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Old 11-15-2010, 10:35 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by KeithC View Post
I now hook up a air plug to the water supply inlet. I use an air compressor to blow air into the water lines and force the water out. The toilet water supply lines clear when someone presses on the toilet step valve. This allowes air to blow all water out of the toilet water line system.
Thanks, Next project on list will be to rig up hose fitting to air compressor, and test it before cold weather gets here.
Looking at the exposed pipe behind toilet, surprises me that I didn't have blow out this last winter as I did see 32 on the thermometer in the galley.
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:34 AM   #16
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Thanks, Next project on list will be to rig up hose fitting to air compressor, and test it before cold weather gets here.
Looking at the exposed pipe behind toilet, surprises me that I didn't have blow out this last winter as I did see 32 on the thermometer in the galley.
You don't want to a hard connection to the compressor. Use a schrader valve as your connection and give it short bursts of air. This will reduce the chances of bursting a fitting from over pressure and allows the water to settle back at low section of the plumbing awaiting the next blast of air.

If 32 is the lowest your have ever recorded it is unlikely the trailer would have frozen. Freezing requires time and temperature and 32 overnight in a big box is not enough.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:47 AM   #17
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Two other easily missed items in the winterizing side are the rinse hoses on the sink and toilet (if you have them). Also there is on some trailers, an outside water valve that can supply water to a hose (in my Classic it's in the compartment with the city water connection).

Jack
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:29 AM   #18
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Don't forget to blow out the external water pressure connection line as circulating antifreeze with the pump from the main tank will not enter this line as there is a check valve in there. This applies to the Clipper #137 DP and I assume most other units.
Any addons such as ice maker etc, need to be drained.

Are all these tasks a sign Xmas is near??????????????????

Dave
Note:
On my Clipper #137 the plumbing plan/installation included a reverse kitchen option that was used on the smaller Cutter. These lines would also serve the ice maker option. These lines can be seen below/behind the fridge on the Clipper, and the ends are exposed to the weather thru the outside fridge access door. This means that there are PEX lines that are capped and, because of the low runs below the shutoff valve, are not able to be drained, and are subject to freezing if left with no heat.
The shut off valves are included in the cluster of valves at the hot water tank.
Because it is impossible to tell if water is in these lines??? I suggest that when the system in drained, that these valves be opened so they are exposed to the "PINK STUFF FLUSH".
When the pink antifreeze is pushed through the system one can only hope enough would be mixed into the low spots in these lines.
In the spring just close the valves on these orphen lines to clean the system for use.
Also, the washer lines need to be drained, blown out.
THIS WILL ALSO APPLY IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A WASHER.
OPEN THE VALVES AT THE WASHER HOOKUP AND LET THEM DRAIN AS YOU WOULD THE SINK TAPS.

SOME OF THE ABOVE INFO ONLY APPLIES IF YOU ARE IN A SEVERE CLIMATE AND ARE STORING THE UNIT WITHOUT HEAT OR SHELTER.
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:56 PM   #19
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Another easily missed item to winterize is the outside shower. Probably on 2005 and newer units.

I almost forgot it this year.
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:18 PM   #20
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Please read the update below as some of this initial info is incorrect.

[QUOTE=masseyfarm;917919]Note:
On my Clipper #137 the plumbing plan/installation included a reverse kitchen option that was used on the smaller Cutter. These lines would also serve the ice maker option. These lines can be seen below/behind the fridge on the Clipper, and the ends are exposed to the weather thru the outside fridge access door. This means that there are PEX lines that are capped and, because of the low runs below the shutoff valve, are not able to be drained, and are subject to freezing if left with no heat.
The shut off valves are included in the cluster of valves at the hot water tank.
Because it is impossible to tell if water is in these lines??? I suggest that when the system is drained, that these valves be opened so they are exposed to the "PINK STUFF FLUSH".
When the pink antifreeze is pushed through the system one can only hope enough would be mixed into the low spots in these lines.
CORRECTION ON ABOVE INFO!!!

Upon further investigation, I will correct the above.
There are two pex lines that run behind the fridge and I assumed they were hot and cold water lines.
One is the cold water run to the ice maker option.
The other PEX line is the drain for the fridge defrost tray, and it runs and drains at the rear wheel well.

To drain the optional ice maker line requires opening the drain valve which is located just below the water tank, (the lowest valve) and goes though the floor and again drains into the rear wheelwell.

Push some pink stuff thru with these valves open. Come spring run fresh water thru and then close the drains.

Dave
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