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Old 06-15-2012, 05:21 PM   #1
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Angry 110V Switchover Box

Hello you all,
I am paying a $100 hr for the mechanic to locate my generator/Shore Switchover box. Anybody know where it is located on a 26 or 30 ft Landyacht???
Thanks
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:06 PM   #2
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WOW, $100 an hour is a little rude just to look for a transfer switch!
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:28 AM   #3
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Well, I had to get the Generator belt replaced and now there is no 110V power to the coach. According to my Onan Warranty, the Belts and Pullies are covered for "Life of the Generator, parts and labor for the first owner" and I am the Only Owner.
I guess the authorized shop wants to make up the money
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:58 AM   #4
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In my 2004 Land Yacht 30 ft w/slide, I was told by the factory that the transfer switch is in the rear trunk on the right hand side behind a panel. I just found that out this past Monday at Jackson Center, but haven't had tome to check it out. I want to find the box and attempt to add a second 20 amp service cord to run the rear AC while the front AC is running off the 30 amp service.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:44 AM   #5
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I want to try the same AC thing on our '95 30'. Let us know how the project is going.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:55 AM   #6
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http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24041285/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm

This link takes you to a "how-to" article. I purchased a kit from Power Solutions to do this, but have been searching for over a year on where the transfer switch box is located. I have not have the opportunity to see if the factory was correct on where it is located. I think Power Solutions is no longer in business.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:52 AM   #7
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Well, I am done with my "ONAN" 5500 repairs. I am the original owner of this coach and my onan warranty says LIFETIME ON BELT PULLIES AND STATOR FOR THE FIRST OWNER. Had to pay the shop to get my RV. Now I am looking for a ambulance chaser(Lawer) to get my money back from ONAN.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream12557 View Post
In my 2004 Land Yacht 30 ft w/slide, I was told by the factory that the transfer switch is in the rear trunk on the right hand side behind a panel. I just found that out this past Monday at Jackson Center, but haven't had tome to check it out. I want to find the box and attempt to add a second 20 amp service cord to run the rear AC while the front AC is running off the 30 amp service.
It is not that simple. When I had a 34 ft LY, we did a major rewiring to change the shore power from 30-amp (110 v @ 30 amp) to 50-amp (220 v 1@30amp 1@20amp). This required rewiring the two transfer switches into what was basically one housed in 2 boxes as well as a new shore power cable that has an extra wire in it (from 3-wire to 4-wire). Once done it worked well.

I would caution anyone undertaking this project to be *VERY* well versed in electricity - either as an engineer or electrician. Mine was done by a friend who is an electronics/electrician graduate from the Montreal Institute of Technology. Before undertaking the rewiring, he discussed the circuits and his proposed modifications with CSA (the Canadian equivalent of UL).

I had, some time ago, posted the final circuit diagram to do this on this forum. Pay careful attention to the placement of the time delay relays, as improper placement in the circuit can cause serious damage to the electrical/electronic components of the coach.
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post

I had, some time ago, posted the final circuit diagram to do this on this forum. Pay careful attention to the placement of the time delay relays, as improper placement in the circuit can cause serious damage to the electrical/electronic components of the coach.
Could you post the diagram again?

Thanks
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:08 PM   #10
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Could you post the diagram again?

Thanks
Here it is (again)

http://vsquare.com/howard/photos/air...lectric002.jpg
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:13 AM   #11
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Thanks again. I printed it out this time so I don't loose it again.

If you have time could you take a look at my relay post and tell me what you think?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f312...ays-93062.html

Thanks
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:10 AM   #12
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50 amp conversion vs extra 20 amp line

There are two solutions here. But in my opinion the easiest and simplist in a LYMH with a generator is to add the the extra 20 amp line. Check out the linkage above. It is well written up with pictures and comments as to how it worked.
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnacleBill View Post
Thanks again. I printed it out this time so I don't loose it again.

If you have time could you take a look at my relay post and tell me what you think?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f312...ays-93062.html

Thanks
Bill, you posted the block diagram for the whole coach, while what I posted was the schematic diagram which my friend Ziggy had developed (and discussed with CSA, the Canadian equivalent of UL).

My coach had had two ATS boxes - both had the identical circuit in them. One was for the 30-amp "leg" and the other for the 20-amp "leg" (only the rear air conditioner). These original boxes also switched the neutral wires (i.e., the white wires). CSA told Ziggy that switching the neutral wires was not necessary. Based on this, Ziggy used the existing ATS components to make a single 50-amp ATS circuit spanning both boxes, which is what is shown in the circuit I posted.

The key thing to remember is that there are 60-second time delay relays used to ensure that the power is stable before switching -- this is most important where the switch is to power generated by the generator. The time delay is in addition to the 60-second delay built in to the air conditioners.

As an aside, one of my time delay relays was defective; the rebuild of the circuits allowed me to isolate the malfunctioning relay, which I sourced and replaced.

The shore cable also had to be changed, as the voltage went for 110-volts to 220-volts, thus 4 wires (red, black, white & green). But the shore power change is from 30amps @ 110 volts to 30amps @ 200 volts (OK, I know that it is one leg at 30 amps and the other at 20-amps, but what I'm trying to show is that while there is an increase in the voltage, there is no increase in the current). Thus, there is no need to go to a firehose-sized cable - you can use the same wire gauge cable, but instead of 3 wires it has to be 4. Ziggy was able to source an end-of-roll for me which resulted in my having a 100-foot shore line - I no longer needed any extension cable.

