a role where the water fell. This is one of the most difficult obstacles to find the actual point of entry. With the entire cabinet removed it was possible to study the paths water would take. Liquid nails was used to seal the inside areas of leaks and the outside was studied and studied to pin point any paths the leaking water could take to get to the point of entry.

Some original cover strips were removed and a special tape was applied in its place. Additionally liquid nails was applied to the metal frame box about 6 inches from each side to create a type of dam so that if a future leak happened it would show on that side and not travel to the center and drop there or somehow get to the opposite side and drop there. The dams stopped the guess work. We were able to focus on any new or missed leaks and correct them.

Cost prohibitive identical material to replace the headliner we used luan and painted it off white color similar to the original color.

We made a new headliner using the old luan/vinyl covered piece.
All screws were replaced with identical specs.

Have some pictures….will try to post.

pff
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Old 05-07-2015, 11:35 PM   #16
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Thanks for your help. I feel the metal strip your talking about thru the speaker holes. The 4 screws inside were removed. I will get more aggressive & get them out. My area is going to need extensive work. I'm amazed they built this body style for 12-15 yrs & never did better. I guess that's why they got out. but I'm determined to repair it. I look forward to your pics, thanks again Gary
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:15 AM   #17
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Yes, thank you for that excellent post. Hopefully we will not have to ever do all that, but it is great to have the info available.
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:33 PM   #18
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Is there a shortcut to the specific leak point? Would be worth trying before ripping out all added structures. Now knowing leaked water travels from sides to middle or other side, marker lights can be accessed and sealed from outside. It is mainly the location where the aluminum strip covers the joint at roof to wall near the front.
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:13 PM   #19
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Dave it only took an hour to remove everything except the cabinet. The metal behind the cabinet is rusty so since I'm this far I want to expose the rest of the framework so I can treat & seal the metal & repair the leaks & do whatever I can to the inside of the cap.
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Old 05-13-2015, 10:25 PM   #20
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cabinets removed

Pretty much went as described by loreepeeter. Didn't realize headliner had to be removed. Some of the cabinet was rotted so I'll be redoing all of that. The main thing is now I can see the construction joints And repair them. I will also remove rust, paint & strengthen the metal & reinsulate the cap. Here's some pics.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:21 PM   #21
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try for some pics of cabinet removal and leak info

pff
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:23 PM   #22
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maybe more...hope

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Old 05-22-2015, 08:51 AM   #23
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another try

pff
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Old 05-22-2015, 11:27 AM   #24
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looks like 8 have been posted...maybe...hard for me to do..LOL



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Old 05-22-2015, 12:29 PM   #25
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so far so good.........trying for more pics
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:44 PM   #26
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getting somewhere now

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Old 05-22-2015, 06:13 PM   #27
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on the eighth and ninth picture notice the water running down the windshield.
this very narrow path allowed us to rule out any area for no leaks, but it caught a couple of small leaks which were easy to fix from the inside.
repeating: these small leaks would pond on the steel frame work and decide to fall anywhere from side to side or directly in the middle. it was great to stop this riddle.
pff
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Old 05-23-2015, 10:31 PM   #28
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sealing windshield & Pass side transistion

Here are some pics of the repair so far. Cut & scrape out Windshield caulking- looks like glass has been out & not refit very well. Larger gaps on driver side. Recaulk w/better sealant. Pass transition where cap side & windshield meet was a leak. Removed trim cleaned out caulk. Glue sidewall w/gorilla glue, clamp w/board & spring loaded curtain rod. By the way cleaned all areas w/acetone. Caulked w/lap sealant, used butyl tape on trim & reinstalled. Caulked trim w/lap sealant.
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