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Old 08-14-2015, 04:46 PM   #1
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1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Denton , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
1994 Land Yacht front Air

3 weeks and 2700 miles into my first RV with absolutely no problems. Really enjoying it particularly the $9100 price for a 110k diesel pusher. (PO paid 14.7 + 10k addtl work in the last year. Two issues that I hope I can get advise for:
1. Front air is disconnected by p.PO. Lines are capped off. It is acme and I am not afraid to tackle it but interested in any advise as to whether it is worth the effort. Front rooftop is ok on gen when traveling but does cost about $4-5 per traveling hour.
2. Front/rear ac switch doesn't work for rear air on gen but both work on shore power.

Really appreciate the info contributed here. Hope to run into you on the road!

PO did:
6500 watt Onan Generator (Propane) - recently serviced
New Dometic Patio Awning
New bathroom and kitchen roof vents with ventilation fans
New Winegard TV antennae
New brake controller
Newly overhauled electronics for transmission
Recently rebuilt alternator
New batteries
New front shocks
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Old 08-14-2015, 06:22 PM   #2
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1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Franklin NC , North Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 278
By front air, do you mean the "dash air"? If so, YES it's worth it.
We lived in Florida and ran our dash A/C everyday we lived there. Now in NC, we use it most of the time as well. Can't imagine a trip anyplace without it.
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:47 AM   #3
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1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Denton , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Thanks Paul. Yes am referring to the dash air. Does it provide enough cooling that you don't need to run the front roof air?
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:01 PM   #4
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Hickory , North Carolina
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in my 03 LY my dash air works fine but I read a post here that running the front roof air gives better fuel economy than using the dash air. The last few trips i've run the genset and roof air and the coach is cooler and I've averaged a shade under 11 mpg with the dash air off. I close the vents pointing to the back of the coach leaving the forward pointing vents open and it is nice and cool in the driving area.
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:17 PM   #5
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1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Franklin NC , North Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by dajen54 View Post
Thanks Paul. Yes am referring to the dash air. Does it provide enough cooling that you don't need to run the front roof air?
Yes our's is cool enough, even in the summer heat of Florida, and this is how.
1. We had all the glass tinted with the best heat resistant dark window film
we could get. Did the windshield with clear heat resistant film.
2. We run the roof A/C on shore power prior to blast off to cool the coach.
3. Ours is 134a.
4. I shut off the heater water from circulation thru the dash. You can valve
that off.

The worst thing is parking somewhere to shop and loosing the cool to the heat of the day. That's when we run both roof A/C's on our propane generator. i went to "Ice Cold Air" in Largo Florida and they balanced my system and it's been perfect over since. (5 years ago)
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:47 AM   #6
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1993 33' Land Yacht
Midland , Michigan
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 492
Balanced Air Conditioning

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Dobbin View Post
Yes our's is cool enough, even in the summer heat of Florida, and this is how.
1. We had all the glass tinted with the best heat resistant dark window film
we could get. Did the windshield with clear heat resistant film.
2. We run the roof A/C on shore power prior to blast off to cool the coach.
3. Ours is 134a.
4. I shut off the heater water from circulation thru the dash. You can valve
that off.

The worst thing is parking somewhere to shop and loosing the cool to the heat of the day. That's when we run both roof A/C's on our propane generator. i went to "Ice Cold Air" in Largo Florida and they balanced my system and it's been perfect over since. (5 years ago)
Paul, what is involved in balancing the air conditioning system?
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gloran - 1993 LY MH 33' - Banks System, Steer Safe, IPD front stabilizer, Super Steer - Bell Cranks, Motion Control, Coil

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Old 08-17-2015, 07:48 AM   #7
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1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Franklin NC , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gloran View Post
Paul, what is involved in balancing the air conditioning system?
Well charged with high and low sides pressure in the perfect range. I guess my term of "balanced" is not technically correct, but I see people put in as much freon in as possible and I don't think that gives optimum cooling.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:08 PM   #8
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1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Denton , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Hi Paul,

If you get a chance would you post a few pictures of the dash ac components under the front hood. Trying to figure out what is missing and the schematics aren't much help.

Thanks
Andy
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:49 PM   #9
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1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 150
We are not a DP, so I would assume systems are different. But we have been trying to get our dash air working, after the PO indicated "it never worked well".

The MH has spent the last couple days at the shop. "It never worked well" turned out to mean:

1. It had no reefer.

2. Upon trying to fill with reefer (134C), the maintenance port was leaking.

3. Upon repairing the maintenance port leak, turned out the compressor was bad.

4. Replaced the compressor, filter drier, expansion valve (everything comes in a kit now, from the story I was lead to believe). It took (3) total parts to get the correct filter drier. The expansion valve is "close", but piped a bit different.

5. Tried to replace the condenser - it also came in the "kit".
A. 1st was the wrong physical size - too tall, not wide enough. 2nd was the wrong physical size - too wide, not tall enough.
After a couple days of this I asked them to please just use the old one - although their warranty is only valid if ALL components are replaced.
B. So instead they had "the condenser shop" pressure test the old one. Installed it, and ...someone...had apparently dropped it or something, as there was now a reefer leak on a u-tube. Pulled it again and they repaired the leak, reinstalled.
C. Went to install the oil cooler lines, and (my guess) is the mechanic tightened the connection a bit too much, and cracked the oil cooler fitting that is on the condenser. Pulled it again, sent it back, repaired, and installed again.

6.Tried to charge the system and it would only take about 2/3 what it was supposed to. Several hours later (with me sitting on my posterior in a waiting room... ) , they found a pair of check valves installed in the fitting between hose and (I think) filter drier. One had disintegrated, putting some parts in the filter dryer. Removed both check valves (apparently a "better idea" at some point in time that did not work out). Bought a new filter dryer. Installed. Filled with reefer. Got it mostly balanced. removed, pulled a fresh vacuum, and topped off again.

7. It now works. Kind of. In 100F weather driving home just now, it was maybe 70F. I am not real happy. I still have more heat coming in through the firewall than the AC can keep up with. Once I stopped driving at just sat there at idle, you could just barely feel the dash air working.

They did appear to be doing their best, and they asked when I can bring it back. Unfortunately, I am days late in departing on a x-country trip, so it looks like it will be with crappy air...

I wish you better luck then we have had.
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Old 08-26-2016, 03:22 AM   #10
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1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Franklin NC , North Carolina
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Our dash A/C blows 40 degrees. Finding a good A/C shop was the key to our success.
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:53 AM   #11
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1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 150
Paul - not to hijack the OP's thread, but this is about AC...

Is your condenser a combo condenser/oil cooler?
I talked to the shop yesterday, and the manager there has never seen a condenser so small in surface area on a motorhome. Of the full size 27x19, the condenser section is only 27x13. The other 6" is oil cooler, with temps of 250F or so not un-expected.

I am thinking of getting a standalone oil cooler, and then find a condenser that will fit in the space that will be all condenser. Checked with tech service on a great site called Vintage Air (http://www.vintageair.com/), which mostly does custom hot rod AC. He indicated that the 134C temps entering the condenser should be about 135-140F. This does not appear to not work well with the oil cooler temps, as aluminum to aluminum heat transfer is much better than aluminum to air. Basically, the 250F oil temp sabotage the condenser from doing its job.

If any folks with well functioning AC could measure their condenser size, and if the oil cooler is integral, it would be great.
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