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Old 11-05-2014, 12:58 PM   #1
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Suburban nt30 ma to a nt30 sp furnace.

Does anyone know if the suburban nt30 sp innards will slide into the old nt30 ma metal housing? Ive got the sp on order, should be here in a couple days. If i have to remove the old "ma" housing its going to be a real PITA and probably require some cutting on the cabinet in the kitchen. The other question is if the old "ma" housing has adequate fins for air return? Has anyone done this switch out. The dimensions are the same and the only modification that i can see from the pictures is that i need to cut a new hole in the existing housing for the gas line. May have to cut a new hole for the electrical connect also but couldnt tell from the pics of the sp. thank you folks.....

Mike
Ps. The folks at Suburban were pretty much worthless when I asked them. Im sure its a CYA thing, gas and all.
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:32 PM   #2
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I don't want to scare you at all Mike but if I remember I had a bitch of a time getting out my old furnace. A PO had added 1/4" Luan to the subfloor and linoleumed over it. That 1/4" necessitated me having to unscrew my kitchen cabinet all along its front from its baseboard; then John (Shepherd57) using a 2x4 as a lever bought me the clearance to get the furnace out.

I was amazed that Airstream allowed literally 0 room for height and not much more for width, so look at the specs and if the height is taller you may have a problem. However I also realize that all Airstreams wern't built the same, so yours could be different.

I junked my Suburban and am going Platinum Cat.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:30 PM   #3
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Im in the exact same situation Tony. Previous owner did the same thing and im faced with that same 1/4". I can get the furnace out of its housing but i cant get the metal housing out. The dimensions of the new furnace are supposed to be the same as the old so I'm hoping i can leave the housing in place and slip the innards in. A little modification to the existing but nothing too bad. I was hoping someone here had done this swap and could verify that its possible. I guess we will see in a couple days.
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Old 11-06-2014, 07:02 AM   #4
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[QUOTE=Isuzusweet;1535619]I don't want to scare you at all Mike but if I remember I had a bitch of a time getting out my old furnace. A PO had added 1/4" Luan to the subfloor and linoleumed over it. That 1/4" necessitated me having to unscrew my kitchen cabinet all along its front from its baseboard; then John (Shepherd57) using a 2x4 as a lever bought me the clearance to get the furnace out.

I was amazed that Airstream allowed literally 0 room for height and not much more for width, so look at the specs and if the height is taller you may have a problem. However I also realize that all Airstreams wern't built the same, so yours could be different.

I junked my Suburban and am going Platinum Cat.

Cheers
Tony[/

What about raising the shelf an inch or so to solve the issue once and for all?

Suburban, platinum cat, etc. what is the best modern, quiet, efficient, reasonably priced choice to consider?

I'm considering replacement of my original dometic units at this time.

Thanks, Richard
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:36 AM   #5
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The furnace in the 310 sits on the floor under the bottom most drawer in the cabinet next to the stove. The cross member under the drawer (and the toe kick) blocks the removal of the furnace. I wish it was as easy as relocating a shelf!!!
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:38 AM   #6
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Oh Sorry Mike, I was looking at the location in the 345. Where it is under the sink.

Tony. Why are you getting rid of your suburban, worn out, not working well to begin with? That is one of the choices I'm thinking about. You are not impressed with its performance?

I don't think the exposed radiant type is the thing for me. Would rather find a replacement under counter mounted furnace.
Any other choices out there that will fit the space and be installed from the inside.

Cheers Richard
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Old 11-06-2014, 12:28 PM   #7
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Ooooh no sorrys buddy, Airstream just kinda blew it on the design if you ever need to service or replace. Sorry if i sounded smart a--!
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Old 11-06-2014, 06:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tevake View Post
Oh Sorry Mike, I was looking at the location in the 345. Where it is under the sink.

Tony. Why are you getting rid of your suburban, worn out, not working well to begin with? That is one of the choices I'm thinking about. You are not impressed with its performance?

Cheers Richard
Hi Richard

I decided to replace the Suburban to A) Gain extra kitchen storage (A really big drawer replaces the furnace. B) I want to boondock and not have to worry about running the batteries and propane down with an inefficient propane and electricity guzzling monster. C) Saved some weight with the furnace and all the ducting gone. D) Not to give the mice that built a virtual palace at the very back of my furnace a home to do it again. I hate to think of the consequences if the furnace had worked and lit up with that huge nest right beside the burner.

The Platinum Cat costs at most .08 cents an hour for the large one. The heater is vented so no water vapour build up. I am mounting on in the front cabinet door between my two side buckets and a small one in the very back end wall between my two couches in my convertible lounge.

Product

Cheers
Tony
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Old 11-08-2014, 02:40 PM   #9
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So ive got the new suburban nt30sp installed. Boy the new ones seem pretty cheap. It goes through the ignition sequence, it sparks and a flame burns for a couple seconds and then goes out. This furnace only has one wire going to the ignitor where the old one had two, one for the ignitor and one for the flame sensor. I cant seem to find a flame sensor on this new one. So it ignites and flame burns blue for maybe 2 seconds then goes out. Do you folks have some ideas on next thing to check? I bled the gas line some, loosened it up while the gas was turned on until i smelled propane. Could it be just more air in the lines? Ive tried it about ten times and it foes the same thing every time. I just went out and loosened the gas fitting again and bled it, soaped it up to make sure there was pressure. Ive got the power vent running to vent it a bit before i try to get it to light again. Boy i dont want to pull that sucker out. Any ideas????
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Old 11-08-2014, 03:45 PM   #10
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Sounds like it is the type of ignited that sparks, then senses the flMe with the same electrode. I have a household stove that works that way. Make sure the spark electrode is being hit by the flame when it is lighted. If the electrode is not kissed by the flame the module thinks the flame did not ignite. Bend or re-position the mount but be very careful not to crack the ceramic insulator. Also, if the insulator is a bit dirty flame sensing my fail as well.


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Old 11-08-2014, 04:01 PM   #11
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Thank you rmkrum. Im looking all over the interweb for info and i HAVE seen reference to your point. I also just found on a Suburban document that ALL of this series furnace have flame sensors. So maybe...just maybe...all i have to do is adjust the bend on that sucker down into the flame. Thanks so much for chiming in on this one, i really really dont want to have to pull it back out and do a bunch of diagnosis.......its brand spankin new! Oh well, ill give that a try, sure seems like that could be it. My back hurts
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Old 11-08-2014, 04:05 PM   #12
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Wry grin. Understand on the back ache. I replaced my hot water heater with a tankless. The day I started it, it rained after I pulled it out and pulled my back out as well. Not a fun day. The tankless is priceless if you like long showers (and helps achy backs as well).

Goo luck with the furnace. Hopefully it's a minor issue.


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Old 11-08-2014, 05:17 PM   #13
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I havent gone back out to try it yet. But, in Suburbans literature on this furnace they mention the ignitor AND they mention the flame sensor. Nowhere do they point out that its the same part, even though their older units have a separate and distinct wire going to each one and they are clearly two different "rods" on the ignitor plate. Even though they mention the flame sensor in the manual, there is no reference to it on the parts list......confusing? For me it is, you would think they could include one sentence stating that they are one in the same (if indeed that turns out to be the case) hope it works. My back hurts
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:28 PM   #14
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Never saw a hardware manual that couldn't be made clearer, but they seem to stop writing and editing when they run out of time or money, and they don't go for clarity, IMHO.

Kitchen aid appliance books are a prime bad example.


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