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Old 11-30-2015, 06:26 PM   #1321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
whilst we are talking Teleflex gauges and if you have the newer dashboard (late 83 and up) and you can't seem to ever get the gauges clean looking, here is a 15 minute gauge cleaning tutorial:
1. Remove the screws (6 or so) holding the instrument panel in place.
2. carefully pull it away from the dash at the top until it hits your steering wheel or shifter
3. use a 3" piece wood or whatever to keep it there.
4. unscrew 3 10mm nuts and carefully remove them along with the washer
(if you drop them you will hate yourself)
5. Carefully move bracket piece holding all the gauges forward enough to be able to stick a rag in there soaked in windex.
6. Put it all back together and just be in awe.
One thing I'd like to add to Peter's list is a caution, at least for 84 and newer 310s and larger coaches. When pulling the dash outwards be careful to not pull to hard. If you meet resistance especially in the area of the heater controls what's happening is you're pulling against the heater valve control cable. If you pull to hard you can very easily pull the control assembly from the back side of the dash. When I got my old 310 the heater control assembly was busted away from the dash. It was a pain to replace. Just FYI.

Brad
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:48 PM   #1322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Where did you add the new gauges?
To the right of the steering column. The piece of trim was missing and you could see a big wire mess there. I made a replacement piece of trim and added the triple gauges in front of it. Sure is a lot of work to run all the different wires. (Besides all the stuff you find that needs fixing, while you dare to look behind the instrument panel )
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Old 12-01-2015, 04:41 AM   #1323
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Originally Posted by crazeevw View Post
After my car crash 3 years ago, I've decided that 3 point seatbelts are a necessity. Don't think my chest can survive contact with the steering wheel at speed, especially after sternum being broken from car accident.

Work has placed me in a WorkHorse '2-ton' vehicle, which has aluminum interior walls. There is a jump-seat on curbside with a 3 point seatbelt. Looking at the seatbelt installation on work vehicle, I've determined that with proper plates at the installation of the upper mount, at least I'll have some semblence of a 3 point seatbelt.

Found seatbelts online, took photos of jump-seat installation on WorkHorse for my installation. Of course, interior wall is substantially thicker than what we have, will go with thicker installation plate.

Will post pix when installed.

Thanks, Derek
Great addition! One possiblity would be to purchase, used of course, truck seats that have the upper seatbelt as a part of the seat.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:37 AM   #1324
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Following Martins lead I've decided to switch to a cassette style of toilet so I bought the Thetford C403 toilet and the Caontessa C400 basin.
Attachment 253112Attachment 253113

The toilet and basin combined will look like this.
Attachment 253114

3 cans of R-12 freon and a can of oil charge. I originally was going to switch to R-134a but decided to stick with R-12.
Attachment 253110Attachment 253111

Turn signal indicators for my dash instrument cluster rebuild.
Attachment 253109

Relays for added functionality on various devices.
Attachment 253108

Some of you may have seen one of these before
Attachment 253107

Teleflex LP gauge.
Attachment 253106

Teleflex 60 am ammeter.
Attachment 253105

I've also purchased a few other items I'll list in the near future.

What I probably need now is more storage space!


Brad
Years ago I wanted a cassette toilet and couldn't find one in the US. They work great, European style. I'm sure yours has outside access? To dump.?
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:07 AM   #1325
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Originally Posted by avionstream View Post
Years ago I wanted a cassette toilet and couldn't find one in the US. They work great, European style. I'm sure yours has outside access? To dump.?
Thetford supply OEM to a couple of manufacturers in the US (mainly those making pop-ups) but you are correct the only way to buy one in the US is to...

1) Get one surplus from the OEM guys
2) Buy the parts and build it yourself

The second option sounds crazy but actually because Thetford OEM the units you can actually buy all the spare parts to build one form folks like Camping USA. Also means all the parts you may want to replace over time (cassette, seat, etc) are available from pretty much any RV store.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:26 AM   #1326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
Great addition! One possiblity would be to purchase, used of course, truck seats that have the upper seatbelt as a part of the seat.

Cheers
Tony
Truck seats were a consideration at one time for me but then I opted to buy seats similar to Martin's that can rotate and fold down. In a 20ftr space is a premium

As for a 3-point seat belt arrangement I've decide to add reinforcement plates to the main rib that is located just behind the cockpit seats. The cab is made from 3/16" extruded aluminum channel. The entire cab is a welded structure from this aluminum channel.
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Since I have the interior skin removed in the cockpit area I've opted to add a 1/4" steel plate bent into a U shape. The plan is to bolt the U plate to the rib using two 1/4" hardened steel bolts. To hold the seat belt harness pivot I'll weld a 3/4" diameter support bar behind the U plate, drill and tap it for 7/16-20 thread. The aluminum rib will need a 3/4" hole drilled in the face of it as clearance for the 3/4" round bar.
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The following pictures show how I intend to mount the plate to the rib.
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An alternate method of attaching a seat belt strap to the rib is shown in the sketch below.
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This method would not require the removal of any interior skin and would likely be as strong as the first method. The shoulder portion of a seat belt is in shear should an accident occur so I think either of these methods will work.

