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Old 01-02-2012, 01:13 AM   #71
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2005 30' Land Yacht 30 SL
Castro Valley , California
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We bought ours used about 3 years ago and promptly hooked up with some local a/s rallies. Everyone else has those shiny aluminum versions, usually mostly trailers, so we have a great time giving tours, chatting about the differences between a trailer and TV vs. a moho & dolly/toad. It became an instant community but seems a little small (to me) to F/T. I saw a 2006 DP about 35 feet at a dealer about a year ago, beautiful interior.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:06 PM   #72
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Hello All!

I never thought this thread would generate so much interest! I have been off the forums since last summer, too much stress at work. But that will hopefully settle down soon.

It is exciting to catch up and read all the enthusiasm for the LYG SO.

Regarding woodytwo's questions:

My steering wheel does seem to be a little "loose" when driving. I've had the front end aligned, keep the airbags inflated, and had the steering mechanism "tightened" (not sure exactly what the mechanic did). This "looseness" seemed to get a little more pronounced after purchasing new tires. I wonder if buying a little less expensive tire than the michelins contributed to this. I also wonder if how I load the MH is causing a problem. Once, when we picked up firewood, I loaded it into the cabin through the side door, thereby adding a lot of weight to the front end, and it actually seemed to steer a lot better! When I get a chance, I plan to systematically weigh all four corners of the MH and adjust the tire pressures according to mfr's specs. All in all, I love driving the thing! Keep in mind that it is a truck, not a Jaguar. Lastly, I have never driven another MH, so I have nothing else to compare it to.

Rattles do occur. It takes teamwork to diagnose them and one by one quiet them down.

The black tank is underneath the toilet, (where else?). And the gray one is enclosed aft of the black one. I do not know if they receive heat from the engine, I doubt it.

You are correct about storage. The MH definetely has way less storage than a comparably sized TT. You just have to learn to travel with less. We get by just fine. I did rebuild the drawer under the fridge and the drawers under the sides of the bed, making each of them longer. It has helped. Oftentimes RV builders leave a lot of dead space behind things. Oh well.

We tow a Wrangler, 2 dr, wheels down. You know it's there and gas mileage goes down. I just bought an RVi supplemental brake and will use it for the first time next weekend. I fretted over which type of brake to buy, but finally bit the bullet and got one. I recently read that "the best brake system is the one you have" meaning just get one and use it. I can feel the Wrangler pushing me when I slow down and hope this goes away.

Yeah, oil changes are more expensive than cars, but I only need to do it once a year for now.

The driver's door exit is a b---h. I use it. Once, I fell out of it. I had just washed the MH and was returning it to storage. I was in a hurry and slipped as I was getting out. Fell on my left hip. Ouch! Be careful.

I do walk on the roof. However, there are some soft spots and I am very careful to spread my weight. Also, I only weigh 150#.

The generator works fine. It's loud, it's a generator.

We had fog in virtually every window on our MH when we got it. Luckily, it was under warranty. Had them all replaced with single panes. No more fog.

So, woodytwo, did you buy it? How's it going?
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:11 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodytwo View Post
Talked to the Airstream factory service center in Ohio today.

Yes, what I am seeing is fogging. No, he doesn't think it is the film inside deteriorating. Replace the window or perhaps have the Florida company restore the window. (There is a company in Florida that removes the window, separates the glass, cleans, reseals and reinstalles the window for about $100 each.) Yes, the supplier had been offering some extra warranty replacement but that is no longer the case.

What I learned researching this topic is that fogging is just a matter of time; age, sun and the number of bumps will take its toll on the seals.

So, why bother to replace or restore? Just remove the inside glass and have some condensation on the windows from time to time. I can live with that.

Woodytwo
My coatings are deteriorating on all the dual panes. I had the passenger window assembly replaced with a factory supplied unit because I couldn't see details in the RH mirror at night (including a Mustang once), and will soon get quotes from a local glass shop recommended by one of my rv shops: he will remove the inner pane, clean the coating and reinstall. I like the idea of having the dual panes for insulation, same as my house.

I'm the second owner. The original buyer put the Banks intake/exhaust on, Super Steer and other front suspension upgrades so it goes pretty good and is now very stable. Some other adds by me: A CG Lock on the seat belt. This gismo is sold for sports car and other drivers usign stock seat belts and it locks the lap portion when you pull on the shoulder part so it keeps me in the seat. I felt I was not stable, sliding around in the seat and I like staying in one place behind the wheel. Also added a flip up shelf in the bathroom for extra vanity space, a vacuum cleaner on the panel under the closet, upgraded to a 26" HDTV, and my newest, a Sewer Solutions kit to get rid of the messy 3" hose.

