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Old 11-05-2011, 02:12 PM   #15
Rivet Master
1982 28' Airstream 280
Redwood City , California
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,734
Originally Posted by Keyair
Yes, get those pics flowing, as I was looking at Laminate flooring at Home depot this morning...
I calculate I need about 65sqft to do my from the cockpit back to the bedroom entrance in my 345.
Money is tight, so it will have to be a lower budget fix.
Someone put horrible carpet down in the bedroom, and halfway down the galley, which i will be replacing soon with some nice carpet I got from a neighbor. That will leave me a 6' length of floor bare between the vinyl kitchen floor and the new carpeted bathroom threshold.
I saw some laminate with good reviews for $0,68/sqft.
With the comments about moisture in mind, is there something I can do to the joints on the cheaper laminate to extend its resistance?
I need to measure again! I figured 82 sqft for my 280.


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Old 11-05-2011, 02:39 PM   #16
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,374
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I may have screwed up, or the config of my motorhome maybe odd due to the layout...

This is what I have...
Bedroom threshold thru bathroom and galley to forward edge of entance door:
14' x 3' = 42sqft

Forward area from Entrance to cockpit step-up:
6' x 2' = 12sqft

Entrance door area:
2' x 2' = 4sqft

Dinette Floor area:
3' x 2' = 6sqft.

Total is 64sqft.
That is not inclusive of the toilet, or the area opposite the galley, where I have a huge closet(Most have a dinette there), that I plan to pull out later, and have a couch/dinette.

The packs I was looking at are about 25sqft per pack, so I would buy 4, giving me plenty to cover these areas, or for screw-ups in cutting!
I like the idea of getting the floor covered for under $80, but I need to get underlay/barrier too.
Hold on... Lowes is closing the local store... maybe they are having a sale... watch this space!

Couple of pics to help you visualize why I need to replace the carpet and my floorplan!


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Old 11-06-2011, 06:51 PM   #17
3 Rivet Member
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Milton , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 106
The first Pergo I put down years ago (before snap-in) used a white carpenters glue and proved to be pretty water resistant. Apparently the glue sealed the joints. I wouldn't let water stand on it for any period of time, but when it got wet, I'd wipe it up and it never buckled. Not sure if they still have that option, but I see no reason you couldn't do it with a snap in type. If you do glue it, replacement of pieces which get damaged later, would be difficult, but not impossible. You would have to cut it out and re-glue... Here's the official view from Pergo.
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Old 11-06-2011, 11:12 PM   #18
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1936 20' Clipper
1947 22' Liner
Curtis Wright
1989 37' Airstream 370
marshfield , Massachusetts
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 695
I guess I'm in opinion offering mode tonight.

OK. I understand the cost /simplicity /durability thing with these products.
However, the biggest issue I have with retro fitted laminate floors is the amount of "cover-up" that's required to trim them, especially in tight spaces. Every installation I've ever seen just screams "did it myself job".
Especially in a moho, the actual amount of square foot coverage is quite small relative to the amount of perimeter edge work that is up close and highly visible, generally imperfect, and calling out for a second layer of moldings to conceal what couldn't be covered. The laminate says "wood", but even the expensive stuff doesn't really look or feel like wood, or match up well to existing wood. While thin for a wood product, the material is still too thick to be cleanly butted up to a wall or edge like a tile.
For all the yardage involved, I'd rather haul out the vacuum more often, and re-carpet as required. Just M.H.O.
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:41 AM   #19
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2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
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Posts: 10,814
I have used the better quality laminate and of you choose carefully it can look very good unless you stare at it. Anyone who installs anything can see all the differences and mistakes they have made, but most other people never notice.

But if water gets underneath, you have a big problem. In RV's water leaks are common and plumbing can let go. Therefore, I would avoid laminates in an RV.

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Old 11-07-2011, 10:35 AM   #20
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1986 31' Sovereign
Miami , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,364
Blog Entries: 13
We used laminate in our Sovereign and it has held up superbly. Soft broom and a wet Swiffer and it looks like new...

When you read the product literature for the flooring you choose they will recommend the underlayment. In our case it was foam cored plastic sheeting. Our floor is a "floating" floor -- installed with about 1/8th of an inch of clearance on the perimeter (covered by the trim) to allow for expansion/contraction of the flooring with temperature.

In the bathroom, we used Marmoleum (modern linoleum) and it looks great and is absolutely waterproof.

Good luck,

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Old 11-07-2011, 07:38 PM   #21
3 Rivet Member
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Milton , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 106
Home Depot, Lowes, and others (I'm sure) sell commcial carpet tile. It is usually special order and somewhat expensive, but worth it. I used it when I ran Building Operations and it was great. It interlocks and does not require fastening and if you mess one up, just pop it out and put in a new one. We're using it for the rear part, bedroom to bath, and wood look vinyl fron there forward...the big dog (80lbs) seemed to have a problem getting traction on a moving laminate floor, and really hated it under breaking .

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interior, sound insulation, wood floor

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