Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-28-2006, 12:42 PM   #43
Rivet Master
 
noiva's Avatar
 
Chesapeake , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 626
Images: 46
Spelling and Parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
You must just LOVE reading all of my spelling mistakes! I just tell people that I can think faster than I can type. Most seem to buy it

Steven,

Frankly, I'm usually so busy trying to concentrate on what I'm learning from everyone, I rarely even notice spelling mistakes. As my brother (President of a University) says, "If I had a penny for every typo..." This forum has been so good to me, that spelling isn't one of my big worries. I did want to make sure no one went out an tried to buy any "dilectric", however . Of course, if your parts guys are as smart as the ones I go to, it probably wouldn't matter . That's not always true, to be fair, but I have noticed I usually know a lot more about what I want than they do about what they have. A little scary sometimes .
__________________

__________________
Tim
1987 30P
2003 Suburban 2500
AIR # 5648
noiva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2006, 07:02 AM   #44
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 52
Update.

Well I found the switch to water heater in the bathroom. The red light is inoperable but the switch did have power. For some reason the PO or PPO had installed a Y-connection at the tank supply and another at the hot water out connection. These connections were brass with a valve that would send water to the tank or bypass the tank completely. not sure why they wanted to do this but regardless these valves restricted the water flow to the point that no water was flowing at the low pressures our systems operate on. I removed the bypasses and now water flowed to the tank and then to the faucets.

With that problem solved, the proper operation of the heater could be found out and much to my surprise and relief the heater fired up immediately and did a fine job of heating water.

The wife will be very happy that we have hot water and I am glad I do not have to spring for a new water heater.

Thanks for all the help. Next up on the plumbing system will be to install an insta-hot but that is down on the list for getting ready for spring break.
__________________

__________________
Honkity Hank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2006, 07:41 AM   #45
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by noiva
Sorry to everyone on this thread that I've been spelling DIELECTRIC incorrectly.
It has been fixed.
You're welcome....
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2006, 08:04 AM   #46
Rivet Monster
 
wahoonc's Avatar

 
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,174
Images: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by noiva
Sorry to everyone on this thread that I've been spelling DIELECTRIC incorrectly. In looking back over my posts, I realized something didn't look quite right. Sure enough, I'd been misspelling dielectric as "dilectric"-which isn't even a word. I'm sure it's not my last mistake on this forum , but a former school teacher really should do better .
Novia,
My dad has a sticker on his brief case..."another brilliant mind ruined by higher education" this from a man that has 2 PhD's BTW you are retired? You shouldn't have to worry about spelling

Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
wahoonc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2006, 09:00 AM   #47
Rivet Master
 
noiva's Avatar
 
Chesapeake , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 626
Images: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Novia,
My dad has a sticker on his brief case..."another brilliant mind ruined by higher education" this from a man that has 2 PhD's BTW you are retired? You shouldn't have to worry about spelling

Aaron
Aaron,

I feel much better. Also, I am retired, so now I have an excuse. I'll just tell everyone I have been officially approved by Aaron !

Thanks,
__________________
Tim
1987 30P
2003 Suburban 2500
AIR # 5648
noiva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2006, 09:05 AM   #48
Rivet Master
 
noiva's Avatar
 
Chesapeake , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 626
Images: 46
Honkity Hank,

(Quote)For some reason the PO or PPO had installed a Y-connection at the tank supply and another at the hot water out connection. These connections were brass with a valve that would send water to the tank or bypass the tank completely. not sure why they wanted to do this(quote)

That's a bypass kit for winterizing the water system with non-toxic antifreeze, which some people do. Apparently, your's had gummed up over the years. Your kit may be perfectly OK once you take a good look at them, perhaps the valves were in the wrong positions or gunked up. Anyway, if you decide to, you can always reinstall it later. A new one is cheap, if yours is ruined (unlikely), and you want to use that system of winterizing.

Glad you got things going.

Best,
__________________
Tim
1987 30P
2003 Suburban 2500
AIR # 5648
noiva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2006, 09:27 AM   #49
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 52
Okay, that makes sense now, the valves have very small passageways, probably only about an 1/8" or so in diameter, they functioned properly but just did not allow enough water to flow. I may look for larger valves or just bypass the water tank when winterizing if we do that. Did not do that this year but we did not have long period of cold weather either so maybe just got lucky on that end.

One interesting feature of the water heater I have is that it must have an automatic thermostat, no temperature contols were found.

Jeff
__________________
Honkity Hank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2006, 11:05 PM   #50
Rivet Master
 
noiva's Avatar
 
Chesapeake , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 626
Images: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Honkity Hank
Okay, that makes sense now, the valves have very small passageways, probably only about an 1/8" or so in diameter, they functioned properly but just did not allow enough water to flow. I may look for larger valves or just bypass the water tank when winterizing if we do that. Did not do that this year but we did not have long period of cold weather either so maybe just got lucky on that end.

One interesting feature of the water heater I have is that it must have an automatic thermostat, no temperature contols were found.

