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Old 03-22-2016, 07:03 PM   #155
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I blew up the last picture and did a double take wondering what kind of badas$$ ATV tires were you running Tap. It looked like somebody had replaced the dually's with a big single.

I do love my Premier RV CAA service as it has saved my bacon and more than paid for itself a couple of times now.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:09 PM   #156
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Hehe!
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:12 PM   #157
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Tap's 1981 280 Motorhome (Purchased January 2016)

When it got up on the flatbed, I could finally get a good look under it.

I assume this is the black water tank and it has a big crack in it.

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Where does a brother get a new tank exactly like my 280's original so that it will fit exactly in the same spot?

(Good thing I didn't use it yet. Code Brown! Code Brown! &#128541
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:58 AM   #158
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On the upside, your tank is very accessible and looks to be a very plain jane square tank, versus my 310 which is very oddly shaped. I would try Inland RV first, taking as many measurements of your original as possible to match. If that doesn't pan out, there are many places out there that do construct plastic or even aluminium tanks out there that could reconstruct your tank or have a tank in stock that closely matches your tank. The only thing you may have to do is make new straps and mounting the inlet pipe.
I would strongly suggest replacement versus fixing your original as the plastic is well over 30 years old and is done.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...water-tank.htm

http://www.icondirect.com/categories...Holding-Tanks/

http://www.tank-depot.com/browse.aspx?id=9

Cheers
Tony
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Old 03-28-2016, 06:36 PM   #159
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1981 28' Airstream 280
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So I really need to replace the driver's cockpit window frame as soon as possible. So does this make sense, I could drill out the old rivets with a drill bit, then attach the replacement window from to the Airstream with Olympic rivets dipped in Vulkem and maybe even some Vulkem shot into each rivet hole? And then I use a rivet shaver on the finished rivet heads?

1) Does all of this make sense and make the procedure successful?

2) What size and kind of drill bit will I need to drill out the old rivets?

2) What kind of rivet gun will I need for Olympic rivets? Can someone please provide an Amazon link to the right rivet gun that I will need?

3) Are all Olympic rivets the same size? And made of the same material? An Amazon link for the Olympic rivets too?

4) Can I buy Vulkem on Amazon as well?

5) Finally, how about an amazon link to a rivet shaver?

Thank you all SO much!!
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:05 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fawcett View Post
So I really need to replace the driver's cockpit window frame as soon as possible. So does this make sense, I could drill out the old rivets with a drill bit, then attach the replacement window from to the Airstream with Olympic rivets dipped in Vulkem and maybe even some Vulkem shot into each rivet hole? And then I use a rivet shaver on the finished rivet heads?
Look back a few posts to where I describe how I removed the cockpit windows on a 345. It's not quite as simple as you hoping for. There are screws on the front where it fastens to the cockpit structure and the drain tube along the bottom channel. Among other minor details.

Quote:
1) Does all of this make sense and make the procedure successful?

2) What size and kind of drill bit will I need to drill out the old rivets?
For exterior rivets I think it's 5/32" for exterior rivets and 1/8" for interior rivets.

Quote:
2) What kind of rivet gun will I need for Olympic rivets? Can someone please provide an Amazon link to the right rivet gun that I will need?
Quote:
3) Are all Olympic rivets the same size? And made of the same material? An Amazon link for the Olympic rivets too?
No there are several sizes. Best price I've found is on ebay. You'll need 5/32" Olympic rivets on the outside and standard aluminum 1/8" rivets for the inside.

Quote:
4) Can I buy Vulkem on Amazon as well?
Probably. Vulkem 116 or tempro 635. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me

Quote:
5) Finally, how about an amazon link to a rivet shaver?
My guess is youll need to buy it from Vintage Traile Supply or Out Of Doors Mart. They run around $200
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:44 PM   #161
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Look back a few posts to where I describe how I removed the cockpit windows on a 345. It's not quite as simple as you hoping for. There are screws on the front where it fastens to the cockpit structure and the drain tube along the bottom channel. Among other minor details.



For exterior rivets I think it's 5/32" for exterior rivets and 1/8" for interior rivets.





