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Old 11-08-2012, 10:13 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Nuvite-F View Post
Well, first of all, this Aura generator is an inverter generator like the popular Honda EU-1000, -2000, etc. It generates DC and then electronically converts it to AC at the desired 60 Hz. There is no reason in principle this couldn't be done with a generator driven off the vehicle engine.

But. . . looking at their web site. . . it looks to me like they didn't quote you a price because their gadget doesn't really exist yet except as maybe a prototype. In other words, a solution looking for a problem (and a customer able to bankroll it).
,
It doesn't seem like a prototype and there are prices listed - with a voltage regulator I could think of more than a few practical uses for this - perhaps on an expedition vehicle or work truck?

Fabco Power - Hydraulic Driven Generators Price List
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:49 PM   #16
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Being born a Brit, I know you guys are all soft...

Hot weather is what convertables are for...
I drove to Death Valley in my '74 Alfa Spider in July and camped.

Back on topic tho...
If you are gonna update a R12 system to R134a, you will need to improve the system efficiency, as R134a is about 25/30% less efficient that R12. The way I read to do this lies in the condensor, by making it bigger or better, or improving the airflow.

Another trick I read here somewhere was to close off the cockpit of the MH from the rest to keep the cooling where it is needed.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:18 PM   #17
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Being born a Brit, I know you guys are all soft...

Hot weather is what convertibles are for...
I drove to Death Valley in my '74 Alfa Spider in July and camped.

Excuse me but are you trying to say that there is something wrong with convertibles in cold weather? Does this mean motorcycles are out too?

Just watch who you re calling soft.

Cheers, Dan

Back on topic I have to disagree with 134a conversion causing a 25-30% loss. Having converted more than a few systems that is not what I have seen. I do agree with the best you can do in a moho is block off the cockpit. These auto based systems just were not designed to cool the volume of a moho, the large glass area up front doesn't help either.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:42 AM   #18
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All tongue in cheek Dan as you know!

On the R134 conversion issue..
Having a few older cars in the family, we have cars with R12 and cars with R134 conversions, and that was the general opinion that R12 was best for original R12 systems. The Mercedes forums opinion was the same, so my son back converted his 300TE and noted an improvement.. he lives in AZ... a sure test of AC systems.
Which is why we bought this little bit of kit to keep around from a shop that closed...



I hear that putting a parallel flow condensor in to replace the tube and fin device is sufficient to cover the difference. This would be easier in the MH than in a car..
I am planning to put a 30x18 PF condensor in front of my MH with twin fans to maximise the engine AC regardless of which refridgerant I choose...

Another thought was this...
My 1987 Suburban has rear AC as well as front... They both run off the same lines and compressor...
I wonder if it would be possible to mount an evaporator in series with the Aux heater under the couch...
Ooops... there I go again!

More info on conversions here..
R12 to R134A Refrigerant Retrofit
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:54 AM   #19
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Or...
What about adapting this Trunk mounted unit to mount somewhere...
$459 for the unit alone sounds pretty good to me!
Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks.

Or go to the Junkyard and take the complete Hvac unit from a vehicle... heating a AC all in one box...
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Old 11-10-2012, 02:13 AM   #20
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Or...
What about adapting this Trunk mounted unit to mount somewhere...
$459 for the unit alone sounds pretty good to me!
Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks.

Or go to the Junkyard and take the complete Hvac unit from a vehicle... heating a AC all in one box...
This subject can be debated forever but I can only speak from experience. I worked for L.A. City when we converted a fleet of several thousand vehicles to 134a using a $29 kit from an outfit in Florida. We had no unusul problems in spite ofthe fact that GM, Ford and Chrysler told us we couldn't do it.

Classic Auro Air makes this statement " Contrary to popular belief, most cars originally equipped with R-12 can be converted to 134a and still keep you just as cool." The conversion site mentioned in your last post sites 3% to 15% loss. They discuss larger or more efficient condensers might help. On a smaller car with under sized components that may help but our mohos have truck systems so they have a pretty good sized condenser to start.

