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Old 06-22-2013, 12:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesalie2 View Post
Question for the forum members:

When connected to shore power and running the front Air Conditioner, how warm does your circuit breaker box in the rear bedroom feel?

Mine Is warm to the touch...

"Inquiring minds want to know"

Thanks!
I would be concerned if it generating heat!
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:32 PM   #16
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Our breaker gets pretty hot...I'm taking Scrap in for an ac check this coming week...our breaker for AC throws after about 5 minutes of running when the outside temp gets above 97...which is , well, almost every day, now, in Austin...
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:06 PM   #17
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1982 28' Airstream 280
Redwood City , California
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Mine will get warm at times as well. Basically everything is new from the pedestal plug up to the breaker box, that includes the transfer switch and power management system (surge protector) which all are located in the left rear corner closet. However, some of that heat is from the radiant heat from sun shining on outside aluminum and transfered to the inside wall and closet. The breaker panel will feel warm but not really hot. With the electronics in the transfer switch and power management system, they will feel warm as well.

When I run the A/C, I try to be aware of anything else that is drawing power. I usually turn off the electric water heater. Even though it is a 30 amp service, I try not to max that out. Funny enough though, last evening I had the A/C on, the electrical water heater on (because I forgot) and while I was outside BBQing, the power went off. I switched everything off and checked the breakers, they didn't seem to be popped. The breaker panel was slightly warm and the cables were not warm at all. The power management system was warm and the transfer switch seemed to be warmer then I remember it getting. I went out to the pedestal and reset that breaker even though it didn't seem to be tripped. I also pulled the plug from the pedestal and checked the three prongs...they were not warm at all.

I had power back on at this point. The normal draw with refrig, A/C, etc. on is 15-18 amps. I think when the elec water heater kicks on it could draw up to another 10 amps. So what happened was that the converter kicked into it once a day high charge mode to condition the coach batteries. I've seen the converter also draw 10+ amps at times. So this is what tripped I believe the pedestal 30 amp breaker (which looks like it is about 50 years old.
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:18 PM   #18
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Memphis , Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2 View Post
Our breaker gets pretty hot...I'm taking Scrap in for an ac check this coming week...our breaker for AC throws after about 5 minutes of running when the outside temp gets above 97...which is , well, almost every day, now, in Austin...
With the outside temp in the 90's, ran both A/C units. The breaker box got pretty hot on our return trip from Pennsylvania, the front A/C breaker popped. I shut down the rear A/C and the generator as well.

Running on shore power with just the front A/C running, the breaker box feels very warm to the touch. Outside temp was in the low 90's. On the positive side, the breaker did not pop...(am running on Low Cool with the temp setting about 2 notches above coldest setting.
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:31 AM   #19
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Memphis , Tennessee
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Let the repairs begin!

Alternator fan belt was squealing so off with the doghouse to gain access. An hour later, I finally find the hidden screw on the side. (Added by one of the 3 previous owners...). Loosened retaining bolt and with a little aid from the DW, she crawled under the coach and applied pressure to the alternator via a lever (2X2 board), we got it done. She is definitely an amazing gal!

No obnoxious belt squeal...Priceless!

Since the doghouse was removed and I had access to the carb and all it's lines, hoses, wires, etc...decided to do a little straightening up. Noticed there were quite a few vacuam lines not connected to anything with screws inserted as plugs. Replaced cracked, brittle hoses with new and removed hoses going nowhere, capped the vacuam ports at the carb with these handy rubber plugs:


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Many thanks to the PO for leaving them in one of the storage lockers!
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:43 PM   #20
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
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Sorry to hear that your return trip was so... well… eventful. Sounds like you'll be spending quite a bit of time in repair mode with this one. Luck has not been on your side so I hope things change. Sure hope the price was right and the PO was honest about any issues. Just curious what you paid, since I'm in the market for a classic as well.

I'd try to trace down where all those vacuum hoses need to go. You may very well have a few vacuum leaks to plug. I'd replace all the belts as well. Well, you know the routine. Replace everything rubber that doesn't have a known history. Good luck on your newest MH venture.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:57 PM   #21
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Memphis , Tennessee
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Originally Posted by 92landyacht View Post
Sorry to hear that your return trip was so... well… eventful. Sounds like you'll be spending quite a bit of time in repair mode with this one. Luck has not been on your side so I hope things change. Sure hope the price was right and the PO was honest about any issues. Just curious what you paid, since I'm in the market for a classic as well.

I'd try to trace down where all those vacuum hoses need to go. You may very well have a few vacuum leaks to plug. I'd replace all the belts as well. Well, you know the routine. Replace everything rubber that doesn't have a known history. Good luck on your newest MH venture.
92landyacht,

"Eventful" but rewarding! Has not deterred me in the least.

