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Old 10-31-2012, 07:07 AM   #1
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Henrietta , New York
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Fiberglass roof

Can someone tell me what year they switched over the roof to Fiberglass on the 30' Land Yacht? It looks like maybe 2000+?

Also, am I misplacing my confidence in that this is superior to rubber roofing? I know it has a lot of holes in it from AC's, sky lights, vents, etc. but the fiberglass works pretty well on my boat keeping the water on the other side.

jh
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:47 AM   #2
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My 92 36' LY has a fiberglass roof.
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:54 AM   #3
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My '95 has a fiberglass roof. We have fixed some cracks and holes with Dicor, works great! Dicor Corporation | The Dicor Corporation | Official Website
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:10 AM   #4
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The big Achilles heel with the LY roofs is not so much the penetrations as it is the ends and sides. The seams along each end cap and the long seams along the corner rounds are the most common leakage points. The roof material may not leak but these areas, if not maintained properly, are sure to give you trouble. I used Eternabond tape along all the seams. Working well so far.
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:00 PM   #5
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1992 33' Land Yacht
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What would I use to fix a hole on the fiberglass roof? Someone mounted a carryall on the rear roof and I plan on removing it.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:19 PM   #6
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1992 36' Land Yacht
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Fiberglass mat and resin would seem to be the best idea. I'd treat it the same way as a fiberglass car. Scuff the area, cut mat to size, soak in resin with hardener and press into place. Brush the area with more resin/hardener. Maybe others can chime in.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:18 PM   #7
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1995 31' Land Yacht
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I removed a rooftop carrier also. My roof has a rubberized coating on it which I assume is a Dicor product. The carrier was lag-bolted into the plywood underlayment, leaving holes in the plywood. I filled the holes (8 of 'em) with 3M 5200 from West Marine with enough to trowel smooth. Great stuff. Next the plan is to cover the filled holes with Eternabond tape as soon as I get a dry day here in western WA.
The roof appears to be very similar to a cored deck on a boat, that is plywood sandwiched between 2 layers of fiberglas. If there is any sign of water intrusion into the plywood core, be sure to dry it as best you can, otherwise slow rot will ensue. On a boat with a cored deck if rot is found it's important to remove as much of the rotted core as you can with a bent nail in a slow turning drill. Then prepare a 2 part epoxy resin mix with filler to thicken it up (almost like warm peanut butter) and fill the cavity with it. After that you can lay down your matte cloth saturated with resin as 92landyacht suggested. I had to re-bed all the lifeline stanchions on the deck of my boat last year. Didn't find any rot, but some dampness in the core. A heat gun judiciously used will help dry the core.
Hope this helps!

Dave
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:53 AM   #8
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Dave, good to see another boater here. We use a lot of our experience from our CT41 on our Land Yacht.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:05 PM   #9
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I think from the very beginning (1990 I think) when the first figberglas MH were produced the roofs have always been fiberglas. The first designs were made as 92LY described, then they changed to the one piece wrap around to the side gutters with the same one piece front and end caps in 1996 or 1997 models. Most high end coaches are still made that way.
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