Jeff
Jeff,

I've never used the non-toxic antifreeze in my 30 years of having an RV. I always blow my water lines out thoroughly with a compressor set about 60 psi using an air plug adapter at the water inlet, and have never had a freeze related problem. We don't have severe winters here in southeast VA, but it does go well down into the 20s from time to time. My water heater has a bypass kit, but I haven't had any trouble with limited water flow. Are you talking about small passageways on the bypass or where the main water lines go into the back of the heater? The main lines usually come off the bypass valves through larger openings than the ones for the bypass position. The size of the bypass lines shouldn't affect your water flow unless the bypass valves are partially closed. Without seeing what you've got, it's hard to give you any more help about the limited flow. You are correct about the automatic thermostats on most electronic ignition water heaters. The Atwood heaters, in my experience, have been set quite high, so I've never had to worry about water not being hot enough.

Best,
__________________
Tim
1987 30P
2003 Suburban 2500
AIR # 5648
noiva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2006, 11:58 AM   #51
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 52
Perhaps the bypass valves are different on mine or they were installed wrong but I did not get any significant flow when they were in place no matter which way the valve was turned, and with them removed the flow is fine. Not having a bypass probably will not be an issue especially if we purge the lines as you do. Besides the unit is probably going to end up inside during the winter where it will not be subject to extended low temps which we rarely get here in Atlanta.

Good to have that little project done, another couple of days and the coach should be ready for a spring cleaning and then the trip to Florida.
__________________
Honkity Hank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2006, 12:15 PM   #52
Rivet Master
 
noiva's Avatar
 
Chesapeake , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 626
Images: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Honkity Hank
Perhaps the bypass valves are different on mine or they were installed wrong but I did not get any significant flow when they were in place no matter which way the valve was turned, and with them removed the flow is fine. Not having a bypass probably will not be an issue especially if we purge the lines as you do. Besides the unit is probably going to end up inside during the winter where it will not be subject to extended low temps which we rarely get here in Atlanta.

Good to have that little project done, another couple of days and the coach should be ready for a spring cleaning and then the trip to Florida.
Hank,

I've been trailering for many years before I got this Airstream MoHo. Never had a bypass kit until now. You can blow out the system just as well without the bypass. In fact, the bypass is there if you use the non-toxic antifreeze so you won't waste 6 gallons in the water heater. Keep us posted on how the trip to Florida goes. We're doing our spring trip in April, but it will be a local run over to Newport News, VA. Lots of Revolutionary and War Between the States (wrongly a.k.a. Civil War) stuff over there.

Best,
__________________
Tim
1987 30P
2003 Suburban 2500
AIR # 5648
noiva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2006, 02:01 PM   #53
3 Rivet Member
 
1983 30' Airstream 300
Plantersville , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 238
broken wire

The wireing blade that attaches to the ignition in the lower right has broken off. my unit has 2 of those round items that appear on the silver L shape in lower right side.

1# Do I need to buy a new ignition piece and where may they be available

2# could I solder a new blade to the existing post or crimp a new blade to it?

The name and numbers are off my water heater . It appears to be very simular to the one pictured.

Any help would sure be welcome, as I don't want to replace water heater.

Kay and Roy

__________________
carnegie1935 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2006, 02:18 PM   #54
RivetAddict
 
swebster's Avatar
 
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville , Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,861
Images: 4
You should be able to crimp on another blade connector. If its the wire to the ignitor you can get a replacement ignitor at any camping supply store or RV dealership.
__________________
Steven Webster
1986 Airstream 345 Classic Motorhome
AIR 1760
swebster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2006, 03:20 PM   #55
Rivet Master
 
noiva's Avatar
 
Chesapeake , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 626
Images: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
You should be able to crimp on another blade connector. If its the wire to the ignitor you can get a replacement ignitor at any camping supply store or RV dealership.
Just for moral support , I thought you ought to know I agree with Steven absolutely. If you're just talking about a blade connector on a wire to the ignition module, it's definitely simple enough to put a new connector on. I've done it, and never had any further trouble (with that wire connection) .
__________________
Tim
1987 30P
2003 Suburban 2500
AIR # 5648
noiva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2006, 07:14 PM   #56
3 Rivet Member
 
1983 30' Airstream 300
Plantersville , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 238
Thanks Steven and Tim . I put a new blade connector and it made good connection. It still wouldn't light. I didn't have any power to the ignitor board. I went inside and checked the temp control. It was ok. I am not sure what I did to fix it , but it works now. It must have been a loose wire.

Now I need to get a new pressure relief valve as it is dripping now that the water is getting hot.

Thanks again

Kay
__________________

__________________
carnegie1935 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water Heater Craig 1978- 1979 Excella 500 7 10-01-2007 06:16 PM
Repair or Replace Original Bowen Water Heater? Andy R Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 8 11-16-2005 04:51 PM
wiring - water heater Craig Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 12 10-02-2002 06:03 AM
Water Heater shell frame BobbyW Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 0 04-29-2002 11:21 AM
Water heater work tool FrankR Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 1 04-09-2002 11:57 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.