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Old 02-01-2017, 02:30 PM   #101
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I think you just have Argositus, Brad.
Rub some $100 bills on it regularly, and it will get better in the short term, but apply liberally, or it will come back!
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:36 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
I think you just have Argositus, Brad.
Rub some $100 bills on it regularly, and it will get better in the short term, but apply liberally, or it will come back!
I only have one $100 dollar bill and I'm lucky to have that one so. Between the Argosy and the TR6 I'm living in the poor house
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:41 PM   #103
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This is the motorhome sticky thread right?

Found what seems to be an excellent article describing and troubleshooting a hydroboost system with also an explaination of what impact it can have on the brakes.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/oper...ssist-systems/

Your input as to wether this article is relevent, or if certain sections don't apply to us is needed.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 03-25-2017, 05:26 AM   #104
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This is the motorhome sticky thread right?

Found what seems to be an excellent article describing and troubleshooting a hydroboost system with also an explaination of what impact it can have on the brakes.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/oper...ssist-systems/

Your input as to wether this article is relevent, or if certain sections don't apply to us is needed.

Cheers
Tony
Tony, nice find!!
This is the first article I have seen that deals with the dreaded brake pre-load condition that can kill your transmission and cause you to go into a full breaking at Highway speed.
Another more shade tree mechanic way to check for it, is to raise an axle and if the wheel is not spinning freely, slowly unbolt the master cylinder, whilst your buddy checks a wheel for rotation.

from the article>>>>>>
5. If brakes are self applying and pedal is free, check for obstruction in the return line or a kinked connection between hydo-boost and pump reservoir. If obstruction or kink is found, go to step 6, otherwise go to step 7.
6. Remove obstruction or replace line as required. If condition remains, check for a damaged reaction end. If damaged the hydo-boost should be replaced or repaired.
7. If brake pedal is free of any binding conditions and return line is free of obstructions, remove the master cylinder cover.

8. Observe the brake fluid in the reservoir while rapidly depressing the brake pedal one inch.
9. Fluid surface should have some movement or spout in the forward reservoir section. Minor spouting may occur in the rearward reservoir. If no movement or spouting of fluid occurs in forward reservoir, the hydro-boost unit is defective and must be replaced or repaired.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:51 PM   #105
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I'm getting ready to replace the cockpit window seals in Peanut and my Argosy so I've been reading through all the threads on the topic and found various bits of information. The parts information I'm posting here was gleaned from an earlier post (can't remember who!) and I just added too it some part numbers from Out of Doors Mart and Vintage Trailer Supply along with a link to Peter's favorite Schlegle supplier

Oh yeah, I added a few pictures that show each part so you know what's being referenced.

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Brad
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:57 PM   #106
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Ok, I found one error in the list above. For the 74 - 76 and possibly all Argosies, the 30" x 30" side windows need two 10' pieces of Fuzzy Schlegle. Unfortunately that means the stuff Peter recommends won't work unless it can be had in longer than 8' lengths

For the record the lengths I need for each cockpit windows are:

96" - fuzzy schlegle
33" - vertical lip seal
33" - fin seal
60" - trim seal

For the 30" x 30" side slider I need:

20' fuzzy schlegle (2 10' sections)
33" - vertical lip seal
60" - trim seal
33" - real fuzzy (technical term!) vertical seal between the two panes

It's interesting the the real fuzzy seal wasn't provided on the list in my previous post.


Brad
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:27 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Ok, I found one error in the list above. For the 74 - 76 and possibly all Argosies, the 30" x 30" side windows need two 10' pieces of Fuzzy Schlegle. Unfortunately that means the stuff Peter recommends won't work unless it can be had in longer than 8' lengths

For the record the lengths I need for each cockpit windows are:

96" - fuzzy schlegle
33" - vertical lip seal
33" - fin seal
60" - trim seal

For the 30" x 30" side slider I need:

20' fuzzy schlegle (2 10' sections)
33" - vertical lip seal
60" - trim seal
33" - real fuzzy (technical term!) vertical seal between the two panes

It's interesting the the real fuzzy seal wasn't provided on the list in my previous post.


Brad
Brad, you dont need a continues piece for the coach slider windows. I put the join under the fixed window, using 3m Black weather stripping at the splices. You only want a continues pieces where all the sliding action is.
The fuzzy schlegle with the metal inside makes the windows operation even harder. 1 8' per sliding window plus 2' per window.
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Old 03-28-2017, 05:01 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Brad, you dont need a continues piece for the coach slider windows. I put the join under the fixed window, using 3m Black weather stripping at the splices. You only want a continues pieces where all the sliding action is.
The fuzzy schlegle with the metal inside makes the windows operation even harder. 1 8' per sliding window plus 2' per window.
Peter, I guess that makes sense. Of course I just got done ordering some of the Hitechglazing schlegle about 20 minutes ago for the cockpit windows

I need to order some for all of Peanut's side sliders so I'll order more for me at the same time.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:24 AM   #109
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Peter, I guess that makes sense. Of course I just got done ordering some of the Hitechglazing schlegle about 20 minutes ago for the cockpit windows

I need to order some for all of Peanut's side sliders so I'll order more for me at the same time.