Lat Fall, with about 18K miles, I failed smog, and had to replace the 2 cat. converters! Numbers are pretty good now but I'm bringing it back to my mechanic to find some unkown issue with the engine that contributed to the cat. failure.

We will be at the NorCal Rally in April, the only non-aluminum participant, so we stand out like a brown thumb!
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:45 AM   #74
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Rockford , Michigan
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Another 2000 miles & 2 months in the LY

We just returned from our 2nd "snowbird" adventure in the LY. Traveled from MI to Gulf Shores AL. This year the weather/road conditions were perfect (no snow, ice or salt on the roads). And, the LY did a great job. Our gas milage stayed at 11mpg while towing. (mostly highway miles @ 60-65 mph) The down side of the good milage is the space available in the LY once we arrived at our campground. It did seem smaller than past trips...but it rained more, & we were inside more. We keep reminding ourselves, more space=more gas...the talk in the park was 4-6 mpg for the large rigs. Yikes!
We continue to discover things about the LY every trip. This time we discovered the heat/AC controls are messed up. We needed the heater going south...no problems. The heater is an over-achiever. On the return trip we didn't need to run heat or air. So, the dial is set to "off". No heat from the dash, but lots from the coach vents. Finally, John moves the control to the left of "off", on a setting that appears to be an AC setting & the heat stops pouring out. Just another moho mystery. Any ideas on this?
Another issue has been with the house batteries holding a charge while going down the road. We've tested & retested...the batteries show that they are fine...but if we use the radio or back up camera, or plug in the GPS, the batteries drain in a day. We turn off & unplug everything in the coach...so, the draw seems to be coming from the dash area. Again, any thoughts?
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:57 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dowpells View Post
We just returned from our 2nd "snowbird" adventure in the LY. Traveled from MI to Gulf Shores AL. This year the weather/road conditions were perfect (no snow, ice or salt on the roads). And, the LY did a great job. Our gas milage stayed at 11mpg while towing. (mostly highway miles @ 60-65 mph) The down side of the good milage is the space available in the LY once we arrived at our campground. It did seem smaller than past trips...but it rained more, & we were inside more. We keep reminding ourselves, more space=more gas...the talk in the park was 4-6 mpg for the large rigs. Yikes!
We continue to discover things about the LY every trip. This time we discovered the heat/AC controls are messed up. We needed the heater going south...no problems. The heater is an over-achiever. On the return trip we didn't need to run heat or air. So, the dial is set to "off". No heat from the dash, but lots from the coach vents. Finally, John moves the control to the left of "off", on a setting that appears to be an AC setting & the heat stops pouring out. Just another moho mystery. Any ideas on this?
Another issue has been with the house batteries holding a charge while going down the road. We've tested & retested...the batteries show that they are fine...but if we use the radio or back up camera, or plug in the GPS, the batteries drain in a day. We turn off & unplug everything in the coach...so, the draw seems to be coming from the dash area. Again, any thoughts?
Just a couple of comments: I had/have similar problems with the chassis HVAC, and had my first shop try and fix it: they replaced the control unit for a few hundred $$$ (can't remember how much & I'm at work right now: work, work, work). There was not much change, and I read later of problems with the valve that controls the engine cooling water: it is supposed to close so hot water doesn't go in to the heat exchanger and create warm air. I have not had this fixed yet. My current work around is to turn on the a/c for a little while. It seems that when I do that, and then turn it off, the air stops being heated, & I don't know why. My new shop just replaced the hoses that go to the heat exchanger in back by the entry door: you can see them and some tee's behind the right front wheel. Mine were swollen & leaking.

My new batteries hold a charge just fine: you may need to put an ammeter on the battery output then start pulling fuses to see where the problem is. Last year, on my way to the Casini Ranch NorCal Airstream rally, I heard a loud "blam" just before I exited the highway, but steering stayed good so I figured it was not a blowout. Got out & found that one of the house batteries had blown off the top of the battery: could see all the cells, acid, etc! We figured that the vent must have clogged up, and steady charging after a winter rest did it in. Now I don't leave the coach plugged in all the time so I don't boil off the battery juice. I use a couple of small battery tenders that monitor & trickle charge as needed.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:18 PM   #76
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[QUOTE=dowpells;1119776]We just returned from our 2nd "snowbird" adventure in the LY... We continue to discover things about the LY every trip. This time we discovered the heat/AC controls are messed up. We needed the heater going south...no problems. The heater is an over-achiever. On the return trip we didn't need to run heat or air. So, the dial is set to "off". No heat from the dash, but lots from the coach vents. Finally, John moves the control to the left of "off", on a setting that appears to be an AC setting & the heat stops pouring out. Just another moho mystery. Any ideas on this?

