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Old 11-07-2007, 11:23 AM   #15
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2000 35' Land Yacht XL w/slide
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My hot water tank holds 6 gallons, I by passed it this year, I bought RV Education 101 DVD on winterizing and storing your RV, it shows how to hook up the by pass and what it looks like
This helped me more than the manuals, Got it at camping world might be able to get it at your local Library
Good luck Rob
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:57 PM   #16
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Here's a pic of my lines under the bed..not sure of your configuration but they are located right before the heater. I would just turn all your valves off...I can see a few that are still in the on position.

Also including a pic of the $1.50 hose and adapter I threw together for pumping in the antifreeze. I used about 4-5 gallons.
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Old 11-07-2007, 05:16 PM   #17
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Winterize??

Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Streamer
I'm winterizing California style. I turned the heater on this morning ...Sorry! I couldn't resist a little gloating!
That's the same technique I use here in the Heart of Texas. Actually, I had a local propane expert, AKA Hank Hill, install a quick-connect "Tee" under the 'A' frame of the trailer and when the Airstream is under the RV port next to the house I hook it up to our main supply tank and never have to worry about it.
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Old 11-08-2007, 12:09 PM   #18
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Do you have to put antifreeze in blown out lines?

Guys,

If I blow out the lines with compressed air to where no more water is coming out of any of the faucets, do I really need to put antifreeze in the freshwater lines?

I got some of the nontoxic antifreeze at Camping World, but I am still not crazy at all about putting that into my freshwater supply.

Thanks,
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Old 11-08-2007, 01:10 PM   #19
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I do to be safe....don't put any in your holding freshwater tank. There are several on here who do go that route but have heated tanks and still use them throughtout the winter season.

If you do decide not to run antifreeze through the system I would at least put a little in the traps. This is were I would expect water to collect and could be a problem. Also I put window goo goo juice in my loo to keep the seal moist.
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Old 11-08-2007, 05:44 PM   #20
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Well, I did completely drain out the gray and black tanks. I then poured a gallon of antifreeze into the toilet, save for about a quart I left in the bowl just to keep it moist, like you said. I also poured the other gallon into equal thirds into the traps of the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, and bathtub. I figure the traps are now full of the antifreeze and I've got some laying in the pipes back to the drain valves.

On the supply side, I blew them all out with compressed air. I guess I could just unhook the supply pipe from the pump and stick that into the jug of antifreeze so that I get some in the freshwater lines and water heater without actually putting it in the tank. But I wasn't going to bother if I didn't need to.

My dad just blows out his lines and then pours antifreeze into the traps. That's all I was gonna do, but if you guys think I really should flood the supply lines, I'll figure it out and do it over the weekend. I've got a gallon left. That should do it all save for the hotwater heater.

Speaking of, I'm still trying to figure out how to drain it. Mine has what I think is the drain plug mounted low and to the left, but the propane line comes in right by it. So it looks like I have to unhook the propane line to get a wrench in there to pull the drain plug. It's a 1987 Atwood, I don't know the model. PO put a blow off type drain valve in it, but you can't open it for the propane line. Any advice?

Thanks,
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Old 11-12-2007, 07:02 PM   #21
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Here is the update: I tried to just take the clamp off of the intake side of the pump and stick it down into a jug of antifreeze and pump it through the system. It didn't work. Apparently the pump would not run, because it was not primed. I got it to work after I put water back in the fresh water tank and getting the pump to work again. Then, I got it to pump antifreeze into the system. The problem was that after that I couldn't drain the water back out of the fresh tank. So, I am back to square 1. I will have to buy some fittings and tubing to allow me to put antifreeze in the system without losing the prime to the pump. maybe something like John HD has posted in the Winterizing forums here:

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Old 11-13-2007, 10:19 PM   #22
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By your desription of the problem and the picture is your valve for the fresh water shut off installed 180 degrees out ?
anyway mine I just un screw the fresh water and screw on the hose for the anti freeze to the pump , I have to close all faucets build up pressure , then open one faucet a time , build up pressure then open the other faucet, close the first etc..
Remember the low point drains, if I get nothing I walk around the beast and listen for air, seems like I always forget something like the out side shower or a low point drain
let us know if this helps,
good luck
Rob
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Old 11-18-2007, 11:46 PM   #23
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Mr JaG,
The hot water tank bypass is probably located just above the hot water heater...take the cushions off the rear dinette seat and lift up the frame that is below the bottom seat. This should give you full access to the external tank, except for the area accessed by the streetside 'door'. The hot water tank bypass should be on the top of the tank, and is probably a handle type valve(usually marked). Move(turn) that handle and the feed line should be shut off.
Now, go to the streetside access 'door' and unscrew the plug(should be located at the lower left of the tank)...it's a little hard to access, as it sits behind the gas line and an electrical switch. Once you have the plug out, lift the pressure relief valve toggle(should be towards the top right of the tank). This will allow the tank to drain faster. If this is confusing or doesn't do it, let me know and I will try posting pics tomorrow(it's 18 F outside right now, and I'm in my scrubs).
Sugestions for reassembly: use teflon tape on the plug before you reinsert it. keep the pressure relief valve open while you are refilling(don't forget to re-open the bypass handle under the dinette seat) and just keep an eye on it so you can shut it (the relief valve) when the water begins to flow out the top(this eliminates hours of air-in-the-line from the taps).
I'm sure there are other tips out there I'm unaware of, and I look forward to hearing them...this stuff is stuff I learned the hard or s-l-o-w way.
Also, when you are emptying the fresh H2O tank, park the MH with the front end elevated(or raise the front jacks, if you've got 'em) to run the tank water towards the back of the tank(assuming-wince-that the drains for the tank are towards the rear).
mike
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Old 11-18-2007, 11:53 PM   #24
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By the way, this year we tried a suggestion and used Vodka as an 'antifreeze' after draining the fresh water tank...cost a bit more, even using the cheap stuff, but should be fun when refilling...will let you know how it worked(or didn't). It should save a lot of flushing time, and will prevent the pink staining that often accompanies RV antifreeze...m
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Old 11-19-2007, 03:11 AM   #25
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The photo of the Drain valves is great!

I have a 310 but they are the same drain valves - however I cannot get them to drain............

Looking in the manual they imply that the valve is a 1/4 turn "then pull up", is that correct? or do I just keep unwinding........

I pushed a wire up from underneath expecting little critters, I think you call them, - daubers etc., but just a bit of dust.

Can theses valves be dismantled for cleaning/freeing off or is that a bit dodgy and they then probably don't seal properly - damp floor is the worst scenario.
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Old 11-19-2007, 07:49 AM   #26
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Chuck, we had the same problem, opened the valves fully (pull up while turning counter clockwise, aboout 5 turns), and pressurized the fresh water tank by filling partially and applying low air pressure into the inlet side (we used the outside fill connection and sealed around the air hose where it entered the line). Find where the drain tube exits the flooring and monitor it for drainage, remove pressure when you get good water flow.
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Old 11-20-2007, 02:04 PM   #27
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Pulling and many twists...............!

Right; I will give that a go. I don't have an airline handing so I will blow a bit!!!
Thanks - Here's to a good drain out
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Old 11-20-2007, 07:28 PM   #28
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Ahem...cough...cough...
Mr JimG,
Post #23 was actually meant for you, but if you got the info, that's the end result...for what it's worth, we've been consistently 11-16 degrees F in the mornings, and then heated up to low to mid 50's, and the alternate 'antifreeze' has been holding the holding tank lines just fine...
mike
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