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Old 10-15-2014, 03:35 PM   #1
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Supersteer Bell Cranks

So I'm thinking/planning on replacing the bell cranks on my 310. Supersteer looks like the way to go and I think I can do the install with a little help from a young buck and a set of pickle forks. Then I plan on taking it in to have the rest of the front end componants evaluated by pros and finish up with an alignment.

Those of you who have pulled the trigger on those pricey Supersteer bell cranks are you happy with the results and did you replace them yourself? Any comments/evaluation/tips on install would be much appreciated.

Thanks folks,
Mike
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Old 10-15-2014, 08:34 PM   #2
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Mike

I was sort of lucky when I bought my 310 that the PO had some major suspension work done including one Supersteer bell crank. When I had the coach certified. the garage recommended replacing the other steering bell crank. I purchased another SS but had the garage put it in as they had it apart already. Even just adding one SS tightened up the steering considerably.

I would highly recommend going with Henderson SS and enjoy a more relaxed ride without having to correct every second.

If I recall the instructions seemed pretty straight forward and they do have a tech line. I plan on using some more of Supersteer products in the future.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:03 PM   #3
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Thanks Tony, Ive read and read on several rv sites about the p30 series chassis and it seems that those bell cranks were really a weak link in the steering componants. Some have claimed that the brass bushing oem design was only good for 20 to 30k miles. Im betting that mine are original and im right at 120,000k on the 310. Im guessing that once i get it in to the shop for further inspection there will be more parts to replace, but since those bell cranks seem to be a pretty straight forward install, i figure I'll save a little dough by installing them myself. Couple hrs of shop time anyway.
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:37 PM   #4
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SSSHHHHH!!!! You're pissing on Murphy's grave by stating how long to fix anything on an Airstream.
It has gotten to a point now working on mine, that I start with a worse case senario, say 10 hrs to change a lightbulb, only to be pleasantly surprised when it takes me 5 hours; happier still if I didn't break the FREAKIN light cover getting the bloody thing out. Seriously, have you tied to get out the long one piece light covers in the main area.

God help you if you anger the Airstream Gods by changing something to a newer better system. I swear to God that even the most mundane task on mine can easily take on epic proportions. I now whistle just like I'm not doing anything, then try and accomplish my task before the bastards wake up and catch me.

Goodluck
Cheers
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:22 AM   #5
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Hahahahahahaha....TRUTH!
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:33 AM   #6
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And yes, I pulled those brittle plastic covers off to clean and change out some bulbs. I looked and looked at em thinking I was missing something on getting them out but noooooo. I posted the question here on the forums, feeling kinda stupid, I mean come on, it's a lens cover, surely I can out smart it! PITA


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Old 10-24-2014, 12:25 PM   #7
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Wellllll, ordered 2 SUPERSTEER bell cranks, should be here in a couple days. $$ but should be well worth the do ra me. Hoping i can get these suckers on myself. God Im cheap.
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Old 10-26-2014, 03:24 PM   #8
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I'm really beginning to dislike tapered shaft connections. So, I've tried a pickle fork, tried hitting the side of the collar, put "some heat" on it. (I only have a plumbers torch with map gas). Going to get another can of PB BLASTER to soak em down. I cant get that sucker to budge off the bell crank tapered shaft. Any tricks or tips or magic anybody employs when trying to dislodge from a tapered shaft. I can only get a swing at the pickle fork from one direction. Any advice appreciated.
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Old 10-26-2014, 04:29 PM   #9
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As much as this pains me to say this........I told you so, Karma is a bitch buddy.

Yes, you can place me on ignore now.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayco View Post
I'm really beginning to dislike tapered shaft connections. So, I've tried a pickle fork, tried hitting the side of the collar, put "some heat" on it. (I only have a plumbers torch with map gas). Going to get another can of PB BLASTER to soak em down. I cant get that sucker to budge off the bell crank tapered shaft. Any tricks or tips or magic anybody employs when trying to dislodge from a tapered shaft. I can only get a swing at the pickle fork from one direction. Any advice appreciated.
The best way to break a taper fitting loose is to put a load on it and then hit it with a hammer. In other words if you can clamp a wedge to put a separating force or load on the joint then strike it to create a shock.

Have fun.
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:21 PM   #11
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Not yet Tony....yet...
I think I got ya there Dan. Some type of wedge to create some static separating pressure then wack it.
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:28 PM   #12
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I got a piece of one inch (id) pipe x 36" long that slips nice and snug over the pickle fork shaft. It sticks out past the bumper a foot or so, i can get a decent swing at it with a heavier sledge. Ill give that a shot in the morning.
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:41 PM   #13
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I got a piece of one inch (id) pipe x 36" long that slips nice and snug over the pickle fork shaft. It sticks out past the bumper a foot or so, i can get a decent swing at it with a heavier sledge. Ill give that a shot in the morning.
If you can wedge that pickle fork in with the pipe, have someone stand on the pipe to load the joint and then beat on the joint with your biggest hammer. That would do better than just hitting the fork.
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:47 PM   #14
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Ahhhhhhhhhhh, yes sir, got ya. Good idea if I can get it in there enough to catch.
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