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Old 10-31-2013, 09:34 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Airstream12557 View Post
I didn't take any after photos, but the finish, after cleaning and polishing, looked like the finish on the rest of the rig. Only damage was where the original installer "scratched" the paint as they trimmed the 3-M film around the edges. I parked the rig where the front would be in full sun. My thought was that the heat from the summer sun would make the film easier to remove. After a couple of sessions in the sun, I decided that it was easier to scrape the film while the rig, and the scrapper (me), was in the shade. Early in the process, I tried a heat gun, but was afraid I would apply too much heat and damage the paint. Using the cold scrape method, I can't see anywhere that I damaged the paint or clear coat. As stated earlier, the process is slow. If I got too aggressive, the cracked film was even more difficult to remove. I took my time and let the sharp corner of the blade cut the adhesive layer between the 3-M film and the paint. If, after a number of strokes with the blade, I got a strip of plastic an inch wide I thought I was doing good. I worked on the film removal about one to one and one-half hour at a time. I probably took maybe 15 to 17 hours total to remove the film.

I purchased Turtle Wax Label & Sticker Remover at Walmart. It comes in a 10 oz. spray can. After removing the film, there was a lot of adhesive left on the paint. to clean the adhesive residue, I would spray the fluid on, let it set a couple of minutes, then use the plastic scraper to assist in removing the adhesive. Two or three applications left the surface clean and ready to polish.

The orange, plastic double edge blades are called Miniscraper and are at www.miniscraper.com. I purchased the blade holder with 25 blades plus a box of 100 blades from Amazon. I probably used 30 to 40 blades on the project. A sharp blade works much better than a dull blade.

Sam
Getting ready to do this to my rig too. I ordered the mini-scrappers from your link. I see everyone uses heat to try and remove the film. I wonder if dry ice would do anything. I might give that a go too. I have done little sections on my front end in the past and boy its slow process. But thanks for all your data!
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:21 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Colin4 View Post
Getting ready to do this to my rig too. I ordered the mini-scrappers from your link. I see everyone uses heat to try and remove the film. I wonder if dry ice would do anything. I might give that a go too. I have done little sections on my front end in the past and boy its slow process. But thanks for all your data!
As indicated working in the sun does not help so park where you will be in the shade. Also as stated a Heat Gun is just to hot and there is a real possibility that you will damage the paint and/or fiberglass body. Steam heat will work and will not damage the paint or fiberglass body. I used a unit similar to this one and they are available at Target, Walmart and other big box stores.

Conair Compact Fabric Steamer: Appliances : Walmart.com

I did use some of the mini-scrapers that resemble plastic razor blades but found that this scraper from Home Depot was more sturdy and had a good handle and a wide scraping area and will not damage the paint

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Economy-2...SHHD/202251538

They work best when applying forward pressure at an angle to the area after applying the steam heat for a few minutes. A sharp edge works best so expect to go through a bunch of these. Like in the words of the song "I tried them all", but the only thing that I found that would effectively remove the 3M adhesive residue was 3M General adhesive remover.

On-line Product Catalog:*3M

It still takes a few applications to get it off and I found that the best approach was to squirt it on and scrape the residue off and repeat as needed. Letting it soak in did not help. Any one want some goof-off, goo be gone or a few other brands of adhesive remover I've got bunch of them barely used.

If you have a helper you can work as a team and the job will go much faster. I contacted some local 3M installers that were listed on the 3M web site before starting the project to see if they would remove this stuff. No one was interested. So this is a sweat equity project but you will be pleased with the results. What ever approach or method you use post your results with pictures and details to help others that will come along and tackle this project. Good luck.
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:10 AM   #17
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Don, thanks for adding your experience with removing the 3-M film. I think the first thing to remember when tackling this job is that it is a time consuming job. There seems to be no "magic bullet" for quick film removal. Best approach is to find a shady spot, maybe a comfortable stool, a little of your favorite music and go at it. Also, don't try anything agressive and damage your paint.

When you get the first area cleaned and stand back and admire it, you will be motivated to keep going.

Happy scraping!

