Winterizing the Classic!

[jagcb750]

Here is the update: I tried to just take the clamp off of the intake side of the pump and stick it down into a jug of antifreeze and pump it through the system. It didn't work. Apparently the pump would not run, because it was not primed. I got it to work after I put water back in the fresh water tank and getting the pump to work again. Then, I got it to pump antifreeze into the system. The problem was that after that I couldn't drain the water back out of the fresh tank. So, I am back to square 1. I will have to buy some fittings and tubing to allow me to put antifreeze in the system without losing the prime to the pump. maybe something like John HD has posted in the Winterizing forums here:

[myfirstrv]

By your desription of the problem and the picture is your valve for the fresh water shut off installed 180 degrees out ?
anyway mine I just un screw the fresh water and screw on the hose for the anti freeze to the pump , I have to close all faucets build up pressure , then open one faucet a time , build up pressure then open the other faucet, close the first etc..
Remember the low point drains, if I get nothing I walk around the beast and listen for air, seems like I always forget something like the out side shower or a low point drain
let us know if this helps,
good luck
Rob

[ScrapIrony-2]

Mr JaG,
The hot water tank bypass is probably located just above the hot water heater...take the cushions off the rear dinette seat and lift up the frame that is below the bottom seat. This should give you full access to the external tank, except for the area accessed by the streetside 'door'. The hot water tank bypass should be on the top of the tank, and is probably a handle type valve(usually marked). Move(turn) that handle and the feed line should be shut off.
Now, go to the streetside access 'door' and unscrew the plug(should be located at the lower left of the tank)...it's a little hard to access, as it sits behind the gas line and an electrical switch. Once you have the plug out, lift the pressure relief valve toggle(should be towards the top right of the tank). This will allow the tank to drain faster. If this is confusing or doesn't do it, let me know and I will try posting pics tomorrow(it's 18 F outside right now, and I'm in my scrubs).
Sugestions for reassembly: use teflon tape on the plug before you reinsert it. keep the pressure relief valve open while you are refilling(don't forget to re-open the bypass handle under the dinette seat) and just keep an eye on it so you can shut it (the relief valve) when the water begins to flow out the top(this eliminates hours of air-in-the-line from the taps).
I'm sure there are other tips out there I'm unaware of, and I look forward to hearing them...this stuff is stuff I learned the hard or s-l-o-w way.
Also, when you are emptying the fresh H2O tank, park the MH with the front end elevated(or raise the front jacks, if you've got 'em) to run the tank water towards the back of the tank(assuming-wince-that the drains for the tank are towards the rear).
mike

[ScrapIrony-2]

By the way, this year we tried a suggestion and used Vodka as an 'antifreeze' after draining the fresh water tank...cost a bit more, even using the cheap stuff, but should be fun when refilling...will let you know how it worked(or didn't). It should save a lot of flushing time, and will prevent the pink staining that often accompanies RV antifreeze...m

[Chuckles]

The photo of the Drain valves is great!

I have a 310 but they are the same drain valves - however I cannot get them to drain............

Looking in the manual they imply that the valve is a 1/4 turn "then pull up", is that correct? or do I just keep unwinding........

I pushed a wire up from underneath expecting little critters, I think you call them, - daubers etc., but just a bit of dust.

Can theses valves be dismantled for cleaning/freeing off or is that a bit dodgy and they then probably don't seal properly - damp floor is the worst scenario.

[buckwheat]

Chuck, we had the same problem, opened the valves fully (pull up while turning counter clockwise, aboout 5 turns), and pressurized the fresh water tank by filling partially and applying low air pressure into the inlet side (we used the outside fill connection and sealed around the air hose where it entered the line). Find where the drain tube exits the flooring and monitor it for drainage, remove pressure when you get good water flow.

[Chuckles]

Pulling and many twists...............!

Right; I will give that a go. I don't have an airline handing so I will blow a bit!!!
Thanks - Here's to a good drain out

[ScrapIrony-2]

Ahem...cough...cough...
Mr JimG,
Post #23 was actually meant for you, but if you got the info, that's the end result...for what it's worth, we've been consistently 11-16 degrees F in the mornings, and then heated up to low to mid 50's, and the alternate 'antifreeze' has been holding the holding tank lines just fine...
mike

[Chuckles]

It worked!
A pull and twist, that is.....
I never did the pulling bit properly before, but yes, I turned on the pump, forgot to close them (Just forgot all about them - drain valves) and promptly emptied the water tank!

Thanks Buckweat

[buckwheat]

Woo hoo! You've got to like it when things work like they're supposed to. On another note, where do you go for parts for you MoHo? Iwerene Minster doesn't appear to have very many parts stores, auto or otherwise. How about manuals for your MoHo, do you have those? I got the valve info straight from the owner's manual. I've made copies of the manual for others if you need a section or two. Plus I've got tech manuals for most of the MoHo systems: generator, water heater, jacks, steps, etc. Let me know if you need any of it.