MY COACH IS NOT NEARBY FOR ME TO CHECK THE EXACT LOCATION FOR THE SWITCH - BUT THERE IS A SWITCH ON THE DASH FOR THE HOUSE FLOOR VENTS. YOUR SWITCH IS PROBABLY ON. (SO WAS MINE. ONCE I TURNED IT OFF, THE HEAT STOPPED.) HERE IN FLORIDA, THAT WAS A REAL NO-NO. GOOD LUCK.
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:51 PM   #77
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Thanks for the feedback. Geotraveler, there is a switch marked "R heat". (Rear heat we are guessing.) That was off. So, maybe the valve suggested by Terra yacht is the culprit. We did the same "fix". We turned the air on. The hot air stopped as long as the dial remained to the left of the off position. We didn't really want to run the air, but things were heating up!

The batteries remain a mystery. Terra, didn't know that leaving the moho plugged in could result in the batteries exploding! We leave ours plugged in more than not.

Thanks , again for the information.
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:14 PM   #78
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Just to expand on battery issues: the newer battery chargers are "smart" but my original system delivers a continuous charge to the battery and this boiled off a lot of battery water. I topped the batteries with distilled water before this trip, had no idea where the vent was located or that it could clog up. Now I plug in about one day a month, and, coincidentally, the chassis battery wore out so I tucked an Optima sealed batttery in the corner.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:02 PM   #79
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And, one question if anyone can help: we will be (trying) to upgrade the bedroom tv in the next few months, and considering whether to remove the entire cabinet or perhaps mount a flat panel in the front or even underneath the cabinet:
1. A quick "test run" suggests the tv and its mounting board are too large to come out the front. Has anyone removed it, and if so, how?
2. Any opinions/suggestions about a replacement configuration?

We'll be at the NorCal Airstream rally this coming weekend, the only moho in LY class, and will have a great time with all those shiny trailers!
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:54 PM   #80
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TerraYacht, we replaced ours last year. Here's how we removed the old set. (I'm guessing your set up is similar.) 1st, remove the screws under the shelf. They attach the tv to another board inside the box. This allows the tv to be pushed back. Ours had a bracket on the top of the set that we could then pry down allowing the set to be pulled out. Once the old tv was out, we realized we didn't want to completely remove the box. It was attached with dozens of screws. Also the original shelf was very firmly in place. So, change of plans. We looked for a tv that could sit on the original shelf. The height was the key measurement...we ended up with a 22". Then we trimmed the old box down & replaced the screws into the bottom of the shelf...attaching the flat screen's pedestal to the shelf. A couple of other things we discovered once we had started the project...the corner is kind of unsightly once the original box is removed. That's why we cut the box to frame the new set & hide the wires, etc. And, the pedestal did not allow the tv to angle down as much as needed. So, we added an angled piece of wood under it. (all attached from underneath the shelf) I'll look for a picture to post...might make it clearer.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:32 PM   #81
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:58 AM   #82
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I took the entire box off and made a shelf out of the bottom. You can see the imprint of the box on the ceiling but we're ok with that. Will post a photo when I get a chance. You'll have a couple different options once you see the photos.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:47 PM   #83
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Here's a photo of the 19" flat panel TV I installed in place of the CRT that used to be there. I stained a piece of pine trim and tacked it onto the front lip to finish it off. I removed the "box" because that corner was crowded and it gave us more head room.

The TV sits on a shelf cut from the bottom of the box. The TV is attached to the wall that backs to the bathroom and rests on the shelf. You have to be careful drilling into the wall there, because there is a vent pipe in that area.

Someday, I plan to hit the ceiling with a hairdryer to see if some of the impressions from the box will go away.

Good luck with your project and please post photos of the finished product!
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:46 PM   #84
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Thanks to all for their answers to my queries.
We did buy one of the 60 LY 30's manufactured in 2005. our's has the slide. While I was in Florida at Paradise Park (Punta Corda) with my trailer, I made some cabinet fronts out of 1 by 2 oak to accomodate some extra storage. I bought used AS oak cabinet doors from my RV service guy and plan to finish the cabinets (add sides & shelves) when I return home. I'll be adding 4 cabinets 6 inches deep under the free standing table, one in the washroom behind the toilet, a 5ft high corner cabinet in the bedroom (Opposite corner from the tv), one cabinet between the door and dinnet window, and 2 cabinets on the side walls of the slide. All will be 6in deep, not much but every bit helps. Corner cabinet in BR will be 12 in deep. I'll try to post some pictures in about 4 weeks.

Will be taking out the MH for it's maiden trip in May and am planning on a 6 week fishing trip in July/Aug pulling my 17ft Lund.
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