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Old 12-21-2015, 12:10 PM   #309
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got the new pan in without having to do anything to the trans or crossmember. The trick for that elusive bolt is to do your ball joints first, so you have some nice fresh grease oozing out to put some on the bolt head to and stick it to a screwdriver to guide it up there.
There is one bolt that is bit shorter than all the others and I think that is supposed to go in that location.
I cut it a little wider than Keyair did to have access with a socket for the other bolt back there.
Found a lot of alu dust on the bottom of the pan , kinda worrysome.
waiting for my new radio to arrive tomorrow
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Old 12-21-2015, 12:42 PM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
got the new pan in without having to do anything to the trans or crossmember. The trick for that elusive bolt is to do your ball joints first, so you have some nice fresh grease oozing out to put some on the bolt head to and stick it to a screwdriver to guide it up there.
There is one bolt that is bit shorter than all the others and I think that is supposed to go in that location.
I cut it a little wider than Keyair did to have access with a socket for the other bolt back there.
Found a lot of alu dust on the bottom of the pan , kinda worrysome.
waiting for my new radio to arrive tomorrow
I wonder how much the transmission cross member will interfere with air flow through the cooling tubes. I would imagine not a lot but would make for an interesting study

I don't know much if anything about the insides of these transmissions but aluminum dust seems kinda odd. I would think steel shavings, etc would be more prevalent.

Looking forward to your radio install! I used a Dremal when adding a larger radio to the 310 dash. I just stuffed a sheet up and around things to keep the dust going anywhere but where I wanted. Really wasn't that bad.
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:30 PM   #311
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I wonder how much the transmission cross member will interfere with air flow through the cooling tubes. I would imagine not a lot but would make for an interesting study

I don't know much if anything about the insides of these transmissions but aluminum dust seems kinda odd. I would think steel shavings, etc would be more prevalent.
.
May have been steel, didn't have a magnet to test and already wiped out the old pan. The drain plug of the new pan has a magnet, so we'll see some of these days.
Connected the TransTemp gauge to the sending unit I tested with boiling water, but it just barely moved in idle. Does it take a while for the trans oil fluid to warm up enough to show? The pan felt pretty warm (~120) after idling for a while, but can't do a road test with the dash all torn apart
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:39 PM   #312
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I doubt that the transmission fluid temperature will climb much until you're out on the road driving. I would also hope it doesn't climb much above 210 degrees when working under load. (just a guess on my part)

Remember the transmission typically has cooling lines that run through the lower radiator so I would expect the transmission temperature to be around the same temperature or less most of the time. I would think if it climb to high in temperature that would be detrimental to engine cooling due to the transmission lines passing through the radiator.

Obviously under load climbing hills etc I suppose it would climb some.

Be interesting to see what your readings end up being once you're driving.

Brad
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:47 PM   #313
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I wonder how much the transmission cross member will interfere with air flow through the cooling tubes. I would imagine not a lot but would make for an interesting study
They almost clear the cross member. I am more concerned about mud daubers clogging the tubes. I suppose they may need a rinse every once in a while.
Took 8 1/2 quarts of trans fluid to fill it. I measured exactly how much I drained plus the 3 qts and 8 oz extra for the pan, so I would not have to mess around all day trying to fill it.
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Old 12-21-2015, 03:12 PM   #314
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...
Looking forward to your radio install! I used a Dremal when adding a larger radio to the 310 dash. I just stuffed a sheet up and around things to keep the dust going anywhere but where I wanted. Really wasn't that bad.
Brad, do you remember the exact size of the opening for a Din1 unit. Web says 7 1/8 x 2", would that be the cut out?
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:57 PM   #315
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Brad, do you remember the exact size of the opening for a Din1 unit. Web says 7 1/8 x 2", would that be the cut out?
Unfortunately no, sorry.

If it was me I'd wait until the radio shows up to be sure. I've heard that everything you read on the internet is true so the dimensions probably are 7-1/8" x 2" but I wouldn't push your luck!
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:37 PM   #316
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just figures

Yes, I am excited to get new multi media center for the 310, but the main reason I wanted to change the radio was that static everytime I touched the volume. Now, after dismantling the entire mess, I found the ground wire to be a dud with all ground coming through the dash. After I got the radio and equalizer out, I hooked it all back up with a solid ground and it sounds perfect.
I may just see if I can use the equalizer with the new system and keep it in that upper opening behind the pop up screen.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:44 AM   #317
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Gotta love factory and PO wiring

At least you should have high confidence that the new installation will be flawless.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:36 PM   #318
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Gotta love factory and PO wiring

At least you should have high confidence that the new installation will be flawless.

Hmmm, look what you got me into, Brad.
This unit is heavy and will need a backstrap, but to where??????
Okay, see you in a few hours or maybe days....
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:27 PM   #319
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Hardest part is done, cutting the darn dash for Din1.
Dremel tool didn't do it for me, I went through 3 top quality metal cutting disks and finally got my trusted Bosh jig saw out with a fine new blade. Cut it like butter. I did my best to center it below the opening above, which put in in danger zone to a wire bundle feeding the gauges above. Caution if you do this !!!!
I will insulate where the wires touch the unit to keep them from rubbing.
Now the fun connecting all the wires can begin.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:51 PM   #320
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Hmmm, look what you got me into, Brad.
This unit is heavy and will need a backstrap, but to where??????
Okay, see you in a few hours or maybe days....
Lookin good!

I've always felt it's best to learn from someone else's mistakes so the way I see it you're my guinea pig

A back strap is going to be interesting. I'm sure you'll figure out something interesting and unique though!
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:33 PM   #321
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Nice work Peter!

Brad, sometime you know, you are like that little Devil on the shoulder...
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:38 PM   #322
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Preview
1983 meets 2015 . George Orwell knew it all along
This is awesome stuff!!!
DEAN, look !
Still undecided if I should run it through that old Sony amp. It renders some of the function useless, like fade, since that is controlled by the amp. What do you guys think, could there be a compatibility problem using old and new technology?
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