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Old 01-08-2013, 02:43 PM   #1
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1950 22' Liner
2004 30' Land Yacht 30 SL
St Petersburg , Florida
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Electric Window Issue

I have a 2004 Land Yacht Motor Home 30' SO...the drivers door electric window is not working. I checked the fuse and its good. Previously the window would stick after the unit would sit for awhile...all I had to do is kinda push the window down while holding the down button and it would start to work ok for a while...I guess I should have lubed the track to keep it from sticking but I always forgot. Now...the motor doesn't work when I push the switch up or down. Any suggestions? I started to take the interior door panel off to get inside and see what's going on in there but...underneath the panel is the metal door skin with only a hole for the wires to go through so there's nothing to see there unless I remove the interior door skin...hoping I won't have to do that so any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated.


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Old 01-08-2013, 06:58 PM   #2
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1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Franklin NC , North Carolina
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Power window

I don't know if this will help, but read this and give it a try.
Electric window motors have a tendency to get stuck in automobiles because the button has been held in up or down position after the glass has reached it's destination. This causes a flat or non responsive spot in the motor windings.
Try This: With your finger on the button in the opposite direction of where the window is; SLAM the door. If it resumes normal operation, it's the same as a car and the flat spot has moved.
Worth a try at no cost

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Old 01-09-2013, 12:18 AM   #3
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Although not familiar with motorhomes I've worked on many automotive power windows, often the switch itself can go bad, do all the other windows work from the master switch ? If not then the switch or power feed is a likely suspect. If all other windows work, still suspect the switch as the drivers window and switch are generally most often used. You can find a wiring diagram and attempt to bypass the switch for the final diagnosis, just short the correct wires on the backside of the switch and see if the motor operates, if the motor does work then the switch is probably bad and should be replaced or if you're really broke/bold you can carefully dis-assemble the switch and clean the contacts of the switch just beware springs and copper tabs will probably spit out and require much work to get all back in place. The true way to confirm a bad motor would be to apply power to the motor from an independent 12v source like a battery and confirm the motor is shot, polarity is not important, it just affects the direction the motor turns. Last, generally you should be able to access the motor after removing the interior door panel although I have run into some saturns that require removal of the OUTER door skin to access the window mechanisms.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:28 AM   #4
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Hi, like the above poster, I have made a living fixing electrical parts on cars. As for power windows, I would first try the window switch while looking at a dome light. If the dome light gets slightly dimmer when you push on the switch, it is most likely a bad motor. If the light only dims in one direction, you have a bad switch. A bad motor will sometimes work if hit with a hammer, but this doesn't fix it, it will still most likely need to be replaced. If you can hear the motor running, but the window doesn't move, it could be stripped gears. If the window regulator looks like an "X" try to get the window all the way in the up position and remove the motor in the door. If you remove the regulator with the motor attached and try to remove the motor from the regulator you can get badly hurt. There is a strong spring that will make this regulator snap like a pair of scissors. This happens when you remove the motor from the regulator. If your window regulator has a tape or cable drive, in most cases, you have to replace the whole thing as a unit. GOOD LUCK.

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Old 01-09-2013, 08:29 AM   #5
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I would use a battery charger for the 12 volt power source to check the system. If there is a problem with the wiring, you could smoke a lot of stuff by using a battery as a power source. And as we all know: When you let the smoke out. Electrical stuff doesn't work any more.
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Old 10-24-2016, 03:20 PM   #6
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2004 30' Land Yacht 30 SL
Surprise , Arizona
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Do remember what worked?

I have the same problem in my 2004 LY 30 SL. I can pull the switch off but the wiring harness diagram is unreadable in my book so I am nervous about putting any voltage on the various switch terminals, I don't want to burn something out. Any ideas?
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Old 10-28-2016, 11:37 PM   #7
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2005 30' Land Yacht 30 SL
Castro Valley , California
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My 2005 window would literally "stick" in the closed position: the weatherstrip glue in the top window track would bleed through and effectively glue the window to the top seal. with some tries, switching back and forth from raise to lower it would break it loose until it "break loose" from the inner door position. I drilled out the rivets on the metal door cover and reglued the glass to the regulator. My other short term fix was to put aluminum foil over the top of the window and then to clean the weatherstrip groove with alcohol to diminish the sticky issue.

Cliff & Andrea,
2 cats, but they stay home
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