I'm not a mechanical engineer but from what I've seen of seat belt installations in various vehicles either of these methods seems to be as good or better than many that I've seen.

Just my opinion of course

Brad
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:33 AM   #1327
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Originally Posted by avionstream View Post
Years ago I wanted a cassette toilet and couldn't find one in the US. They work great, European style. I'm sure yours has outside access? To dump.?
Yes, outside access is included. Here's a picture of Martin's Argosy with the Thetford cassette toilet and exterior access door.
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I'm blatantly plagiarizing Martin's renovation of his Argosy
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Old 12-01-2015, 01:56 PM   #1328
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I'm blatantly plagiarizing Martin's renovation of his Argosy
It's all good Brad

To be honest if I didn't live 950 miles away I think I would be camped outside your workshop every weekend helping!
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Old 12-01-2015, 02:50 PM   #1329
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It's all good Brad

To be honest if I didn't live 950 miles away I think I would be camped outside your workshop every weekend helping!
So park your Argosy here in Kentucky and commute back and forth...
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Old 12-01-2015, 04:09 PM   #1330
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You can joke but I have been looking at flights!
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Old 12-01-2015, 05:36 PM   #1331
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You can joke but I have been looking at flights!
Being an hour and a half to two hours to the closest airport does have it's disadvantages. But then again there area a LOT of advantages to not being that close!

You're welcome to park here anytime
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Old 12-02-2015, 06:00 AM   #1332
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Something else I purchased recently was a pair of tail lights from an 83 310 that was being parted out on ebay.

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The assemblies are in pretty good shape although I will replace the light assemblies with LEDs.

It's to bad Airstream got cheap and made the housings out of plastic. Back in the 70s Airstream was using cast aluminum housings for their tail light assemblies. This one is from a 73 trailer. Much much nicer.
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If anyone is interested in cast aluminum housings they can be bought from Airstream Supply.
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The nice thing about the ones from Airstream Supply is it appears they will directly replace the cheap plastic housings found on the Classics and they use the square lenses instead of the rounds ones.

Brad
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Old 12-02-2015, 06:41 AM   #1333
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Actually I don't think the housings from Airstream supply are cast aluminum. I believe they are the same housings used on the classics, in other words cheap plastic

Sorry about any confusion.

brad
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Old 12-02-2015, 05:29 PM   #1334
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Something else I purchased recently was a pair of tail lights from an 83 310 that was being parted out on ebay.
...

Brad
Whatever you paid for those was an excellent price, because those original lenses are hard to find. Yes, you can get some cheap plastic ones that don't really fit, unless I have been looking in the wrong places.
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Old 12-02-2015, 05:51 PM   #1335
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Peter

I bought Grote lenses # 90742 and they are the exact fit. They also have the backup lens but I don't have the number
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Old 12-02-2015, 06:20 PM   #1336
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Peter

I bought Grote lenses # 90742 and they are the exact fit. They also have the backup lens but I don't have the number
Thanks John, that does look like a perfect match. I have been trying to match the Monarch 9074 that is stamped on my old ones.
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:19 PM   #1337
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Ugh... Bum info on the Derale deep transmission pan...
Not a straight swap I found out today, as the rear edge hits the transmission X member.
I will have to relieve the X member about 3/8" at one spot to make it fit.
See my thread for an update probably tomorrow!
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:57 PM   #1338
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Ugh... Bum info on the Derale deep transmission pan...
Not a straight swap I found out today, as the rear edge hits the transmission X member.
I will have to relieve the X member about 3/8" at one spot to make it fit.
See my thread for an update probably tomorrow!
Nothing my trusted sawzall couldn't fix. I just looked at mine and yes it looks like about 2" x 3/8" needs to be removed. Doesn't appear to have any bearing on the integrity of the cross member.
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:02 PM   #1339
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Nothing my trusted sawzall couldn't fix. I just looked at mine and yes it looks like about 2" x 3/8" needs to be removed. Doesn't appear to have any bearing on the integrity of the cross member.
Yup, thanks for the understanding Peter... Angle grinder/sawzall to the rescue!
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:18 AM   #1340
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It will be interesting to see if I'll need to do the same thing on my Argosy. I'll have to check once I get back in town next week.

Brad
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