The story of the Airstream 310 Jacket

[PeterH-350LE]

for Tevake (Richard), is that what you had in mind ??

[bkahler]

Perfect application for a Dremal type of tool. I personally don't like the Dremal brand and use a Harbor Freight clone myself.

Get some fiber reinforced cutoff wheels and you're good to go.

Sure is a rats nest isn't it

[gaiaenviro]

Maybe one of the vibrating saws....


-Bill
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Perfect application for a Dremal type of tool. I personally don't like the Dremal brand and use a Harbor Freight clone myself.

Get some fiber reinforced cutoff wheels and you're good to go.

Sure is a rats nest isn't it

there is a layer of metal (I hope aluminum). Trying to avoid too much vibration and metal shavings falling down in the fuse box.
12v+ comes via a yellow wire from the coach, ground wires were connected to a fat white wire, which wasn't grounded. Radio got its ground from being mounted to the metal dash plate.
Yes, its a rats nest, but what can do if you have soooo many wires. I guess thats why they invented wireless, but thats just not a wise application in a car.

[tevake]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

for Tevake (Richard), is that what you had in mind ??

That's it exactly Peter, especially with the lighting in there. Quite a sight.

Guests would turn around to look for the fire extinguisher. :-)

Maybe it is better to close it up and try to put it out of mind.

Cheers Richard

[Keyair]

My upper slot where the equalizer is on yours is a blank plate with a switch for the engine electric fan... I am thinking about putting gauges in there.
Interesting you mention "The Yellow Wire"... I was looking for the back part of the glovebox toggle switch, and saw a yellow wire... Which was not connected to anything and the end taped...

[Keyair]

Or one of these that someone else recently got...
Oops... Can't post the link from my phone..
It's a USB outlet and voltmeter.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Keyair

My upper slot where the equalizer is on yours is a blank plate with a switch for the engine electric fan... I am thinking about putting gauges in there.
Interesting you mention "The Yellow Wire"... I was looking for the back part of the glovebox toggle switch, and saw a yellow wire... Which was not connected to anything and the end taped...

The fat yellow wire is coach 12V going all over the place, actually all the way to the back. It runs on street side wall, over the door to the fuse panel
Better to have the radio on coach system then engine system.

Btw, I am working on the transpan, got the crossmember cut, getting ready to fit and see how to access that 1 bolt.

[PeterH-350LE]

got the new pan in without having to do anything to the trans or crossmember. The trick for that elusive bolt is to do your ball joints first, so you have some nice fresh grease oozing out to put some on the bolt head to and stick it to a screwdriver to guide it up there.
There is one bolt that is bit shorter than all the others and I think that is supposed to go in that location.
I cut it a little wider than Keyair did to have access with a socket for the other bolt back there.
Found a lot of alu dust on the bottom of the pan , kinda worrysome.
waiting for my new radio to arrive tomorrow

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

got the new pan in without having to do anything to the trans or crossmember. The trick for that elusive bolt is to do your ball joints first, so you have some nice fresh grease oozing out to put some on the bolt head to and stick it to a screwdriver to guide it up there.
There is one bolt that is bit shorter than all the others and I think that is supposed to go in that location.
I cut it a little wider than Keyair did to have access with a socket for the other bolt back there.
Found a lot of alu dust on the bottom of the pan , kinda worrysome.
waiting for my new radio to arrive tomorrow

I wonder how much the transmission cross member will interfere with air flow through the cooling tubes. I would imagine not a lot but would make for an interesting study

I don't know much if anything about the insides of these transmissions but aluminum dust seems kinda odd. I would think steel shavings, etc would be more prevalent.

Looking forward to your radio install! I used a Dremal when adding a larger radio to the 310 dash. I just stuffed a sheet up and around things to keep the dust going anywhere but where I wanted. Really wasn't that bad.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I wonder how much the transmission cross member will interfere with air flow through the cooling tubes. I would imagine not a lot but would make for an interesting study

I don't know much if anything about the insides of these transmissions but aluminum dust seems kinda odd. I would think steel shavings, etc would be more prevalent.
.

May have been steel, didn't have a magnet to test and already wiped out the old pan. The drain plug of the new pan has a magnet, so we'll see some of these days.
Connected the TransTemp gauge to the sending unit I tested with boiling water, but it just barely moved in idle. Does it take a while for the trans oil fluid to warm up enough to show? The pan felt pretty warm (~120) after idling for a while, but can't do a road test with the dash all torn apart

[bkahler]

I doubt that the transmission fluid temperature will climb much until you're out on the road driving. I would also hope it doesn't climb much above 210 degrees when working under load. (just a guess on my part)

Remember the transmission typically has cooling lines that run through the lower radiator so I would expect the transmission temperature to be around the same temperature or less most of the time. I would think if it climb to high in temperature that would be detrimental to engine cooling due to the transmission lines passing through the radiator.

Obviously under load climbing hills etc I suppose it would climb some.

Be interesting to see what your readings end up being once you're driving.

Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I wonder how much the transmission cross member will interfere with air flow through the cooling tubes. I would imagine not a lot but would make for an interesting study

They almost clear the cross member. I am more concerned about mud daubers clogging the tubes. I suppose they may need a rinse every once in a while.
Took 8 1/2 quarts of trans fluid to fill it. I measured exactly how much I drained plus the 3 qts and 8 oz extra for the pan, so I would not have to mess around all day trying to fill it.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

...
Looking forward to your radio install! I used a Dremal when adding a larger radio to the 310 dash. I just stuffed a sheet up and around things to keep the dust going anywhere but where I wanted. Really wasn't that bad.

Brad, do you remember the exact size of the opening for a Din1 unit. Web says 7 1/8 x 2", would that be the cut out?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Brad, do you remember the exact size of the opening for a Din1 unit. Web says 7 1/8 x 2", would that be the cut out?

Unfortunately no, sorry.

If it was me I'd wait until the radio shows up to be sure. I've heard that everything you read on the internet is true so the dimensions probably are 7-1/8" x 2" but I wouldn't push your luck!

[PeterH-350LE]

Yes, I am excited to get new multi media center for the 310, but the main reason I wanted to change the radio was that static everytime I touched the volume. Now, after dismantling the entire mess, I found the ground wire to be a dud with all ground coming through the dash. After I got the radio and equalizer out, I hooked it all back up with a solid ground and it sounds perfect.
I may just see if I can use the equalizer with the new system and keep it in that upper opening behind the pop up screen.

[bkahler]

Gotta love factory and PO wiring

At least you should have high confidence that the new installation will be flawless.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Gotta love factory and PO wiring

At least you should have high confidence that the new installation will be flawless.

Hmmm, look what you got me into, Brad.
This unit is heavy and will need a backstrap, but to where??????
Okay, see you in a few hours or maybe days....

[PeterH-350LE]

Hardest part is done, cutting the darn dash for Din1.
Dremel tool didn't do it for me, I went through 3 top quality metal cutting disks and finally got my trusted Bosh jig saw out with a fine new blade. Cut it like butter. I did my best to center it below the opening above, which put in in danger zone to a wire bundle feeding the gauges above. Caution if you do this !!!!
I will insulate where the wires touch the unit to keep them from rubbing.
Now the fun connecting all the wires can begin.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Hmmm, look what you got me into, Brad.
This unit is heavy and will need a backstrap, but to where??????
Okay, see you in a few hours or maybe days....

Lookin good!

I've always felt it's best to learn from someone else's mistakes so the way I see it you're my guinea pig

A back strap is going to be interesting. I'm sure you'll figure out something interesting and unique though!