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Old 02-02-2016, 03:08 PM   #71
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1979 24' Airstream Excella 24
Tipp City , Ohio
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I recently resealed my windshield. Once you get the spline out it seems like it would be pretty simple to replace the glass.
I had a local glass shop quote me $500 labor to replace my gasket. Having successfully sealed the old gasket l would not be intimidated to replace the glass. Yours is broken , take it apart , look at how it goes together and decide for yourself if you are comfortable with the task. You know your abilities better than any one.
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:37 AM   #72
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Thanks everyone!

Next Saturday I'm going to head down to my 280 to work on it some more and try to get it started.

I have a shiny brand new compatible starter and we'll be installing the new windshields.

***Here's my question...

What fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel line does my 1981 280 use and where can I buy them?

It's a gas powered GM 454 V-8.

I can't go look before I buy new ones because I'm 2 hours away from it and want to buy those replacements this week before I head down there to install them.

Thanks SO much!
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:28 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Tony, I'm surprised you didn't jump on that so that you'd have triple redundancy
Naaww, I've found a cheaper solution and stuck a Claymore under the battery box cover just inside the door. Keelers were just getting too expensive.

However, if you happen to have a spare lock cylinder for the Keeler, I'd love to have it.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 02-06-2016, 04:53 PM   #74
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1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond , Kentucky
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Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
Naaww, I've found a cheaper solution and stuck a Claymore under the battery box cover just inside the door. Keelers were just getting too expensive.

However, if you happen to have a spare lock cylinder for the Keeler, I'd love to have it.

Cheers
Tony
Well if you or anyone else that has some spare Keeler latch assemblies I need the striker plate that bolts to the door frame. Neither of the Keeler latches that I have came with a striker plate and the striker plate is unique to the keeler latch

Oh well.....
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:07 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Tap View Post
What fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel line does my 1981 280 use and where can I buy them?

It's a gas powered GM 454 V-8.

I can't go look before I buy new ones because I'm 2 hours away from it and want to buy those replacements this week before I head down there to install them.

Thanks SO much!
You'll need this 454 fuel pump with return line. Note the three fittings on the bottom of the pump. The smallest is the 1/4" return line to the tank, the next is the 3/8" barbed feed line fitting and the fitting with the compression threads is for the steel line that goes from the pump to the carburetor.

The feed line is 3/8" and the return line is 1/4". There is a steel 3/8" line ran from near the gas tank all the way up to the right front right next to the fuel pump which is bolted to the block. You'll need about 8" to 12" of each size to go from the frame over to the pump.

I'd recommend buying about 8' to 10' feed of fuel hose of both 3/8" and 1/4".

The first thing I would do is disconnect the 3/8" line at the pump and connect a new 3/8" hose and then put the other end of that hose in a 5-gallon gas can. That will make it a lot easier to start the engine. Once you know the engine runs then you can commence to replace all of the rubber fuel lines. The last thing you want to do is to have to crank and crank the engine to try and get fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Pulling gas from a gas can is a LOT easier on the starter and battery.

Also along the frame rail there will likely be several rubber splices in the steel tubing (both the 3/8" and 1/4" tubing) so be sure and crawl around underneath and follow the fuel lines all the way from the engine pump back to the fuel tank. There will also likely be a fuel filter along the frame somewhere and very possibly an electric fuel pump back towards the fuel tank.

The electric pump is a pusher pump that is installed due to the long distance between the tank and the engine. The electric pump also helps overcome vapor lock when things get hot.

Have fun!

Brad
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Old 02-07-2016, 03:13 AM   #76
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What method or product did you use to reseal the window?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregsch View Post
Tap
I recently resealed my windshield. Once you get the spline out it seems like it would be pretty simple to replace the glass.
I had a local glass shop quote me $500 labor to replace my gasket. Having successfully sealed the old gasket l would not be intimidated to replace the glass. Yours is broken , take it apart , look at how it goes together and decide for yourself if you are comfortable with the task. You know your abilities better than any one.
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Old 02-07-2016, 03:40 AM   #77
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My airstream motorhome has the beginnings of the same wheel arch problem on the driver's side. I believe it is electrolysis / corrosion stemming from the outter aluminum skin touching the inner steel wheel well. That section from the where the rivets are missing in your photo down to the trim of the arch - both the steel and aluminum are sandwiched together and touching or touching at least at the very bottom where the trim attaches. I think the corrosion process is accelerated but water leaking into the inner and outer skin.