PO was very honest and I was made aware of the condition of the coach. My issues were related more to the Moho being stored for 3 years then lack of maintenance.
Had the following performed in the last 3 years:

New Airbags Front
repaired Airbags Rear
Repaired Rear Compressor
New Couch
New Captains Chairs
New Living Room Chairs
New Laminate Floor
New Hoses
New Belts
New Dash Gauge
New Brake Lines
New Front tires (Coopers)
Drapes were cleaned
New Coach Batteries
New 55 Amp Converter
New front spring on zip dee awning
Recored radiator
New exhaust system
New starter
New Side Mirrors

Note: traced down all the vacuam lines and all is operational, any stray lines were plugged.

Stay tuned for the continuing "aluminum" tales from the midsouth!
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:02 PM   #22
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Memphis , Tennessee
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"Just tinkering"

Adjusted the idle mixture and idle speed using the following instructions from a forum:

"Disconnect vacuum advance at distributor and plug vacuum line,
start motor with timing light and a RPM gauge attached and set idle and timing to correct settings.

Connect vacuum gauge to full unported vacuum at base of carburetor, now shut motor off and turn both idle mixture screws all the way in but be sure that you only use light pressure as you can turn the idle mixture screw past being lightly seated by twisting hard and then you are damaging the idle mixture opening with the needle causing it to flare the opening trashing a good carburetor body so please only lightly seat the needles.

now back each out 1 1/2 turns, restart motor and check idle and timing and adjust as necessary to correct settings,

now back each needle out slowly a 1/4 turn each alternating between the 2 until you reach the highest vacuum reading,

check and adjust idle speed and timing, now repeat step one of backing idle mixture screws out alternating between the 2 a 1/4 turn at a time until you have reached highest vacuum reading again.

Continue the process adjusting timing/RPM/idle mixture screws until you have no changes occurring and have reached highest vacuum reading possible.

You have now optimized your timing idle mixture adjustments. Reconnect your vacuum advance while disconnecting the RPM gauge, timing light, and vacuum gauge."

I followed the above instructions and all is well!
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:50 PM   #23
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Yup. That is good procedure for carb! Don't neglect vacuum lines, they cause sucky problems... Replace when they lose flexibility.

Breaker box gets warm. I measured 97 degrees with full AC load, converter and TV. When I turn on water heater it pops older breakers. My new one at home works fine... So RV parks are not reliable in high load days. I am upgrading to 50 amp and spreading load since adding AC2.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:12 PM   #24
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Memphis , Tennessee
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Where oh where to add the air?

Today's mission, find the Shrader Valves that air up the front air bags...

Looked under the hood, nope
Looked around the front and the bumper area, nope
Crawled under the front, yep the little black caps are installed on the air bag inlet, how convenient!

Checked the pressure and aired each one up to 55 PSI.

Guess I have to add air lines to the growing list of small doodads to purchase.

:-)
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:59 AM   #25
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You plan to run separate lines? I would otherwise may not act properly as suspension.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:11 AM   #26
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Memphis , Tennessee
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You plan to run separate lines? I would otherwise may not act properly as suspension.
Channing,

Definitely plan on running separate lines. Initial thought is to mount the under the hood area similar to our former AS Land Yacht Motorhome.

:-)
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:30 PM   #27
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Memphis , Tennessee
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"Hook me up!"

Had to convert the Motorhome end of our Blue Ox connector from it's current 7 pin to a flat four to match Penny's configuration. Picked up a flat four pin connector from the local parts store. Removed the 7 pin end, clipped the connectors, wired up the new connector and voila! We're done.
Hooked up the connector and tested the toad end to ensure the connections are proper.

While testing the tow connector, noticed the headlights were on, but the side marker and tail lights weren't. Removed the small carpeted end piece from the drivers side and with the aid of a flashlight, located the fuse box. Pulled fuses one at a time and noticed several were marked higher then what the fuse box called for...replaced those with the proper rated fuse and replace the two blown ones as well. Tested those circuits and we have light.

While buttoning up the dog house small cover piece, noticed the switch on the brake pedal arm had one loose wire and one broken wire. Reconnected the one side and stripped the broken wire back a bit and installed a new connector. Used a small paint stick to engage the brake pedal and the brake lights are operational.

Identified a few other minor issues to add to my growing list...
One side window won't latch properly
Another side window twists the seal when opening

And the fun continues!
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:33 PM   #28
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Memphis , Tennessee
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"Toot my own Horn"

Knew the horn was an issue when we purchased our Motorhome, Basically, sounds like a sick VW aka "Herbie the Love Bug"

Fuse not blown
Removed the steering wheel, checked the wires, the black wire is hot and the orange wire is ground.
Assume the black wire is connected to the Horn Relay next to the fuse box and when the horn button is depressed the black wire finds a ground, energizes a coil to connect the Green power wire to the two orange wires.

Got sidetracked repairing the accordion door and have to call it a night.

Tomorrow will check for power at the green wire
If it is good, will jumper the green and the orange
Hopefully the Horn will be loud and I can replace the Horn Relay
If not, will check the ground and wiring at the horn

Would prefer not having to buy New Horns (fingers crossed)
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