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Old 04-20-2011, 10:00 PM   #71
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
Geez, Dan, you've put on 570 WHOLE miles, what a road king! We'll be up in Port Hadlock soon, time for a Fat Smitty burger.
I know Mike but it wasn't really a trip, we just went up overnight for a doctors appointment. The seats did feel a lot better than the 30 year old factory seats.

If you didn't run away every winter you could have a Fat Smitty anytime you get the urge.

Cheers. Dan
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:32 PM   #72
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One last little fix for the wipers. The shaft for the pivot is held in the pivot housing by a very small snap ring. on the drivers side the off angle action of the link tends to pull the shaft in on the up stroke of the wiper and push it out on the down stroke. Before long the groove that holds the snap ring wears enough so that the ring pops out and slides down the shaft. Now the shaft pulls in until the wiper arm hits the housing and back out with every sweep of the wiper.

I got a 3/8" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. bronze bushing at the local hardware store and cut it about 9/16" long. Remove the wiper arm and slip the bushing over the pivot shaft and reinstall the wiper arm. The bushing will push the snap ring back down the shaft where it belongs and keep it there. The bushing O.D. fits nicely in the rubber cover and you save $35 for a new pivot and don't have to experience the joy of removing he pivot and installing a new one.

In the picture the snap ring is on the shaft inside the housing at arrow (a). The bushing slides over the shaft (b) and fits nicely inside the housing and keeps the snap ring where it belongs.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:56 AM   #73
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Another modification to the wipers was a new link for the drivers side wiper. The original link was bent like a pretzel and used to have nylon bushings for the joints. The nylon no longer exists and is not available, the new links have a pressed in bronze bushing.

A new link about the right length is available but it is straight and not adjustable. Also because the pivot is mounted around the radius of the front of the coach the alignment to the link is not true or constant as the pivot arm moves. I didn't think this would be a good set up so I fabricated a new link.

I purchased a short link from AM Equipment so I had the proper bronze bushings. I then got a piece of 1/2" square thin wall steel tubing and cut a diagonal slot and welded in one half of the short link with the new bushing. For the other end I welded in a solid steel slug to fill the tube and drilled and tapped a 5/16" thread. I installed a heavy duty ball joint linkage from McMaster Carr. This gave me a ball swivel to accommodate the changing alignment angle to the pivot arm and also the threaded shank allows some adjustment to the length of the link. I did have to put a slight bend in my link to clear a brace but it's much straighter than the original.

The pictures show the old link next to the new, the slug drilled and tapped to receive the ball swivel,, the link installed, a close up showing the alignment of the link to the pivot arm and a drawing of the ball swivel.
Sorry about the installed pictures but you have to lean in the front hatch under the windshield while standing on your head to see anything.

I assume the original nylon bushings could accommodate the misalignment of the link and pivot arm but the new bronze bushings are way too rigid to work properly. The whole setup costs me about $45 and a few hours in my shop and seems to work really well.

Cheers, Dan



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Old 04-25-2011, 03:27 PM   #74
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You know what I find a little crazy....
The back of the main Chassis fusebox is almost right inline with the grill.... and gets wet if you drive in the rain!
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:13 PM   #75
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You know what I find a little crazy....
The back of the main Chassis fusebox is almost right inline with the grill.... and gets wet if you drive in the rain!
there should be a rubber, protective, insulation curtain between the top, under dash and rail above the radiator to protect that area.

someone posted a picture and they had replaced the original with an aluminum, or silver insulation material.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:31 PM   #76
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I would love to see a pic of that!
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:00 PM   #77
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Here's the cover on my 90 345LE.

Top pic is L side, Bottom pic is R side. It is one piece but I had to do it this way because I couldn't fit it in one picture.

It's rubber and I believe it's factory installed.

Hope this is what you wanted to see.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:49 PM   #78
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tricky to see...
I hangs down and seals against the top of the radiator?
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:51 PM   #79
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More Storage finds!
Again in my box of Chevy Big Block goodies!
Micky Thompson Alloy finned Valve Covers!
Not sure if these would work... they would not fit on my Suburaban because they fouled the Brake booster..These were not the ones I wanted to find... I have some black finished cast valve covers with similar vanes, but have not found them yet!
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:38 PM   #80
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Here's the cover on my 90 345LE.

Top pic is L side, Bottom pic is R side. It is one piece but I had to do it this way because I couldn't fit it in one picture.

It's rubber and I believe it's factory installed.

Hope this is what you wanted to see.
Interesting that they cover the center over the fuse block and leave the terminal strip "to the right in the bottom picture". I wonder if they were more concerned with air flow through the radiator than protecting the electrics.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:40 AM   #81
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Here's the cover on my 90 345LE.

Top pic is L side, Bottom pic is R side. It is one piece but I had to do it this way because I couldn't fit it in one picture.

It's rubber and I believe it's factory installed.

Hope this is what you wanted to see.
Exactly the way Mine was Manufactured.
thank You for posting the Picture
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:24 PM   #82
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Cooling fan project, detailing

this fan will draw hot air from the dog house, engine area

After the engine is turned OFF

Tomorrows Project
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:30 PM   #83
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Look what fed Ex delivered this AM

So we went to work, removed Original seats. greased and cleaned the adjustable seat mechanism.
cleaned the carpet and set the New ones from discount RV. truck
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:35 PM   #84
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tricky to see...
I hangs down and seals against the top of the radiator?
Keyair-Agree, hard to see from pic's. I went back out and measured the rubber curtain: 42" across, 13 1/2" high. Solid piece with holes cut for hoses, etc. then uses self tappers, top to a cross piece of angle iron, bottom to radiator support.

Nice seats John, let us know how they work after a few journeys. My fronts are overdue. Seeing how clean you guys have your engine compartments just made my to-do list longer.
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