I believe the original black paint is the only thing keeping the two metals apart. I have yet to address my issue but maybe a separating material like thin plastic between the two and keeping it oiled would prevent the corrosion along with preventing water leaks. I had planned to look into it this spring and possibly raise the arch up or find a larger arch trim to cover the missing aluminum that has now tuned into white dust.

If any other members have seen or fixed this issue, please chime in

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
You added some more pics while I was writing my last post...
Awesome!
Gives us some more clues.

Yes, I agree with Peter.... some critter hunts would be VERY wise... maybe Peter will break out his Pipe(Being from Hamlet)... sorry Peter, I had to say it!

Looks like you might need some AC work!
The only kinda scary thing I saw was the rear wheel arch... not sure what happened there, but I bet its fixable.
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Old 02-07-2016, 07:41 AM   #78
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1981 28' Airstream 280
Minneapolis/St. Paul , Minnesota
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Tap's 1981 280 Motorhome (Purchased January 2016)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
You'll need this 454 fuel pump with return line. Note the three fittings on the bottom of the pump. The smallest is the 1/4" return line to the tank, the next is the 3/8" barbed feed line fitting and the fitting with the compression threads is for the steel line that goes from the pump to the carburetor.



The feed line is 3/8" and the return line is 1/4". There is a steel 3/8" line ran from near the gas tank all the way up to the right front right next to the fuel pump which is bolted to the block. You'll need about 8" to 12" of each size to go from the frame over to the pump.



I'd recommend buying about 8' to 10' feed of fuel hose of both 3/8" and 1/4".



The first thing I would do is disconnect the 3/8" line at the pump and connect a new 3/8" hose and then put the other end of that hose in a 5-gallon gas can. That will make it a lot easier to start the engine. Once you know the engine runs then you can commence to replace all of the rubber fuel lines. The last thing you want to do is to have to crank and crank the engine to try and get fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Pulling gas from a gas can is a LOT easier on the starter and battery.



Also along the frame rail there will likely be several rubber splices in the steel tubing (both the 3/8" and 1/4" tubing) so be sure and crawl around underneath and follow the fuel lines all the way from the engine pump back to the fuel tank. There will also likely be a fuel filter along the frame somewhere and very possibly an electric fuel pump back towards the fuel tank.



The electric pump is a pusher pump that is installed due to the long distance between the tank and the engine. The electric pump also helps overcome vapor lock when things get hot.



Have fun!



Brad

Brad, you have been hugely helpful! Man, I appreciate it so much. Especially having the direct link to the fuel pump on eBay. I clicked on it and bought it right away.

Next question, where can I buy the correct electric fuel pump? Do you have a link to that?

Also, where do you recommend I buy the 10 feet each of the fuel hoses?

Finally, are any of the belts not too hard to get at in my 280?

And if so, which ones and where can I order them from, so I can bring those down to my Airstream to replace 'em while we're in there. Obviously any old belts on there will be super old and cracked, so I'd love to replace them all if it's not too hard to get at them and install them.

I love the links to eBay, so easy to buy exactly what I need!

Thank you SO much!!!
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Old 02-07-2016, 09:27 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tap View Post
..

Also, where do you recommend I buy the 10 feet each of the fuel hoses?

..
I would replace any rubber fuel line with 30R9 only. Here is an interesting thread discussing the issue:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159...nt-140807.html
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:28 AM   #80
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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Thumbs up

Great info guys.
I concur with Brad's fuel pump suggestion, that was just like the one I just replaced.


I did mine thru the passenger wheel arch, but there are several different ways to get at it. The biggest issue is the dreaded push rod, that falls down and does not allow you to get the arm of the pump in place easy... Google search "Big Block Fuel pump rod".

You will need to buy/own a good jack(i use an 8t bottle jack), and a pair of 6t jack stands for your own safety...

On my '84, the fuel pump to chassis rail line hose was 1/4"... but rearward of that the return line was 7/16". Feed line was 3/8 all thru.

On the subject of tools/supplies...
Here are a few items I suggest you begin collecting...
Jack and Jackstands as above.
Couple of tubes of Tempro 635 or equivalent sealant.
Rivet Gun.
Some Olympic rivets.
I have an "On Board" tool kit... a Craftsman set in a box.
Add to the above a breaker bar and 1" socket for wheel lugs(I think).
Add a Psiclops XL180 dual tire pressure gauge(under$50 off ebay)
Digital Multimeter... I have a cheap $5 HF unit always onboard, but a good one is always close to hand as well as my Favorites, PowerProbe3($100) and ECT 2000($120) short/circuit tracer.
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:42 AM   #81
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tap View Post
Brad, you have been hugely helpful! Man, I appreciate it so much. Especially having the direct link to the fuel pump on eBay. I clicked on it and bought it right away.