Sam
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:03 AM   #18
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We use a heat gun similar to a blow dryer when we remove 3m shield.Being careful to just heat to reduce the adhesion so it lets go.Constantly moving so not to get the area too hot,
I have never see this type pf crazing though.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:46 AM   #19
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I find this interesting as I'm getting ready to have the 3M shield applied to my Sprinter MH. My wife's 2006 Porsche has this on a black paint job and yet to see a blemish. Wonder if the fact that it's garaged makes a difference. The Sprinter is also garaged.
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:10 AM   #20
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I find this interesting as I'm getting ready to have the 3M shield applied to my Sprinter MH. My wife's 2006 Porsche has this on a black paint job and yet to see a blemish. Wonder if the fact that it's garaged makes a difference. The Sprinter is also garaged.
No I don't think being garaged makes any difference. This stuff looks great until it starts to fail. You just don't know when it will happen. The failure is not to the outside coating but in the adhesive. Mine did not have the appearance of cracks like some but was a brown discoloration like someone spit tobacco juice all over the front of the coach.
For more information go to http://www.irv2.com/forums/, and do a search for remove 3m and diamond shield. Lot of motor home owners on this forum with this stuff installed.
Good luck
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:18 AM   #21
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I would question if that is a 3m brand product as I have never seen this type of crazing.We have been using this product since its inception (1997) and is has been drastically improved and has evolved over the years.Even the early product though it was thick and had a orange peel appearance never did this.
I am a firm believer in this 3M product(I do not sell this product nor am I a dealer for it) and have installed it on all of my vehicles.And they sit in the sun.I run my vehicle through a high pressure car wash almost every day also.I have also removed it with a heat gun as I recommended from many vehicles so it is safe if you are just careful and use common sense.
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:02 PM   #22
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The PO had some (do not know what brand) put on our trailer. Here is the link that I posted to the photos. I did remove all of it in about 30 hrs.!!
Just want to say thanks to this thread for all the advise.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/n...lm-109718.html
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:44 PM   #23
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I would question if that is a 3m brand product as I have never seen this type of crazing.We have been using this product since its inception (1997) and is has been drastically improved and has evolved over the years.Even the early product though it was thick and had a orange peel appearance never did this.
I am a firm believer in this 3M product(I do not sell this product nor am I a dealer for it) and have installed it on all of my vehicles.And they sit in the sun.I run my vehicle through a high pressure car wash almost every day also.I have also removed it with a heat gun as I recommended from many vehicles so it is safe if you are just careful and use common sense.
The Airstream/Thor class A 390 motor homes from 2000 through 2005/6 had the "clear bra paint protector by 3M according to what I have been told. The failure in the product would take on the appearance of mine as shown in the PDF pictures in post 11 or in some cases "crazing" shown in post #1. I have also seen a mosaic effect on some other Airstream in this year range. Most of the problems started after the warranty expired. I would hope that the product has improved because new motor homes are still having a product called Diamond Shield applied which also has a history of failing. I am sure the heat gun works but I would not want to take the chance in damaging the paint or fiberglass body when the steam heat produces ample heating to remove the film without any chance of damage to the paint or fiberglass body. I am glad the project is done and I got rid of the steamer and scrapers since I do not plan on ever doing this again.
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:53 PM   #24
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I would question if that is a 3m brand product as I have never seen this type of crazing.We have been using this product since its inception (1997) and is has been drastically improved and has evolved over the years.Even the early product though it was thick and had a orange peel appearance never did this.
I am a firm believer in this 3M product(I do not sell this product nor am I a dealer for it) and have installed it on all of my vehicles.And they sit in the sun.I run my vehicle through a high pressure car wash almost every day also.I have also removed it with a heat gun as I recommended from many vehicles so it is safe if you are just careful and use common sense.
I had confirmed with A/S factory that it was indeed the 3M product that was used on the Land Yachts in the 2000's.
But all of the these M/H are fibreglass as opposed to aluminium or metal and have been painted. I wonder if that would make a difference to having this problem? Maybe its the paint /3M adhesive combination???

And I repeat that my 2005 A/S manual states to "not use a hot water pressure spray when washing the M/H". So I will continue to hand wash it and rinse with cold water.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:25 PM   #25
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That's odd as the cars that I have installed the film on have been constructed of Fiberglass, Carbon Fiber,Plastic composite,Aluminum and Steel.all I can guess is that is the paint or gel coat must interact with the film.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:21 PM   #26
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I used my 2700psi pressure cleaner to remove the plastic outer layer, then, once all plastic removed I cleaned the glue with petroleum distillate and it cleaned ip beautifully. Took me most of the day to do. Mine was black from mold as I etched it 6 years prior removing love bugs. So thrilled to have my front cap looking almost new. I tried heat gun and scraping before this and felt my presssure cleaner was the better bet.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:57 PM   #27
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Good news it had to be driving you nuts.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:00 AM   #28
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I used my 2700psi pressure cleaner to remove the plastic outer layer, then, once all plastic removed I cleaned the glue with petroleum distillate and it cleaned ip beautifully. Took me most of the day to do. Mine was black from mold as I etched it 6 years prior removing love bugs. So thrilled to have my front cap looking almost new. I tried heat gun and scraping before this and felt my presssure cleaner was the better bet.

Its taking me hours to get this film off and I still have plenty to do. Glad yours is off. I have been working with a steamer which is very fast. The glue is causing me problems once the steamer takes off the top part of the film. I have used every glue remover I can find and the only thing that has worked is a 3m product and thats slow going too.
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