Thanks!

Brad
Just started thinking about this. I've read about this front cockpit window replacement over and over, seen pix as most have gone through the motions. Has anyone every tried to do a video? I'm almost to the point of doing my windows, have had the fuzzy schlegle for months now, but would really love to see this from beginning to end. Maybe I'll go 'Google' that now......
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:40 AM   #110
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Originally Posted by crazeevw View Post
Just started thinking about this. I've read about this front cockpit window replacement over and over, seen pix as most have gone through the motions. Has anyone every tried to do a video? I'm almost to the point of doing my windows, have had the fuzzy schlegle for months now, but would really love to see this from beginning to end. Maybe I'll go 'Google' that now......
Derek, I doubt there's a video out there but nothing says you can't make one for us!!

I removed the two sliders from my cockpit windows last night. In the 10 years I've owned the Argosy the sliders have never moved, couldn't budge them at all. So last night I sprayed each side of the fuzzy schlagle where the glass sits with WD-40 and waited about 10 minutes. I then used a small pry bar wrapped in rubber and got them to slide forward. Probably took about 10 minutes total after that to get both sliders out and the rest of the fuzzy schlegle removed. I was actually somewhat surprised at how much of a non issue it really was to remove the glass.

I'm waiting on the new fuzzy schlegle from Canada to arrive and once it does I'll start putting the windows back together.

Brad
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Old 03-29-2017, 06:51 AM   #111
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Peter, I guess that makes sense. Of course I just got done ordering some of the Hitechglazing schlegle about 20 minutes ago for the cockpit windows

I need to order some for all of Peanut's side sliders so I'll order more for me at the same time.

Thanks!

Brad
I am getting ready to tackle my front sliders also. The PO redid mine with schlegle from VTS but it has deformed and the windows don't work well. I am planning to try Peter's suggestion. I purchased mine from Amazon for slightly less money (actually a higher price with cheaper shipping). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:42 AM   #112
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I'm waiting on the new fuzzy schlegle from Canada to arrive and once it does I'll start putting the windows back together.

Brad
While curious on what crazy person came up with the term "fuzzy schlegle", I'm more interested as to where in Canada of all places you're buying this stuff from? Can-am RV?

Cheers
Tony
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Old 03-29-2017, 11:21 AM   #113
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I have also love an idiots guide to the window channel replacement. I have the bits but am terrified to do it.


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Old 03-29-2017, 05:29 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
While curious on what crazy person came up with the term "fuzzy schlegle", I'm more interested as to where in Canada of all places you're buying this stuff from? Can-am RV?

Cheers
Tony
Hi-Tech Glazing Supplies, Surrey, B.C.

This is the company in the link that Peter provided.

Searching on the part number ordered from Hi-Tech (AS1268) I found this company that sells the same part number with the same description for about about a dollar less and they are located in Tukwila, WA so shipping might be a little less, assuming it's the same thing of course.

Brad
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:41 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by chiefair View Post
I am getting ready to tackle my front sliders also. The PO redid mine with schlegle from VTS but it has deformed and the windows don't work well. I am planning to try Peter's suggestion. I purchased mine from Amazon for slightly less money (actually a higher price with cheaper shipping). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It doesn't appear to be cheaper overall. I bought 4 for $11.79 totaling $47.15 with shipping of $11.21 for a grand total of $58.36.

The same quantity from Amazon would be $69.28 + $7.49 shipping for a total of $76.77. However I just found a place it Washington State that appears to be even cheaper per piece. Don't know about shipping differences.

What's strange is Hi-Tech lists the seal at $15.72 but when you finalize the bill the price per part drops to $11.79!! I have no idea why it does that but I'm not complaining

Brad
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Old 03-29-2017, 06:37 PM   #116
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Quote:
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...

What's strange is Hi-Tech lists the seal at $15.72 but when you finalize the bill the price per part drops to $11.79!! I have no idea why it does that but I'm not complaining

Brad
exchange rate, since you pay in US$?
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Old 03-29-2017, 06:39 PM   #117
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exchange rate, since you pay in US$?
Yep, that make sense!

I'm certainly not complaining
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Old 03-29-2017, 06:44 PM   #118
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Here is a step by step for the coach windows:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ce-136024.html

The cockpit window track replacement is very simple, after you find the 6-8" piece of track material in the front top of the track. Pull it out and slide the moving window forward, lift it up and carefully pull it out.
Follow my instructions in the above link to slice the new track material from the back in the corners, If you use the rubber felt type.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:32 AM   #119
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I dont think using the channel in this link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MPRM90 is the best way to go for your cab windows. It is fine for the other windows For the cab the gap is too wide and the window will not fit right. That stuff also has problems buckling going around corners.
I have used this stuff for 3 vehicles. http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1302
The new version uses a stiff nylon backing not metal. It is pricier and a pain to install but the final results are better.

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Old 03-30-2017, 04:58 AM   #120
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I have used this stuff for 3 vehicles. http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1302
The new version uses a stiff nylon backing not metal. It is pricier and a pain to install but the final results are better.

Wayne, could you expand on the "pain to install" comment!
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