Next question, where can I buy the correct electric fuel pump? Do you have a link to that?

Also, where do you recommend I buy the 10 feet each of the fuel hoses?

Finally, are any of the belts not too hard to get at in my 280?

And if so, which ones and where can I order them from, so I can bring those down to my Airstream to replace 'em while we're in there. Obviously any old belts on there will be super old and cracked, so I'd love to replace them all if it's not too hard to get at them and install them.

I love the links to eBay, so easy to buy exactly what I need!

Thank you SO much!!!
Tap, definitely follow Peter's advice on what type of fuel hose to buy. It will make a big difference in the long run.

There has been some discussion as to whether the return line is 1/4" or 5/16". Don't buy the rubber fuel hose until you get the fuel pump in hand so you can measure the return line to be sure. Also buy a bunch of clamps for both the feed and return as frequently the hose clamps are in pretty bad shape. I've found it easier to just buy new clamps every time I replace rubber hoses. I only reuse the existing ones if they are in good shape.

Any good good auto parts store should be able to provide the fuel line, just make sure it matches the spec Peter provided.

Here's a thread showing where the fuel pump is located on some models. Post #21 is where the pictures are.

Here's a carter fuel pump that should work.

This carter pump has been used by an Airstream owner so I would think it would work as well

Here's a thread describing the belt replacement on an 84 310. Note, the belts are likely different numbers than your coach will use. You probably don't have a smog pump so you need to keep that in mind as well.

Here's some notes that I have for my 74 Argosy 454. It does not have a smog pump so the notes might be closer to what you're looking for. Just keep in mind the belt lengths are not necessarily what you're looking for. I have a different alternator installed which changed the belt length and a different AC compressor mount so that will likely affect lengths as well. It's important you follow the installation sequence that I've listed below. Also you'll have to work from above while laying on the engine and also from below at times.

1st - (7410) PS to Crank (Tension PS pump first using 1/2" ratchet connected to top of PS pump bracket)

2nd - (7603) A/C to PS to Crank to WP (Tension after PS pump has been tensioned, Tension via long screw on top of A/C pump mount)

3rd - (7470) Alt to WP to Crank (Tension Alt via top mounting bracket, Reminder: Lower alternator bolt is accessible form underneath right front wheel well)

And finally here's a thread where I'm documenting my 454 engine build. Post #19 has a picture of the front of the engine to give you an idea of what you'll be working on.


Brad
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:52 AM   #82
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....Add to the above a breaker bar and 1" socket for wheel lugs(I think).
Steve, my 84 310 needed a 1-1/16" socket whereas my 74 Argosy needs a 1" socket.

Not sure if the difference is due to the 10 lug vs 8 lug. Took me a little searching to find a 1-1/16" impact socket but ebay came to the rescue on that one

Definitely get a breaker bar, a LONG breaker bar!

Brad
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:17 PM   #83
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Ive had good luck ordering belts from V-belt Supply.
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:22 PM   #84
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To Clarify Brad...
I worked from back to front... all my return lines were 7/16"... You said your lines were 1/4... and I assumed it was just a production year thing... until I got to the front... where the Mechanical pump to chassis rail pipe was 1/4"! It is so, on the pump and on the chassis rail pipe, that is actually necked down there. I tried to use the 7/16 and was a sloppy fit on both, so went out and bought a 12" length of 1/4.
I was surprised... and began to wonder if the 1/4" pipe was there to somehow add a slight restriction... But I think the real story is that the earlier years the 454 and 350's all had 1/4" return, and so that's what the pumps are...

Tap,
You coach has a few miles on it I saw... It was a known issue of fuel supply AND vapor lock on climbs that prompted GM to suggest the addition of a rear mounted electrical pump. If your baby has one, great! If not, its something you should plan to add sometime... you have plenty of other priorities!
It needs some planning and electrical mods to install correctly, with a oil pressure switch cutoff. Mine is on a simple switch... not good, as in the event of a engine stall as a result of a accident or electrical fire, it would keep pumping fuel....
The GM chassis manual has a detailed instruction on how it should be done.
Grab a copy of the owners manual, and GM Chassis manual, and have a digital copy at home, and a printed hard copy in the motorhome.
Personally, I have 2 big ring binders in the MH... with a Owners Manual, Chassis Manual, in one. In the other I have printed copies of the Roof AC manual, Furnace Manual, Fridge manual, and everything else I could find!
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