Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-12-2015, 09:00 PM   #15
Rivet Loser
 
Punch's Avatar
 
La Ronge , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 328
OK, Eric.... I apologize sincerely. Cornflakes probably have nowhere near the nutritional value of rotted OSB.......

Science can go eat its own cornflakes.

=======================

Dave.... thanks for the link to your cabin floor fix... wow! That looks just like mine! I am still hoping the driver side is sounder having removed much carpet and not found rot, but I won't be placing any bets.

Are you sure it is the side window seals? My rot seems to originate right at the front in the foot air vent area, although it could just have crept forward to there.

I looked at the AC drain hose, shown below, and pushed a thin wire up it. My wire went up about 32" above the steel subfloor plate level before meeting resistance I couldn't wiggle past. That seems pretty far.

drain hose.JPG


I don't know how to get at the connection point between this hose and the AC unit..... is it behind this plate, that looks as if it is secured by a dozen screws or so?

front rot 02.jpg

My floor on the passenger side looks just like yours. I shall hopefully have time to cut the rot out tomorrow and get some caulk and sound material in there. Luckily the wood seems sound near both seat belt attachment points.

front rot 01.JPG


Keeping my fingers crossed on the driver side!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	drain hose.JPG
Views:	49
Size:	130.0 KB
ID:	247951   Click image for larger version

Name:	front rot 02.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	185.8 KB
ID:	247952  

Click image for larger version

Name:	front rot 01.JPG
Views:	48
Size:	184.5 KB
ID:	247953  
__________________

__________________
Bob
1989 345LE
Punch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 08:17 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
wxbuoy's Avatar
 
1991 35' Airstream 350
Carriere , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,205
Send a message via Skype™ to wxbuoy
Bob, to rule out the a/c. You will have to take off the inside cover. You will see we're the rubber tube exits the drain pan. Disconnect and blow air through. Helpful if some one is at other end as we to see if air is coming out or tube is broke somewhere in wall. For window drains you can put a small cup below tube by front wheels. Then spray windows with water. You are looking for water in the cup.... Draining from window slides out through tube and water/wetness inside floor by panel.

Panels are easy to take off.... Once chairs are out haha!
__________________

__________________
Dave and Felicia
wxbuoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 09:37 PM   #17
Rivet Loser
 
Punch's Avatar
 
La Ronge , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 328
Thanks Dave.... I shall follow your directions.
__________________
Bob
1989 345LE
Punch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 07:32 AM   #18
Rivet Loser
 
Punch's Avatar
 
La Ronge , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 328
It looks as if the whole problem has been due to the passenger side window drain hose being blocked. I managed eventually to get thin wire down it and it drains fine, but must have been blocked for years and years and years......
This seems to be something to check on an annual basis at least, and is very easy. The drain hole is visible in the window channel in the front section and 3 foot of thin wire should wiggle its way down there..... I squirted silicon grease down the hole to help the wire on its way.

I removed the vinyl panel

Click image for larger version

Name:	panel.JPG
Views:	50
Size:	158.6 KB
ID:	248620

Shouldn't have.... didn't need to. Now I'll have a lot of rivets to replace. Actually I shall attempt to replace the rivets with screws, so that the job will be easy next time. To remove the panel, you have to drill out the vertical line of rivets at the rear edge of the panel, and then remove (gently, with a thin, flat paint scraper) the thin woodgrain plastic, then remove the central plastic panel behind the woodgrain, then drill out all the top horizontal line of rivets. The panel then lifts up for pulling outwards. There are more rivets at the front that I did not bother removing, because the panel will now swing out for access. Don't do it unless you have to.

This was a nice motorhome when I bought it.... but it doesn't look so pretty now!

Click image for larger version

Name:	passenger.JPG
Views:	48
Size:	218.6 KB
ID:	248621

...... but at least the driver's side doesn't look bad at all.

Click image for larger version

Name:	driver.JPG
Views:	52
Size:	181.1 KB
ID:	248622


Almost at the shopvac stage. A little more disaster restoration than I had anticipated.
__________________
Bob
1989 345LE
Punch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 11:39 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
streamquest's Avatar

 
1936 20' Clipper
1947 22' Liner
Curtis Wright
1989 37' Airstream 370
marshfield , Massachusetts
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 729
Bob,

Glad to hear that you found the source of the leak. It's amazing how you can go from a nicely carpeted interior to a demolition project so quickly!

If it makes you feel any better, mine was MUCH worse on BOTH sides.
__________________
streamquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2015, 06:18 AM   #20
Airstream Driver
 
PeterH-Airstreamer's Avatar

 
1997 30' Excella
1983 31' Airstream310
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,373
Images: 51
In the long run, it may be more prudent to leave some strategic drains with a screen to keep the critters out...
My first Moho, a 79 Excella did not have the factory installed drain tubes. I finally gave up chasing some persistent leaks and installed a small funnel in the wall connected to a tube in the right front area. Got you sucker!
__________________
1990 29' Excella Trailer
1996 Airstream B190
1997 30' Excella Trailer
AIR #13
PeterH-Airstreamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2015, 08:44 AM   #21
Rivet Loser
 
Punch's Avatar
 
La Ronge , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 328
That's odd..... I lost my whole post! I'll try again.

==========================

That's cheered me up, Streamquest, thanks. I am grateful it is no worse than I have found so far.

Peter.... I am indeed planning on the extra drain holes, since I believe that all RVs leak in multiple places and no one ever thought to build a bilge into one, that I know of. I am patching with heavy rubber stall matting, held down by very adhesive butyl caulk, but shall leave a gap and a series of dimpled drainholes down the edge, including on the main level since my leak had seeped all the way to the outside door.

How did you make your tunnel in the wall?
__________________
Bob
1989 345LE
Punch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2015, 12:00 PM   #22
Airstream Driver
 
PeterH-Airstreamer's Avatar

 
1997 30' Excella
1983 31' Airstream310
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,373
Images: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Punch View Post
...

How did you make your tunnel in the wall?

Funnel in the area where I knew of issues connected to plastic tubing out the floor
__________________
1990 29' Excella Trailer
1996 Airstream B190
1997 30' Excella Trailer
AIR #13
PeterH-Airstreamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2015, 10:44 PM   #23
Rivet Master
 
streamquest's Avatar

 
1936 20' Clipper
1947 22' Liner
Curtis Wright
1989 37' Airstream 370
marshfield , Massachusetts
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 729
When talking drains….. More is always better.

To add additional window track drains, I used a portion of what I recall to be a small brass compression fitting. It's like a short section of brass tube with a widened funnel shaped end. I drilled a slightly chamfered hole in the track, and epoxied the fitting into place. The portion of it that passed downward through the track was perfect for attaching a length of rubber tubing to drain water out through the floor. Sorry… I wasn't taking pics at the time.
__________________
streamquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2015, 11:21 PM   #24
Rivet Loser
 
Punch's Avatar
 
La Ronge , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 328
I like that suggestion. I guess you can use a flaring tool and brake pipe or similar tubing.
__________________

__________________
Bob
1989 345LE
Punch is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hooked up water in winter and can't get water pump to pump water mrpettit Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 8 05-06-2015 07:46 PM
hot water water on demand with a with a normal water heater Frank's Trailer Works Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 3 09-25-2007 01:24 AM
Water Leak above Black water tank temcotom Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 1 06-30-2005 12:03 AM
Dual Gray Water & Dual Black Water? nvestysly Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 5 05-09-2003 06:40 AM
Water Heater & Water Tank mgordon Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 23 01-15-2003 07:58 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.