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Old 01-15-2014, 12:16 AM   #1093
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1991 30' Airstream 30
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I don't remember where I got my first set of LED marker lights from, but they did not have room for the wiring underneath. I ended up with a poor looking install and a short. I replaced them all last eek end wi a set from http://vehiclelight.com/97a.html...much better and the short is gone.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:46 PM   #1094
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Saint Petersburg , Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice Berg View Post
Derek ,
Going to be working on power seats could I get part ## for those ford seat switches ? Thanks Joe

Joe,

Thanks to BKahler for helping me locate the proper seat switch on eBay. This was the auction where I acquired my new switch Mercury 87 Grand Marquis Seat Control Switch Right 1987 | eBay

At the moment, I don't see any auctions with same switch available. Maybe try a different year (one year before maybe?)

Just did a search in eBay, no luck at the moment, but keep that search 'saved' and eBay will notify you if it's up for sale.
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Old 01-16-2014, 04:39 AM   #1095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazeevw View Post
Joe,

Thanks to BKahler for helping me locate the proper seat switch on eBay. This was the auction where I acquired my new switch Mercury 87 Grand Marquis Seat Control Switch Right 1987 | eBay

At the moment, I don't see any auctions with same switch available. Maybe try a different year (one year before maybe?)

Just did a search in eBay, no luck at the moment, but keep that search 'saved' and eBay will notify you if it's up for sale.
Here's a few switches on ebay. There are at least a couple more listed but they are a lot more expensive.

Ford seat switch

And another seat switch that's cheaper

Hope this helps!

Brad
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Old 01-16-2014, 07:31 PM   #1096
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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Cool beans , Thanks with this info my paint and body guy will hook me up . Now just need to make time spring camping is closing in . . . like yea
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:02 PM   #1097
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After reading through KeyAir's thread, I discovered something else for spare parts toolbox. Myrtle Lynne had this problem, which put him on side of the road. Figured $6.75 wouldn't break the bank! May go ahead and replace existing, and order 2nd for spare.....
"Governor Gear Kit" part #K34411"Click image for larger version

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Old 01-24-2014, 12:24 PM   #1098
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and before I forget, a HUGE THANK YOU to Steve (Keyair) for his help in locating part name and part number for me!
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Old 01-25-2014, 12:24 PM   #1099
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1991 30' Airstream 30
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I had to look up what a governor was...good to know about. Has anyone on this forum put together an emergency roadside spare parts kit list? I had a real adventure replacing a dead coil in the middle if nowhere (look up 40 miles north of Madras OR) last summer.

From the web:

A few comments about how the trans works: decisions about what
road speed to shift at, and how harsh the shift is, are made by
a simple hydraulic computer. The harshness of the shift is
determined solely by engine vacuum; the vacuum modulator is used
to sense the vacuum and to change the vacuum signal into a pressure
signal inside the tranny. The higher this pressure, the more
harshly the trans shifts. This modulator pressure is also used
to decide at what road speed to shift.

The road speed is measured by a governor which is at the tail
of the tranny. It is gear driven from the tailshaft and therefore
it responds to driveshaft RPM which is proportional to road speed
(unless the tires are spinning). The governor generates a pressure
signal internal to the trans; this pressure increases with road
speed but not in a linear fashion. Since the governor uses weights
which are spun out by its rotation, the force (and therefore the
pressure) generated is proportional to the square of the RPM.
In an attempt to somewhat linearize this the designers have used
two sets of weights, one light and one heavy. The two are
separated by small springs. The heavy weights operate at lower
RPM (road speed). When a sufficiently high RPM is reached then
the weights hit stops and do not contribute any more to the
pressure signal. At this RPM the light set of weights begins to
provide the increases in the pressure signal. Higher RPM always
means a higher pressure, but not necessarily in proportion to the
road speed.

The transmission decides which gear to use by comparing the pressures
provided by the modulator and by the governor. If the difference
between these two pressures exceeds an amount determined by a spring
in a shift valve assembly then that shift valve operates and selects
the next higher gear. There are two shift valve assemblies, one for
the 1-2 shift and the other for the 2-3 shift. The system works
as follows: assume that you are idling and then begin to open the
throttle. The engine vacuum at idle causes a very low modulator
pressure (nearly 0). The governor pressure is 0 because there
is no tailshaft RPM (no road speed). As you open the throttle and
begin to accelerate the engine vacuum drops. This causes the
modulator pressure to rise. Assuming that the engine vacuum remains
constant due to a steady throttle position, the modulator pressure
will remain at a steady value. As the vehicle picks up road speed the
governor pressure rises. When the governor pressure force exceeds the
modulator pressure force by a small amount then the 1-2 shift valve
operates and engages the clutch which shifts the tranny into 2nd gear.
The rate of clutch engagement is a function of the modulator pressure;
low modulator pressure causes slow engagement and a smooth shift.
High modulator pressure due to large throttle opening causes harsh shifts.
As the vehicle continues to gain road speed the governor pressure
continues to increase. Eventually the governor pressure force exceeds
the modulator pressure force by enough to operate the 2-3 shift valve.
This activates another clutch pack which shifts the transmission
into third gear.

