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Old 08-09-2015, 08:57 AM   #113
cwf
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Peter, if you use copper line instead of the plastic hose, it will help cool the air before getting to the tank. It is not hard to bend. You can use side of a plastic soda bottle or paint can...to help keep a nice arc.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:45 PM   #114
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Peter, if you use copper line instead of the plastic hose, it will help cool the air before getting to the tank. It is not hard to bend. You can use side of a plastic soda bottle or paint can...to help keep a nice arc.
Got the system all tight now, even got a removable pressure gauge.
Got my seat cushions back from the upholstery shop (thanks, Channing for the referral, they do excellent work). This completes my custom dinette.
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:15 AM   #115
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Woody

Never been too fond of the wood decal and even less once it starts peeling.
If the surround decal is still in good shape, here is a fairly simple way to deal with it, without going through all the stripping mess:
To remove the top layer, use white masking tape 1 1/2 or 2 inch, the cheaper the better, since the cheaper stuff sticks even more. Use a sharp razor for some of the stubborn stuff. Works very fast and its very clean. It did those 2 sections in about 2 hours, removing the top layer and installing new decal.
Then just decorate the center to your hearts desire.
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:50 AM   #116
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I like the look Peter. Ive conteplated doing something along those lines at some point. Mine is still in pretty good shape so no hurry. What is the new decal all about? What material, how is it applied, where did you purchase(what kind of vendor, local, on line, what type of business)? Did you apply the new decal,yourself? Id like to start some research but not sure what the options are. I have assumed a sign shop or a vinyl wrap business. Does a decal like that come in standard widths? Thank you for anything you might want to share. Yours really looks nice, good choice I think. Really goes well with the part you left in place and with the aluminum shell. There might be some negotiations with the wife on this one..........she has grown to really like the classic look of the wood grain. Me....Im not so sure, especially as ours starts to deteriorate more. The worst part on ous is the black and silver stripe along the front "hood". Its faded bad. Man it would look sooooo great to replace all the striping and the little rubber/vinyl insert all the way around.

Mike
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Old 08-16-2015, 02:02 PM   #117
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Mike,
I did put in new rub rail, cost for the small dark gray and the wide black was right at $215.-
The decal I using is part of my inventory I have from rebuilding Airstreams for 20 years. Some you can only buy in 150' rolls, so have a many partial rolls.
I do install it myself. Main thing is not to worry about small air bubbles, since they will evaporate in a few weeks.
Ebay is the a good source for any type of decals, my suggestion is not to buy the cheapest. Quality varies a lot and you want something that will last a few years.
for example check these:
TRACKER MARINE 103790 SILVER CLEAR CHARCOAL 1 3 4 INCH BOAT PINSTRIPE TAPE | eBay
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Old 08-16-2015, 02:09 PM   #118
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Ahhhhhhh, didnt know you had been at it so long! Should have after reading your posts. Thanks for the link Ill check it out
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Old 08-22-2015, 07:15 PM   #119
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The Bath window and the rear emergency exit window use a different type of gasket. I had a hard time figuring out, how to remove the bath window. There are 2 screws on the bottom of one of the brackets, but they are frozen solid. So I found the easiest would be to drill out the rivets of the bracket that is attached to the window.
The gasket material is available from inland RV as part number 45370 and you will need 20' for the bath and rear window. I use the black weatherstripping Adhesive from 3M for these types of gaskets. Its inland Rv part number 51991
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:35 AM   #120
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Ahhhhhhh, didnt know you had been at it so long! Should have after reading your posts. Thanks for the link Ill check it out
Peter's been at this long enough he can do the repairs in his sleep...
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:43 PM   #121
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Airstream Root canal

so the fun started. Center panel is out without pulling the window.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:17 PM   #122
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hidden rivets

We all have heard that the interior of Airstreams were built from the rear forward. So were the panels. I suppose one guy just went around with a pop rivet gun and attached the panels and then buck rivet guys came.
It takes a little bit of prying to get the panels loose from those hidden rivets. I marked the location, so I can clean the remnants later or else they will really mess with me trying to slip the new panels in.
No window and only the main awning hold down bracket have been removed to get the rear three panels out
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:32 PM   #123
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Here is the astonishing part:
I have not found any sealant. They must have run out of Vulkem the day they put this 310 together. Its actually a lot easier for me to not have to deal with the vulkem, but these windows were leaking badly, so were some of the seams.
If you can't stand Olympic rivets and only believe that buck rivets should be used, please don't read any further, because I don't want to tick you off.
I know that my installation using Olympic Rivets and Vulkem 116 will outlast any of these buck rivet factory jobs I am finding. If you do all your drilling and clean the grease of the panels prior to installing new panels with vulkem 116 and Olympic Rivets, you will have a water tight rig that will last many years.
Look at this seam, no sealant, zero, nada
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Old 08-28-2015, 08:42 AM   #124
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Peter,

Now you've got me wondering about the 1986 345 that I dismantled a few years ago. I don't recall looking closely at the seams because when I cut the shell up I just used a sawzall to cut it into smaller chunks. I've got a few sections left sitting beside my shop. I'll take a closer look to see if any sealant was used on those seams.

I know Shepherd57 dismantled an Argosy and he indicated there was no sealant used between the seams. There is a product called Acryl-R that is applied externally to the seams that will wick in and seal. I actually have some of it on the shelf and used some around the back seams and it seemed to help. I think typically it needs to be applied multiple times before a seam is totally sealed.

I do plan on applying Acryl-R to all the seams on my Argosy before it gets painted.

Brad
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Old 08-28-2015, 12:59 PM   #125
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Peter,

Now you've got me wondering about the 1986 345 that I dismantled a few years ago. I don't recall looking closely at the seams because when I cut the shell up I just used a sawzall to cut it into smaller chunks. I've got a few sections left sitting beside my shop. I'll take a closer look to see if any sealant was used on those seams.

I know Shepherd57 dismantled an Argosy and he indicated there was no sealant used between the seams. There is a product called Acryl-R that is applied externally to the seams that will wick in and seal. I actually have some of it on the shelf and used some around the back seams and it seemed to help. I think typically it needs to be applied multiple times before a seam is totally sealed.

I do plan on applying Acryl-R to all the seams on my Argosy before it gets painted.

Brad
If I would have access to the interior walls, I would use Vulkem116 on all the seams, rivets and windows. Actually any window I ever removed had lots of Vulkem applied from the inside. Thats why they are so damn hard to remove.
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Old 08-28-2015, 04:51 PM   #126
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I forgot to make clear which panels I am replacing
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