Do what you feel comfortable with but I have over 20,000 miles since I converted mine with no problem other than the evaporator blower motor that gave up the ghost. I run the air about 90% of the time. It's taken me about six weeks and three tries to find the correct replacement. I hope to get it installed in the next couple of days and will post some info and pics.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:55 AM   #21
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All good hands on info Dan!
I guess my experience has been with older Mercedes so far. My 87 suburban is a converted system from R12, and that blows cold.

My comment obout that vintage air system was adding that under the couch to supplement the cab ac, like my suburban has a rear ac that runs off the same engine compressor.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:27 AM   #22
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QUOTE:
Another trick I read here somewhere was to close off the cockpit of the MH from the rest to keep the cooling where it is needed. UNQUOTE

That would be the shower curtains suspended from a spring bar and mounted just behind the driver/passenger seats...delightfully tacky, and functional...while traveling, it keeps the cockpit cooler, and while stationary, you aren't trying to cool the cockpit.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:53 PM   #23
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The key is heat gain coming into the cockpit area. You have a huge glass area, minimum insulation and 30 ft of open box behind you with more of the same.

I have an old Greyhound bus and the compressor on it is about the size of you 454 block. It is shaft driven through a 11" Chevy clutch and the manual states you must idle the engine to engage the A/C. The temp control is handled by cycling the heater because you cannot cycle the A/C at road speeds. The bus is 35' so virtually the same volume as your coach. Granted the bus adds the heat of 35 bodies.

You can redesign the world but it comes at a cost. The most cost effective thing is run the dash air, run the gen-set and turn on the roof air and enjoy the drive.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:25 AM   #24
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Found this great info at Red Dot's website about R12 to R134 conversions...
I have saved it for further study when I get to that stage.
Covers issues, oils, O rings, hoses, and compressor part numbers plus a lot of other info... essential reading for changing to R134a or staying with R12.
http://reddotdev.biz/sites/default/f...4aRetrofit.pdf
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:00 PM   #25
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There is good info on that site Keyair. Notice they talk about 20 to 25 p.s.i. higher pressure with 134a. This is a class 8 truck site so these systems are getting a lot of hours on everyday truck use. Adding pressure will wear out compressors and other components faster just as adding horse power to your 454 will put more stress on it and wear components out faster.

You can buy new compressors, condensers, and hoses or run what you have and replace as needed. With the miles most put on their moho chances are they will never wear out many of these components.

Their comment,

If retrofitting is required, use a O.E.M.
authorized retrofit kit or procedure.
Remember, anything will work for a short
period of time, our goal is long term
reliability. The auto industry is developing
low cost “dirty changeovers” to service
older cars. There is a big difference in the
operational life in a four or five year car
than a heavy duty vehicle.

You also notice this comment,

R-134a will permeate through
rubber hose much faster than R-12. A nylon
barrier hose is much better for either refrigerant
but essential with R-134a. Non-barrier
hoses in an R-12 system can develop a
natural barrier through the absorption of
mineral oil into the hose material over time
making complete hose replacement not a
requirement.

And this comment,

Certain seals and
o-rings in older systems are not compatible
with R-134a and their lubricants. The best
bet is to change o-rings with a known
material such as neoprene or HNBR. Since
changing every seal isn’t always practical, if
after visual inspection, the connection looks
good, and will not be disturbed during the
retrofit process, then don’t replace it.

What I'm saying is you can convert to 134a very easily and inexpensively and make cold. Or you can spend a bunch of money, build a whole new system and you will still have system that won't cool your coach. It will help take the edge of on a hot day just like your original system.

I, and I'm sure other money challenged folks, choose to spend those dollars heading down the highway enjoying my moho.When it's all over and done you have to do what makes you happy.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:18 PM   #26
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DKAir,
I'm looking at an Airstream 2005 Classic 28' on Ebay and was wondering if you or someone you know could perform an inspection. It looks clean except for hail damage and rear bumper damage. The trailer is in Cedar, MN, and I live in Chattanooga, TN.
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:33 PM   #27
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I think this needs to be posted in the trailer section...
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:36 PM   #28
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Perhaps send him a pm.


Maggie
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