The governor is fairly easy to change because it is accessible
by removing a small cover on the side of the tranny at the rear.
Caution: the trans will be hot when you are down there messing with
the governor. It is easy to burn yourself. I suggest gloves.
And you will probably want to lay in a small stock of gaskets for
the governor cover.

As I mentioned above, governors are finicky. Absolute cleanliness
is a must. If ANY amount of dirt, grit, grinding compound, metal
shavings, or any other foreign material gets into the governor then
you will have all sorts of shifting problems.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:40 PM   #1100
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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I feel the need... the need for Speed...O

My speedo, was not the original and so I was looking...

Was not sure which one was correct... so got 2...

One has smaller numbers and one larger... the larger will be going in.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:38 AM   #1101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
My speedo, was not the original and so I was looking...

Was not sure which one was correct... so got 2...

One has smaller numbers and one larger... the larger will be going in.
Steve, I'm not sure the one on the right will fit in the 345 dash. The original gauges are fitted with shrouds that make them larger in diameter. I don't know that the shroud will fit that style of speedometer. I can check later today as I have one like you bought and I also have the original 345 gauges to compare to.

Stay tuned....

Brad
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:03 AM   #1102
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The first picture shows a different style of gauge than was originally used in the 310/345 series. The right gauge is from the 345. In the center is the sun shroud that slips over the gauge. The shroud requires a larger dash opening. I absolutely hate the shroud. It just makes it harder to read the gauge.

Click image for larger version

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The second picture shows the sun shroud installed on the original 34 gauge.

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The third picture shows it installed on the style of gauge that Steve wants to use. I found no difference in fit of the shroud on the old gauge compared to the new gauge.

Click image for larger version

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If your speedometer is loose in the dash it's likely because the hot melt glue used to hold the shroud in place has broken loose. I believe this happens when someone tries to remove the dash assembly or loosens the dash assembly and tries to pull it towards the steering wheel. The speedometer cable doesn't have much if any play in it so when you pull on the dash you're pulling against the speedometer cable which then pulls the speedometer and shroud away from the dash. Both the 310 and the 345 had this same problem.

Hope this helps!

Brad
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:02 PM   #1103
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Fort Bragg , North Carolina
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This season we decided to upgrade the interior lights removing them all three sets of six and replacing with 18 LED puck style lights. Also included was the replacement of the fans, old ones were removed and replaced with three Fantastic-vent RTB 6000. While we had the channel down why not take out the old carrier ac and put in a Dometic 15K BTU HP and run the wire to the furnace.
So collectively after gathering parts last years (fans, lights while they were on sale), waiting for a shipping of ACs to be delivered so cut the costs, we had this done at ODM where they do a great job in finding problems like the 42 yo univolt needing to be replaced and due to everything being opened. saved lots in labor.
Hope to get over there the 17th and will take some pictures as there are a few other minor things going to be done.
Lots of money in upgrades and labor one would think until you price the new ones and realize that the older ones (at least in our case) is in great shape and a lot lighter for the length.
Next step is to either polish it or re-clear coat next fall. Trying to research to see if the 72's were actually polished to the high shine that comes with the polish. But as I read it seems to be the easiest to maintain.

SL4BLLT
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:04 PM   #1104
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In the last few months I've bought the following for my 74 Argosy 20'.

Found the Argosy badges on ebay and couldn't pass them up for $25 These are the ones that go on the back and front of the motorhome.

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Best of all I bought a nice new set of Doug Thorley headers that are ceramic coated. These are the Tri-Y design headers. Once the weather warms up I'll be installing them. The motor is still on the test stand so sometime in the next couple of months I hope to hear what they sound like

Click image for larger version

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Brad
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:40 PM   #1105
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Keyair,


The tach in our newly acquired 350 LE is stuck at 1700.

Would you mind naming the source of your speedos, if they might stock tachs?


Thanks,

JD
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Old 02-09-2014, 01:56 PM   #1106
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JD, enter the following in the search box on ebay

Teleflex (speedo, speedometer)

Just to be clear, I make no guarantee that any of these speedometers will work or are the correct one for your coach. They are close in appearance and may even be exactly the same, I just don't know. So buy at our own risk. With that said, I also have previously bought a couple of these speedometers but have not yet been able to test to see if they will work. However I have high hopes that they will

Teleflex speedomter

Another teleflex speedometer

Here's an expensive one

And another expensive one

This one might be just right for those of you with diesel rigs!

Brad
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