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Old 08-18-2006, 07:21 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carnegie1935
Thanks Steven and Tim . I put a new blade connector and it made good connection. It still wouldn't light. I didn't have any power to the ignitor board. I went inside and checked the temp control. It was ok. I am not sure what I did to fix it , but it works now. It must have been a loose wire.

Now I need to get a new pressure relief valve as it is dripping now that the water is getting hot.

Thanks again

Kay
Kay,

Two suggestions: First, if your water heater fails to work again, loosen every electrical connection you see inside the cover door and put either silicone dielectric, vaseline, or even WD40 everywhere a screw or wire contact anything else. It's very easy for surface corrosion to develop in that environment. Second, before you replace the pressure relief valve pop it a few times open and closed very quickly. Many times they drip because there's a tiny piece of mineral deposit where it seals. Popping it a few times will solve the problem quite often.

Best,
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Old 08-19-2006, 09:50 AM   #58
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If you relief valve is leaking, it could be that the water heater needs to be 'burped" - have the air gap restored. This proceedure is described in my water heater manual. Let me know if you need this info.
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Old 08-19-2006, 01:15 PM   #59
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I popped the relief valve and that did not stop the drip. Can you put the burp information here or do you need to send it email or fax. PM me if you need an address. I don't look forward to replaceing the valve but I don't want it to continue to drip. Thanks

Kay
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Old 08-19-2006, 08:01 PM   #60
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Attached .pdf explains procedure

Found this on the Atwood site.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf pressure.pdf (102.2 KB, 56 views)
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Old 08-19-2006, 10:28 PM   #61
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Thanks Guy99. This sounds like my problem. I will try this in the AM.
It only drips when the water is heating. Thanks again

Kay
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:20 AM   #62
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Quit again

My heater worked for several days and I burped it as Atwood directed. Got quite a bit of water out.

It had quit again and I have no voltage to any of the controls. I have 12 v at all the fuses in the 13.5 v panel. the swith would light up for an instant but not no light at all. I am wondering if the switch is bad. I took it loose from the wall and didn't know how to test it. ( I didn't take the wires off )

Any ideas would be great. Thanks

Kay
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Old 06-30-2007, 04:58 PM   #63
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I have a new G6A-8E to install - no manual. Would appreciate a copy of MPD93756
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Old 06-30-2007, 07:21 PM   #64
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I found 93755 which covers your model. PM me your email address and
I will email it to you.
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