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Old 02-02-2015, 12:55 PM   #1221
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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Thanks Mike but you are making me blush. I'm just trying to keep the old hunk of aluminum going down the highway.

Actually secondary braking systems are common in Europe. They are required on all buses, fire trucks and rescue vehicles. Jake or compression brakes are common on highway trucks here but buses usually don't have anything and about the only thing available to RV's is exhaust brakes. The electro magnetic units are expensive but provide more braking power than all the others. It's interesting how our regulators seem more interested in safety after you crash rather then preventing the crash.
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:43 PM   #1222
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.... I paid $200 including all the controls, mounts and 2 drive shafts. .....
The plot gets thicker...2 drive shafts. And they just happen to be the same length as your 28' Airstream? I also was wondering about the power consumption. It most be tremendous, do you have to upgrade to a like 130 amp alternator? Since it has that 4 stage switch you mentioned, meaning it being active at all times, would it not put extra strain on the u-joints.
Gosh all those questions, see thats what you get for having a name like you have
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:32 PM   #1223
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Alright lets get this straight, the name is because I have two smart cars which I had before I got the Airstream. My name on the Canadian smart forum is smartie yank because I bought one of the first legally converted smarts in the US nearly 3 years before they were imported here.

Now to the Telma. My moho has a 2 piece driveshaft with a slip joint just aft of the carrier bearing. The Telma replaces the carrier bearing and requires a slip joint in each shaft so that they can be installed and removed without removing the Telma. It also requires flanges at the retarder. The shafts will have to be cut to size but the slip joints and flanges and u-joint yolks can be reused so I all I have to provide is the tube.

The power draw is 45 amps per stage but it is only drawn while the unit is energized, maybe 10 seconds +or - when you stop. It de-energizes when your speed drops below 2 or 3 mph. A long downgrade would be longer but I doubt you would ever energize more than one stage and remember you have to climb in order to descend and the old Isuzu is pretty slow uphill so I have lots of recharge time. The bus I used to drive belonged to the Senior Center and I would drive to ball games and events in Seattle and lots of stop and go traffic. A lot more stop than go and never really had a problem. A normal stop might only energize 2 stages. A hard stop might see the 3 rd. stage light up. Lighting up 4 stages would result in quite a reaction from the little blue haired ladies in the back. I certainly would like a higher output alternator but with the amount of open road driving in the moho I don't think it will be a big issue. Maybe somewhere down the road.

It will load the u-joints more but no more than any of the newer diesel pickups and yes the u-joints will see more wear but they are relatively cheap and it will be offset by the savings in brake wear.

Hi hope this thins out the plot a bit.
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:45 PM   #1224
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Nope, no friction material at all, just good old fashion electromagnetic eddy currents. Rollercoasters use them to stop. I just finished reading up on them and asked Dan for more info. Pretty cool but very expensive.



Eddy current brake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



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Mercedes installs these on their Sprinter vans in Europe.
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Old 02-02-2015, 08:03 PM   #1225
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Mercedes installs these on their Sprinter vans in Europe.
Yup and if I read right a number of people picking up used UPS/FedEx or DHL Sprinter/Freightliner/Merc cargo vans have found their vans equipped with the induction braking system. See link below.

do you have a "telma-retarder"? - Sprinter-Forum

See what you have started Dan

Here's a really good video on the subject....



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Old 02-02-2015, 08:12 PM   #1226
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Dan,

Thanks for sharing all this information... great stuff! I am looking at the focal application because with a diesel pusher the axial is not really an option. I am just glad to see this option. I will keep an eye out for a setup, but am currently quite happy with my setup using an exhaust brake and proactive driving. I see this and think... less brake pad wear.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:17 AM   #1227
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Now that you guys are all jazzed about these things you are welcome to bring your coveralls and you can get real intimate with one of them while I try to install it.
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:52 AM   #1228
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To bad it's not a regenerative braking system.
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:57 AM   #1229
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If I was close AND you have a heated shop I would love to assist. After a couple hours though you would probably start charging me for my help.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:34 AM   #1230
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If I was close AND you have a heated shop I would love to assist. After a couple hours though you would probably start charging me for my help.
I do have a heated shop but it has been so warm I haven't turned it on so far this year. The other problem is it would require quite a bit of shuffling around some old cars and tractors to make room for the moho. The Airstream lives under a canopy out back and if it gets too cold the work gets put off for a few days. Around here deadlines are flexible.
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:41 PM   #1231
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Accentuating the Curves

Today I finished installing day/night blinds using home-made curved wood channels that hold the blinds tightly against the curved AS wall. Used curly maple wood. Have also replaced the original table (made out of heavy particle board) with a lighter and more curved maple one. A final touch was adding the two cup holders in the repainted and repaired molded wall piece. It seems that it doesn't take much to make these 30+ year old classics look pretty cool.
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:53 PM   #1232
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Today I finished installing day/night blinds using home-made curved wood channels that hold the blinds tightly against the curved AS wall. Used curly maple wood. Have also replaced the original table (made out of heavy particle board) with a lighter and more curved maple one. A final touch was adding the two cup holders in the repainted and repaired molded wall piece. It seems that it doesn't take much to make these 30+ year old classics look pretty cool.

That is really nice! Great job!


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Old 03-02-2015, 04:29 PM   #1233
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Nice!


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Old 03-02-2015, 05:08 PM   #1234
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Great idea!
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:32 PM   #1235
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Originally Posted by ArtFJ1 View Post
Today I finished installing day/night blinds using home-made curved wood channels that hold the blinds tightly against the curved AS wall. Used curly maple wood. Have also replaced the original table (made out of heavy particle board) with a lighter and more curved maple one. A final touch was adding the two cup holders in the repainted and repaired molded wall piece. It seems that it doesn't take much to make these 30+ year old classics look pretty cool.
Gorgeous! I might steal that idea! Much nicer then what came out of the factory.
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:47 PM   #1236
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Gorgeous! I might steal that idea! Much nicer then what came out of the factory.
Your most welcome to steal it. If you do, the main thing I would do different would be to get true cordless blinds. The ones that blindschalet list under their rv tab have these tension strings that you really don't need if you make these wood channels.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:37 PM   #1237
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Weather delayed?

As I follow everyones progress on their winter projects, I often wonder why I can't seem to make much headway with my own….. but sometimes the answer is obvious.
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:03 AM   #1238
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As I follow everyones progress on their winter projects, I often wonder why I can't seem to make much headway with my own….. but sometimes the answer is obvious.

Wow!


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Old 03-05-2015, 05:05 AM   #1239
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As I follow everyones progress on their winter projects, I often wonder why I can't seem to make much headway with my own….. but sometimes the answer is obvious.
Your front airbags seem to be low
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:16 AM   #1240
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I hear ya...

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