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Old 07-29-2015, 05:41 AM   #85
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No I didnt, it would be nice to have though. Just to keep an eye on whats going on. I do really like that combo pressure switch/relay though. Mainly because its pretty compact. I think Airstream made some minor changes on the compressor set up between '82 and '83. Mine is located in that same locker, drivers side rear, but there is a devider in there that splits the compartment into two spaces. The one that houses the compressor also houses the transfer switch and the space is only about 8" to 10" wide if that. The rest of the locker is for cord storage and such. So it was really tight getting the new, bigger compressor in there. I like your idea to move it under the bed, I think in later models in came from the factory that way.

Is your tank still in place or are you going to have to install a new tank also? Not sure if you know or not but the oem set up had 2 air lines from the tank to the compressor set up. One line was supply from the compressor to the tank and the other line was from the tank to the pressure switch. I abandoned one of those lines and just put a plug in the tank port. I installed the pressure sw/relay inline on the supply air so there was no need for the second air line......less connections...less potential for leaks. The factory tank has a port on the bottom (with the bleader) and the other port is on top. I also really like having that quick coupler for an air hose. It was worth the effort to build it in. I put a simple ball valve between the supply line to the tank and the quick coupler. That way I can shut the valve when I want to use the air hose and I wont empty the air tank. Nice having onboard air, and thats a good reason to spend the money on a better more powerful compressor.
With yours installed under the bed you could hard pipe through the floor and out to the side somewhere inconspicuous. Good luck on your install, youll like that Viair compressor I think.

Mike
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:22 AM   #86
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Peter, this is the waterproof breaker I had in mind:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024J...F1L&ref=plSrch

I don't know how long the Link will work...
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:18 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Did you install an inline pressure gauge?
On my old 310 there was a quick connect fitting inside the electrical/hose compartment. I just put a male quick coupler on a pressure gauge and plugged the gauge into the quick connect. Quick and easy and still made the quick connect available for a hose when needed.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:07 PM   #88
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You got it. What I did on the 310 was used the yellow from the fuse block to drive the relay
Here is a scary discovery:
It appears that very yellow wire is NOT fused.
After I turned the ignition on to check wiring mess, the wire coming out of the pressure control box was hot and just hanging there. It touched ground by accident when I was messing around and did some fine sparking, but did not blow any fuse...
Are you sure it comes from the fuse block?
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:13 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Here is a scary discovery:
It appears that very yellow wire is NOT fused.
After I turned the ignition on to check wiring mess, the wire coming out of the pressure control box was hot and just hanging there. It touched ground by accident when I was messing around and did some fine sparking, but did not blow any fuse...
Are you sure it comes from the fuse block?
Peter, pretty sure it was fused on my 310. The yellow wire had a 1/4" flat spade connector on it and it plugged into the main fuse block. The worst part was the fuse holder in that area was melted from excessive heat, most likely due to the compressor running all the time from air leaks.

I'll go go take a peak to see if I can determine which fuse it might be (if there is one!). Not sure if there is a difference between 83 and 84. I want to say the yellow wire was either a 10 gauge or a 12 gauge.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:56 PM   #90
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Just checked out the 84 310. The yellow wire appears to be 12 gauge and is definitely fused.

The yellow wire at the middle right is for the compressor. The fuse is the yellow 20 amp fuse that is just above the plug.

The yellow wire on the left is for the electric fuel pump.

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Old 07-29-2015, 05:11 PM   #91
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Yes that yellow wire is fuse at the block, 20 amp spade at the location Brad stated. I blew it when testing my old seized compressor.

That yellow wire now trips a relay with my new ARB twin cylinder compressor which then draws 80/hr direct from the batteries until the internal pressure switch says that's enough.

Cheers
Tony

PS I forgot to take dashboard photos that you wanted to see. I will upload some photo's after my rig gets back from the shop.

A fan belt blew on the highway on the way back from Sauble Falls and the engine temp started rising from its normal 180 so I shut here down and let her cool off. I then tried to make Fergus, only 25kms away where my shop is, only to find that the belt had knocked my throttle cable astray and it ended up getting mangled by the cooling fan.

So ordered two new belts and a new throttle cable and praying that I find no other trouble when I open her up this weekend. Maybe now's the time to lube that water pump.

I have a feeling the belts were the wrong width, 1/2" instead of 17mm, so new ones coming from a Hitachi heavy equipment dealer having the same Isuzu number.
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Old 07-29-2015, 05:38 PM   #92
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the plot thickens

Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
just checked out the 84 310. The yellow wire appears to be 12 gauge and is definitely fused.

The yellow wire at the middle right is for the compressor. The fuse is the yellow 20 amp fuse that is just above the plug.

The yellow wire on the left is for the electric fuel pump.

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Old 07-29-2015, 06:19 PM   #93
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I'll bet that yellow wire with the blue connector actually goes just below the yellow fuse in middle. I believe there are some places you can plug in on the fuse block that are not fused and possibly the previous owner moved the yellow wire to one of those locations. Probably because the fuse kept blowing

Since it is only going to drive the relay coil you could easily get by with a 5 amp fuse. Not sure why I never changed the 20 amp to a 5 amp fuse but I'll probably do so before it leaves here.

Brad
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:28 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I'll bet that yellow wire with the blue connector actually goes just below the yellow fuse in middle. I believe there are some places you can plug in on the fuse block that are not fused and possibly the previous owner moved the yellow wire to one of those locations. Probably because the fuse kept blowing

Since it is only going to drive the relay coil you could easily get by with a 5 amp fuse. Not sure why I never changed the 20 amp to a 5 amp fuse but I'll probably do so before it leaves here.

Brad
Nope , tried that. Just have to do some wire tracing
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:32 PM   #95
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Nope , tried that. Just have to do some wire tracing
Interesting. Did you check for voltage in the female socket prior to plugging in the yellow wire? I have seen those sockets go bad from too much current. It happened to the dash air conditioner fan socket on the 310. I ended up adding an auxiliary fuse block in the glove box so I could get power to the dash blower.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:24 PM   #96
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Found it. Yellow wire goes to a circuit breaker close to Isolator. Other post goes to same gauge orange wire which appears to go directly to the steering column.
Circuit reset by the time I got the meter out after shorting the wire back by the pressure control switch.
Sooo, with a solid 10 gauge wire going from steering column ( prob ignition switch) all the way to the compressor location, should I still just use that wire for the relay coil and run an new direct wire from the battery?
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:55 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Sooo, with a solid 10 gauge wire going from steering column ( prob ignition switch) all the way to the compressor location, should I still just use that wire for the relay coil and run an new direct wire from the battery?
I would only power the relay from that yellow wire. Its a proven method that a lot of us have used with success.
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:10 PM   #98
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Peter, there is no way I would run that much power through my ignition switch!!!!! Using the switch to power a "relay" is right way. That is how they set up the horns... Because the button on the steering wheel would weld and the horn sound until it melts.

So..... Please be careful my friend!
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