You may want to find a certified electrician to work on this project with you, as any error can be catastrophic.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:55 AM   #14
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Transfer switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmamedia View Post
Hello you all,
I am paying a $100 hr for the mechanic to locate my generator/Shore Switchover box. Anybody know where it is located on a 26 or 30 ft Landyacht???
Thanks
Yip the electronic transfer switch is in the trunk on the right hand side behind a panel. I have two 30 amp sockets installed so I can run both AC units at the same time. I love it.
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Bill, you posted the block diagram for the whole coach, while what I posted was the schematic diagram which my friend Ziggy had developed (and discussed with CSA, the Canadian equivalent of UL). - blkmagikca
Thanks again for the schematic diagram from Ziggy.

I posted the block diagram because it shows two switch-over relays and I can only find one. I am just wondering if it is possible that I only have one with the set up I described in my post.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f312...ays-93062.html

Here is the diagram I posted:

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Old 07-03-2012, 11:17 PM   #16
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Bill, mine was a 94 LY - the ATS boxes were beside one another (3 inches apart). They were literally on the back side of the wall backing the the shore power's breaker box, which was on the street side of the queen bed. The boxes were kind of high up when you opened the rear panel where the radiator was. The '94 LY was built on a Spartan chassis.

Without seeing your coach, my guess would be to open the rear engine compartment and, using a flashlight, look high up on that rear wall. The boxes should be there. Try to envision where (from the outside) your breaker panel is and that should approximate the location of the ATS boxes.

A thought just occurred - they may have used one larger box to house the two ATS switches. If you can, open the box and take a photo of its interior. This would solve the riddle. I'm expecting a visit from Ziggy by the end of this week (I have a small project that I need his expertise in for my trailer). I can show him your posting and get his comments for you.

BTW, Bill - at the time I did the conversion I posted the details here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f160...tml#post220114
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
... I'm expecting a visit from Ziggy by the end of this week (I have a small project that I need his expertise in for my trailer). I can show him your posting and get his comments for you.

BTW, Bill - at the time I did the conversion I posted the details here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f160...tml#post220114
Thanks, I'll put the pictures up here and on my original thread. I feel bad about hi jacking this thread. So here's my original thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f312...ays-93062.html

Your post "...30 to 50 amp..." was great. That "Trulyvintage" person is a piece of work

Thanks again, pictures coming.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:28 PM   #18
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Here are the pictures of the components in our power locker.

These components are located on the aft wall of the street side aft locker (# 17):



These are the components:



From left to right, the Todd TS-30 Power switch (wiring diagram below), center, 30 amp Surge Guard, and on the right the 30 amp receptacle. You plug the shore power plug into this receptacle to get power from the generator.

From the owner's manual:
"Using the generator is very much like plugging into an external power source. Simply plug your power cord into the receptacle in the power cord storage compartment and the generator will provide operating current whenever it's running.

If you get: in the habit of plugging the cord into this receptacle when storing, your generator will always be ready to use."

Here is the diagram for the Todd TS-30 Power switch:



More follows...
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #19
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So I want to run both air conditioners when it gets real hot here in Florida this summer.

Here's how that used to work (from the Owner's Manual):

"AIR CONDITIONER
Because of the amount of power drawn by the air conditioners, it is only possible to operate one at a time when plugged into city power. A wall switch, located above the kitchen counter, allows you to operate either the front or rear air conditioner, but not both at the same time."

"Both air conditioners may be operated when the generator is running. Set the priority switch to the front air conditioner and it is powered through the normal circuit. The generator powers the rear air conditioner through a separate circuit."

Last year our old 5K Onan generator (5BGM) quit working and we had to replace it.

Cummins Onan could not fit the exact replacement in the space where the old generator was so we had to go with a smaller unit. We now have the Onan RV QG4000 (Model # 4KYFA-26100).

The new generator has only one 30 amp output. The old generator had two outputs, one 30 amp and one 20 amp.

The techs at Cummins tied both of the old output circuits together and connected them to the single output of the new generator. So now both air conditioners (and everything else) are powered by a single 30 amp supply.

That doesn’t work.

I’m thinking I can “untie” the two circuits and run the old 20 amp leg to a second shore power line and run both air conditioners.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:49 PM   #20
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but what you seem to have is a generator that only puts out 30-amps at 115-volts. If this is the case, then the ATS can only be a single 30-amp.

What the ATS does is delay the connection to the generator to make sure that the voltage has stabilized - the delay in the ATS is 60 seconds.

This is not the same as what I had in the '94 LY. I had a 6500-watt generator that put out 30-amps at 230-volts. There were 2 output circuits that were protected by breakers - one was 30-amps and the other was 20-amps. These breakers were on the right hand side of the generator. AS had designed this with 2 30-amp
ATS's but used only 30-amps of shore power. Our modification simply added the other 20-amp circuit using the existing components of the ATS switches.

BTW, when we changed the shore cable to the 4-wire one, we had to add another breaker (20-amp) which we mounted in one of the ATS boxes.

Thus the key factor is what is the output of the generator? Does it, in fact, put out 230-volts or only 115 volts. As well, do you have a switch to select front or back a/c?

If your generator only has a 115-volt output, then the best you can hope for is to revise the circuits to allow for 230-volt shore power connection. The danger is that the a/c selector switch (front/rear) would require being reworked to have it automatically disabled when you are plugged into "50-amps" - this would be accomplished using a relay which, when activated would disable that switch. This is a Ziggy issue, and I can ask him when he gets here tomorrow. However, we need to know first what is the output voltage of the genset.
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