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Old 08-04-2014, 09:24 AM   #15
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1997 31' Land Yacht
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That all looks very nice, thanks for sharing. We noticed you also shortened the lambrequin. Good idea! How did you cover the screw hole on the right hand side of the window? Our '97 LY is new to us, we've already done some mods, more to go! So we enjoy seeing what others have done. Thanks again!
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:09 AM   #16
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DaveFL, I really like the LED hood light. Would you share information on what LED you used? That extra light is great.

I sure like the second circuit for feeding the rear A/C. I just installed mine in the Spring, but immediately found it was great for keeping an even temperature front to back.

Sam
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:48 PM   #17
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I sure would have liked the extra circuit as well. Any circuit diagrams available that would help in doing the install myself? I'm assuming it's nothing more then adding a transfer switch between the 20 amp leg and the generator output so that it switches out the genset when plugged into shore power on the 20 amp cord.
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:07 PM   #18
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...er-120210.html

Thats how i did mine. Its worked out real well. So nice to have the option of running the rear air off of shore power. No problem what so ever kerping the cach vety cool.
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:07 PM   #19
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I sure would have liked the extra circuit as well. Any circuit diagrams available that would help in doing the install myself? I'm assuming it's nothing more then adding a transfer switch between the 20 amp leg and the generator output so that it switches out the genset when plugged into shore power on the 20 amp cord.
Circuit diagrams for my unit was for 30 amp service, AS used two 30 amp 120v transfer switches to do what one 50 amp 240v transfer switch can do. I pulled out the two and bought a 50 so I could have genset transfer it's two outputs with one 240v switch matching the new 240 cable coming in to the transfer box. Leaving the tranfer box my new circuit was routed to the line feeding the rear a/c, meaning I could then remove the galley switch and wire them direct to the a/c. that left me with the input wire from the old transfer switch which I used for the outlet in the galley, adding a circuit breaker at the transfer box and using a ground fault duplex. So the two duplexes in the box at the hood are separate 120v circuits.
I used 50 amp 240v cable but will only pull 50 amps off one line, and 20 amps off the other. Set up this way I can plug into 50 amp service or using an adapter, pick up 30 on one and 20 on the other if available. You will do the same by bringing in two lines, some places might object to you plugging in with two wires and the other reason I went this way is to keep it simple and take advantage of 50 amp service when available. Label all wires when you take them off, much easier when installing new stuff.
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:10 AM   #20
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As an aside, the circuitry for the transfer switches, at least in my 2004, is behind a panel to the right of the rear trunk. The panel can be removed with, I think it was, four screws. All the wires were labeled from the factory, so it was easy to see where the wires went.

I just added an option for feeding the rear A/C; I can feed it from the factory 30 amp plug, or from a separate feed from a 20 amp outlet. My solution looks to be about the same as referenced by MAYCO in the link above.

I like Dave's solution better, but I had already gone down my pathway.

Sam
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:42 AM   #21
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DaveFL, I really like the LED hood light. Would you share information on what LED you used? That extra light is great.


Sam
Sorry to take so long to get back but I didn't have the right bulb so I made one from china defective t10 bulb and a good directional disc type. You need a t10 type socket that only has leds on one side, 4-12 soft warm looks better. the socket in the hood needs to be moved from the side to the front and light can shine toward the back just make sure you cover the circuit board on the lamp as the hood is grounded metal, for the disc led I used base of small rx bottle.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:27 AM   #22
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Dave, thanks for the additional information on the hood light.

sam
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:22 AM   #23
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So here's a new question. Still looking (patiently) & have found a couple with most of what I want. What they don't have is auto leveling so the question is how hard is it to find them & install I'm good with mechanical & electrical & hydraulic work so is it cut & weld or bolt in? Any clues as to where to find them? Thanks
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:32 PM   #24
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Auto leveling, early years didn't have auto levelers , they operated by 3 or 4 buttons, only the new units have one button for autoleveling. You will have to look for latter models than 2000.
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:08 AM   #25
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My 2004 doesn't have auto leveling, just separate jack buttons. IMHO, the fully automatic system would be nice, but it is just another computer system subject to failure. To me, the Land Yacht is a great unit because it doesn't have some of the higher tech systems that are subject to failure and expensive to fix. Remember the old KISS principal --"Keep It Simple, Simon".

Sam
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:04 AM   #26
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Our 1997 doesn't have anything in the way of levellers. Fully automatic would be nice, but what we have found is that most campgrounds we have been to have level enough sites, and for those that don't, a couple of boards under the proper wheel/s works just fine. Low tech, but not difficult. It wasn't a deal breaker for us.
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:27 PM   #27
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levelling

I probably misworded my question. What I was referring to was the 4 corner jacks. I looked at a 99 without, most after seem to have them. I will use it around our mountain lakes & want to have it. Working on a deal right now will keep you posted! Gary
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:06 PM   #28
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Those four corner jacks are stabilizers, not levelers. You can't level with those as they are just designed to stabilize an already level trailer.
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