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Old 05-23-2016, 04:22 PM   #15
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I went to get the Moho today and the truck battery was dead again. I get a good draw from something on the battery fuse in the dash. I can pull the fuse and the draw goes away. I am going to guess that it is something to do with the whole airbag set up. More on that later. Click image for larger version

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This is my best drawing so far. When I got home from the lot I plugged in the yellow wire that seemed to kill the system and nothing happened. I went in and started taking voltage measurements and boom it started running. Ran to about 85 pounds and shut off. With the switch on everything ran fine. With the switch off nothing ran. At 85psi the compressor shut off and the contacts were open. Once the contacts opened my amp draw went way down but I still have a voltage/amp thief. When I pull the radio fuse all of my draw goes away on the amps side but I still have a 12 v draw with not enough amps to measure and no light using a test light. Something still isn't correct as this all will run without the key on.


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Old 05-23-2016, 04:25 PM   #16
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:40 PM   #17
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Radio fuse in

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Radio fuse out

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Old 05-23-2016, 05:39 PM   #18
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Your diagram pretty much matches what I would expect to see for a compressor installation.

I redrew your sketch to show things a little more clearly.
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I can think of three possibilities as to why it seems to be erratic. The pressure switch contacts could be going bad which I don't think is the case since the pressure switch is not wired on the high current side feeding the compressor motor. It's also possible the pressure switch is just failing inside and not registering pressure properly.

Second, The circuit breaker (You list it as a relay) could be going bad and third, the solenoid is going bad. Or one other possibility is a loose wire somewhere.

Based on your symptoms and your wiring my diagram I would consider the solenoid to be the most likely culprit.

The reason you were getting a 1 amp draw previously is the pressure switch was closed calling for the compressor to start which energized the solenoid. However with the toggle switch in the off position the compressor can't run. Whoever installed the toggle switch apparently wanted to make sure the compressor wouldn't run unless they wanted it to but they failed to take into account the solenoid would still be energized if the pressure switch was closed.

An easy fix would be to move the toggle switch to the left side of the pressure switch which is where it should be anyway and run the ignition hot signal from the fuse block directly to the pressure switch.

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Also, the white wire that comes from the pressure transducer should head to the dash for an air pressure gauge. The white wire likely will not have a voltage reading or if it does it will be a low reading.


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Old 05-23-2016, 06:37 PM   #19
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I have a low pressure buzzer in the dash somewhere so I will guess that the white wire goes to it since I do not have a gauge in the dash. There is a gauge in the rear curb side hatch. If I understand you correctly I can pull the switch and attach those wires then put the switch in the yellow wire that is always hot? Then move that wire to a spade on the fuse block that is only hot when the key is on?


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Old 05-23-2016, 07:13 PM   #20
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I agree with Brad with one exception, the control feed from the dash fuse block needs to be controlled by the ignition switch. Other then testing there is no need to run the compressor to inflate the air bags unless the engine is running and you are moving the coach.

I can't guess at the amp rating of the toggle switch but most over the counter switches like that won't carry the amperage of the compressor. Your sketch shows it to be in series with the compressor and I would start checking there.

Referring to Brad's sketch the upper circuit would be the control circuit and should never see more than 1 or 2 amps. The lower circuit would be the load and will carry the approximately 20 amps of the compressor. Because you are drawing 1 amp with the solenoid coil wire connected the pressure switch contacts must be good. With that wire connected use your test light to check the load terminals on both sides of the solenoid, relay/circuit breaker and the toggle switch, they all must be hot for the compressor to run. If they are all hot and still no joy look for loose connections and the compressor ground.

With the cover off the pressure switch you can see the contacts and watch the paddles open and close as the switch operates. You can even operate it manually if you want. By the way if you do get a dirty contact just switch to another pair, you have several spares.

I'm not sure if your radio fuse has any thing to do with the problem unless there are strange things happening in the fuse box. Looking at the dash wiring in these rigs anything is possible.
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flysoncloud View Post
If I understand you correctly I can pull the switch and attach those wires then put the switch in the yellow wire that is always hot? Then move that wire to a spade on the fuse block that is only hot when the key is on?


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That is correct but as I said in the last post, I got interrupted an missed your post, when not moving the coach, there is no need to run the compressor other then testing so really not much need for the switch.
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
I agree with Brad with one exception, the control feed from the dash fuse block needs to be controlled by the ignition
switch.
Actually I thought or assumed the fuse block was fused and only hot when the ignition is on. That's why I had a ? mark there.

Quote:
Other then testing there is no need to run the compressor to inflate the air bags unless the engine is running and you are moving the coach.
Yep!

Quote:
I can't guess at the amp rating of the toggle switch but most over the counter switches like that won't carry the amperage of the compressor. Your sketch shows it to be in series with the compressor and I would start checking there.
Good point. I wasn't really thinking about that aspect of the setup at this point.
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:08 PM   #23
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Well to end the need for the switch I just found a spot in the fuse box that only goes hot when the key is on. Before I made that change I did run the compressor twice. First time it filled the bags and tank. I then pulled the gauge and put my air hose on the quick release. I tried to use that air to fill the fronts and found out that they are both bad. The compressor kicked back in and filled as it should.
I switched the wire to a spade that was open and only hot when keyed.
The book and its layout of the fuse box is not even close. There are a ton of wires that are hot all the time. I started mapping them and ran out of daylight.
While I was taking some more voltage and amp readings I found another draw. Click image for larger version

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This thing under the door for the steps was also drawing power. The switch on the wall for the steps cured that.
So now I am down to a 12v draw and .38 ma. I'll have to track that one down now. Seems like a quick fix might be to put a shutoff switch on the motor battery.


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Old 05-23-2016, 10:24 PM   #24
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Glad to hear the fix was simple and successful. The thing to keep in mind is it can be fixed, just lots of baby steps and the light at the tunnel is on, just a long ways down the tunnel.
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