Installed a new Stant 195 degree thermostat yesterday. Removed the off brand junker I installed last November. Cleaned the K&N air filter. Taking the 345 to the track this weekend, instructing on Saturday.
I love this machine!
Keyair !
I notice you've bought the 'Wrinkle Plus' stuff.
Have you used it before ?
It can be rather tricky to use ( as you might know (?))
as one doesn't quite know what the finished result will look like.
It takes hours for the 'wrinkles' to form.
I've had to re-do things a couple of times using that stuff.
It's kind'a hard to get an even 'wrinkle'-effect.
Here I used it on the fork top of my INDIAN Bonneville bike
Shortly after applying:
after about 24 hours:
The finish does look reeeeeally nice if one succeeds.
Good luck !
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“If you don’t follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable” Burt Munro
Naaaa: guess that if you've tried it before with another brand, them you'll know what to do. The trick is to put on an even and rather thick layer. More so than with ordinary rattle-can paint. if no wrinkles develops within a short while you know you've put on too little. Sometimes you can save the situation by adding some more.......but tricky it is
__________________
“If you don’t follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable” Burt Munro
Well, I found something COOL and Airstream worthy in my storage...
It was with my '73 Blazer when I got it, and I assumed it was only for the SBC 350.
It seems I could use it on my Airstream!
Need to do some research now on it!
More stuff from a while back that I had not posted...
I have been busy too....
Started my Quadrajet rebuild!
Ready... set.... GO!
Well these actually arrived last week but we took a short trip to Vancouver B.C. to try them out. Here are a few pics. The first is the pedestal that I had to shorten 4" because I got the 6-way power adjuster for the drivers seat. I also had to fabricate a new mount as the tracks on the power adjuster are wider than on the manual adjust.
The chairs are from Discount Van & Truck with the high resilience foam, adjustable arm rests, lumbar support and seat heaters. After 575 miles they are comfortable and I am happy.
Also added a couple of months ago a new switch for the wipers. It was about $80 from AM Equipment and converts from separate switches for each wiper to a single switch to control both wipers. It also has an intermittent wiper function. A big improvement over the original set up. I just have to find something to fill the empty hole where the extra switch used to live.
Another modification to the wipers was a new link for the drivers side wiper. The original link was bent like a pretzel and used to have nylon bushings for the joints. The nylon no longer exists and is not available, the new links have a pressed in bronze bushing.
A new link about the right length is available but it is straight and not adjustable. Also because the pivot is mounted around the radius of the front of the coach the alignment to the link is not true or constant as the pivot arm moves. I didn't think this would be a good set up so I fabricated a new link.
I purchased a short link from AM Equipment so I had the proper bronze bushings. I then got a piece of 1/2" square thin wall steel tubing and cut a diagonal slot and welded in one half of the short link with the new bushing. For the other end I welded in a solid steel slug to fill the tube and drilled and tapped a 5/16" thread. I installed a heavy duty ball joint linkage from McMaster Carr. This gave me a ball swivel to accommodate the changing alignment angle to the pivot arm and also the threaded shank allows some adjustment to the length of the link. I did have to put a slight bend in my link to clear a brace but it's much straighter than the original.
The pictures show the old link next to the new, the slug drilled and tapped to receive the ball swivel,, the link installed, a close up showing the alignment of the link to the pivot arm and a drawing of the ball swivel.
Sorry about the installed pictures but you have to lean in the front hatch under the windshield while standing on your head to see anything.
I assume the original nylon bushings could accommodate the misalignment of the link and pivot arm but the new bronze bushings are way too rigid to work properly. The whole setup costs me about $45 and a few hours in my shop and seems to work really well.
Geez, Dan, you've put on 570 WHOLE miles, what a road king! We'll be up in Port Hadlock soon, time for a Fat Smitty burger.
I know Mike but it wasn't really a trip, we just went up overnight for a doctors appointment. The seats did feel a lot better than the 30 year old factory seats.
If you didn't run away every winter you could have a Fat Smitty anytime you get the urge.
One last little fix for the wipers. The shaft for the pivot is held in the pivot housing by a very small snap ring. on the drivers side the off angle action of the link tends to pull the shaft in on the up stroke of the wiper and push it out on the down stroke. Before long the groove that holds the snap ring wears enough so that the ring pops out and slides down the shaft. Now the shaft pulls in until the wiper arm hits the housing and back out with every sweep of the wiper.
I got a 3/8" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. bronze bushing at the local hardware store and cut it about 9/16" long. Remove the wiper arm and slip the bushing over the pivot shaft and reinstall the wiper arm. The bushing will push the snap ring back down the shaft where it belongs and keep it there. The bushing O.D. fits nicely in the rubber cover and you save $35 for a new pivot and don't have to experience the joy of removing he pivot and installing a new one.
In the picture the snap ring is on the shaft inside the housing at arrow (a). The bushing slides over the shaft (b) and fits nicely inside the housing and keeps the snap ring where it belongs.
Another modification to the wipers was a new link for the drivers side wiper. The original link was bent like a pretzel and used to have nylon bushings for the joints. The nylon no longer exists and is not available, the new links have a pressed in bronze bushing.
A new link about the right length is available but it is straight and not adjustable. Also because the pivot is mounted around the radius of the front of the coach the alignment to the link is not true or constant as the pivot arm moves. I didn't think this would be a good set up so I fabricated a new link.
I purchased a short link from AM Equipment so I had the proper bronze bushings. I then got a piece of 1/2" square thin wall steel tubing and cut a diagonal slot and welded in one half of the short link with the new bushing. For the other end I welded in a solid steel slug to fill the tube and drilled and tapped a 5/16" thread. I installed a heavy duty ball joint linkage from McMaster Carr. This gave me a ball swivel to accommodate the changing alignment angle to the pivot arm and also the threaded shank allows some adjustment to the length of the link. I did have to put a slight bend in my link to clear a brace but it's much straighter than the original.
The pictures show the old link next to the new, the slug drilled and tapped to receive the ball swivel,, the link installed, a close up showing the alignment of the link to the pivot arm and a drawing of the ball swivel.
Sorry about the installed pictures but you have to lean in the front hatch under the windshield while standing on your head to see anything.
I assume the original nylon bushings could accommodate the misalignment of the link and pivot arm but the new bronze bushings are way too rigid to work properly. The whole setup costs me about $45 and a few hours in my shop and seems to work really well.
You know what I find a little crazy....
The back of the main Chassis fusebox is almost right inline with the grill.... and gets wet if you drive in the rain!
You know what I find a little crazy....
The back of the main Chassis fusebox is almost right inline with the grill.... and gets wet if you drive in the rain!
there should be a rubber, protective, insulation curtain between the top, under dash and rail above the radiator to protect that area.
someone posted a picture and they had replaced the original with an aluminum, or silver insulation material.
More Storage finds!
Again in my box of Chevy Big Block goodies!
Micky Thompson Alloy finned Valve Covers!
Not sure if these would work... they would not fit on my Suburaban because they fouled the Brake booster..These were not the ones I wanted to find... I have some black finished cast valve covers with similar vanes, but have not found them yet!
Top pic is L side, Bottom pic is R side. It is one piece but I had to do it this way because I couldn't fit it in one picture.
It's rubber and I believe it's factory installed.
Hope this is what you wanted to see.
Interesting that they cover the center over the fuse block and leave the terminal strip "to the right in the bottom picture". I wonder if they were more concerned with air flow through the radiator than protecting the electrics.
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