No there are several sizes. Best price I've found is on ebay. You'll need 5/32" Olympic rivets on the outside and standard aluminum 1/8" rivets for the inside.



Probably. Vulkem 116 or tempro 635. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me



My guess is youll need to buy it from Vintage Traile Supply or Out Of Doors Mart. They run around $200

Get the olympic rivets without the little washer, if all you can find is rivets with washers remove them prior to riveting.
Both vulkem 116 and tempro 635 work well and both are a mess to work with, Vulkem 116 even more so than the tempro 635. I prefer the vulkem 116 for setting panels and windows, since it also is a very powerful adhesive. Tempro 635 works very well for sealing around windows and doors, since its less gritty than the vulkem.
Protect adjacent areas and wear rubber gloves when you work with is.
If you spray your hands or gloves with foamy Glass cleaner, the vulkem doesn't stick to it.
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Old 03-29-2016, 07:06 AM   #162
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Quote:
2) What kind of rivet gun will I need for Olympic rivets? Can someone please provide an Amazon link to the right rivet gun that I will need?
Any normal rivet gun will work. If you're going to do a LOT of them you can buy an air rivet gun from places like Harbor Freight. I have both but have yet to actually use the air rivet gun.

Quote:
5) Finally, how about an amazon link to a rivet shaver?
I think this is the rivet shaver that I have.
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:09 PM   #163
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Ok, I'm really bummed.

My 280 has been at a local mechanic for a long time because my motorhome sat for 20 years and has needed a lot of mechanical fixing, cleanup, and tuneups.

It has been going mostly fine, except for costing me more money than I can afford.

Now I knew that the old radiator is in bad shape and has been leaking, etc.

I was hoping that they could just fix it, but I guess it's bad enough that they need to replace it.

The guy called around trying to find an equal replacement, but he doesn't know where to get a compatible model. I'm beaten down by this setback after so many other expensive setbacks and now I fear that my big goal of getting to Penn Wood next month may be fading away. I'm so sad.

Are there even any compatible radiators available? And if so from where?

Or is there any chance that any of you classic AS Moho guys would have an extra one? A long shot I'm sure.

I'm just SO sad about this.
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Old 04-20-2016, 12:43 AM   #164
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Hi Tap, although these radiators are not available as new replacements, there is no need to panic.

A good radiator shop will be able to repair/re-core and that is what most folks have done. This is not inexpensive (as you are finding with anything to do with these beasts) and it is going to take a little research to find a good local shop, but as an example Bella has a re-cored radiator (with a new triple core to improve cooling) and Peanuts radiator will be pressure tested and re-cored if needed - most do.
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:40 AM   #165
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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Take a look at this. In stock ready to ship.
http://store.stepvanparts.com/RADIAT...MC-STEPVAN.HTM
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:48 AM   #166
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Hi Tap, although these radiators are not available as new replacements, there is no need to panic.



A good radiator shop will be able to repair/re-core and that is what most folks have done. This is not inexpensive (as you are finding with anything to do with these beasts) and it is going to take a little research to find a good local shop, but as an example Bella has a re-cored radiator (with a new triple core to improve cooling) and Peanuts radiator will be pressure tested and re-cored if needed - most do.

Thank you Martin for giving me hope.
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:50 AM   #167
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Originally Posted by Hans 34.5 View Post
Take a look at this. In stock ready to ship.
http://store.stepvanparts.com/RADIAT...MC-STEPVAN.HTM

Oh wow!
Are these really compatible?
If so, I'd love for people to chime in on which exact model would work with my 1981 280.

Hopefully it's one of the less expensive ones there.

Let me know.

Thanks!!!
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:51 AM   #168
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Tap, if your coach has the early vertical (tall and skinny) vs the later horizontal (wider than tall) radiator then you won't find a replacement radiator available. Your only option would be to have it re-cored like Martin and so many others have had done to their radiators.

I had one of the later style horizontal radiators re-cored back in 2006 and it cost around $500. Martin's vertical radiator done recently was about double that.

Sometimes the radiators can be fixed but I wouldn't bet on those odds. Your best bet is to take the radiator to a good old fashioned radiator shop and have them re-core it. That should solve the problem for another 30 years or so.

When you're talking about radiators the news is usually never good news

Brad
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