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Old 05-21-2011, 05:35 PM   #29
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Just looking at one of these, It seems to me that the current style of large covers would be prone to break easily right at the rivet point...is that pretty accurate?

I'm thinking that a simple design mod might make a huge difference on these. If the rivet point were beefed-up, and extended through the piece to the top, then force would be applied directly to the rivet instead of the thin portion of material forming the holes.

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It also appears to me that the tabs on each side of the piece are incredibly thin. Is there a clearance issue on the holes these are inserted into, or could these be 2x-3x thicker?

Thoughts? Suggestions?
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Old 05-22-2011, 04:13 PM   #30
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Yes on my 3rd Airstream Trailer but still missing the 280.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:48 PM   #31
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Yes on my 3rd Airstream Trailer but still missing the 280.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:20 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by SwanMfg View Post
Just looking at one of these, It seems to me that the current style of large covers would be prone to break easily right at the rivet point...is that pretty accurate?

Attachment 130343

It also appears to me that the tabs on each side of the piece are incredibly thin. Is there a clearance issue on the holes these are inserted into, or could these be 2x-3x thicker?

Thoughts? Suggestions?
Yeah they snap off right at the rivet. They also become so brittle they can break nearly anywhere. I can take a couple photos of the holes themselves if you would like.
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:43 AM   #33
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Yeah they snap off right at the rivet. They also become so brittle they can break nearly anywhere. I can take a couple photos of the holes themselves if you would like.
That's pretty apparent just thinking of how force is transferred through these if hit with something. Lots of stress focused on a small amount of material.

The brittleness is all about UV exposure. Some materials are more susceptible to this than others. There are additives that drastically reduce the effects of the sun beating on the pieces...and I would think that whoever has been making these has been adding UV inhibitors into their mix...but who knows??? Doesn't sound like it from the reports I've been seeing here. But, to be fair...I don't know if the designers of these parts took into consideration the reflective effect of sunlight off of the aluminum exterior on the pieces. These things can get baked.

Pictures would be good. Hole dimensions would be great too. Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-23-2011, 07:58 AM   #34
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Have been working on fabricating these from stock alluminum, but still have not achieved what I like. If I do, I'll post drawings.
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:39 PM   #35
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I'm redo'ing all the windows on the Argosy 24 that I just purchased. The schlagle and weatherstrip is bad enough...now I have to deal with the weep holes and covers. I'm assuming that one of the contributors to why my windows were frozen-up is because all the weep hole covers are not covered. But can someone educate me on why these things need to be covered? If they are there to "weep" condensation, etc. then why must they be covered? I noticed the other day that even some of the windows on my house have weep holes and covers.

Lastly, since the darned covers are so expensive, has anyone filled the holes with some vulkem? I'm not talking about squirting so much in that you do harm, but just cover the hole. The vulkem that I've removed in my Airstream work over the past years has shown me that it kinda stays together. I imagine that one could pull the vulkem out years later and as long as it was done without squirting too much in there; it would pop out, I think. Anyone tried it?
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