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Old 02-07-2007, 12:01 PM   #15
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Smile Progress

Got the blower assembly out and it's shot. the motor bearings are wornout and the fan cage made of plastic is broken in several places. Looks like the fan sucked up a mounting bolt. The motor bearings were so worn that the armature was rubbing on the stator. This thing is DOA.

Emailed Airstream tech support who told me the supplier of the dash a/c system was Acme Radiator and A/C. ACME Home Page. I called them and to my delight, they have a replacement assembly $81. I priced motors alone for more than that. They put it on UPS today, I'll keep updating this. maybe add some pictures.
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Old 02-08-2007, 09:44 AM   #16
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pictures would be great!
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Old 02-08-2007, 08:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
David, one thing is certain. We're waiting to hear what your find out. I was into the same area last weekend trying to find a little more heat for the coach as I'm traveling in the cold more than I want this month.
I don't feel I'm getting enough heat/flow out of my heater core and wonder how much trouble you had getting the core out. I've toyed with the idea of doing a reverse flush from the front of the heater assembly outside. Your thoughts?
Glen, removing the heater core was not difficult. It simply sits in a slot and is held in place by the air box cover. Once you remove the hoses, it will slide right out. Make sure your water flow regulator is opening up all the way before you go to all this trouble. This same company makes an auxiliary heater.
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:04 PM   #18
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I was ordering a new hanger bearing for the driveline today from Mill Supply so I ordered a new gate valve for the coolant hose. I'll put that in when it arrives and check the old one when it's out. I've got the aux. heater in the step down from the cab behind the co-pilots chair.
Even though I've got sufficent cooling I'm wondering about coolant flow as my vaccum is I think weak. My vaccum dependant cruise control works great at 3100 rpm but not at 2800? I'm wondering if it's not time to replace the water pump? Or at least the thermostat housing where the vaccum takeoff is.
Insufficient flow might explain the weaker heat through the heater core.
Comments?
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:21 PM   #19
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I don't think vacuum and coolant flow have a interaction. If your engine has no overheating problems, particularly on the long hauls up grade, then your water pump, and entire cooling system, should be fine. I'd concentrate on low flow to the heater cores. Listen to me, a Floridian. Pushed 80 today. Got my tomatoes and peppers passed the two leaf stage.
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:26 AM   #20
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Yes, I'm aware that the major vaccum takeoff is on the base of the carb. but there is also a vaccum hose on the thermostat housing too. It's likely just time to replace all the vaccum hoses.
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Old 02-17-2007, 01:40 PM   #21
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Dash fan fix

It's repaired. The new replacement blower is identical to the original and fit right in. The hardest part was getting the fasteners back in place to hold the blower in the air box. No room. I finally resorted to assembling a packet consisting of a rubber washer, a ss washer, and a self locking nut. I glued all this to a socket and was able to get the nut started. Runs great -
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Old 02-17-2007, 01:44 PM   #22
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Dash fan fix - more pic

Some more views. If you have specific questions, you can pm me
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Old 02-18-2007, 07:43 AM   #23
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Dave, great post and photos. I hope you lubed the pivot points on the air supply door. I found mine originally was very tight and would not always close. A little lube worked wonders.
Great work around on the fasteners for the blower. I had to use JB Weld on my backer plate for the LCD mount nuts due to limited access.
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Old 02-26-2007, 04:28 PM   #24
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Where is the fuse?

for the dash heater/AC located. We have a diagram for the fuses that are in the glove box but none say heater or AC. When we move the fan speed lever nothing happens so my first thought (and easiest fix ) is a fuse. Thanks
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:07 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by str8strm
for the dash heater/AC located. We have a diagram for the fuses that are in the glove box but none say heater or AC. When we move the fan speed lever nothing happens so my first thought (and easiest fix ) is a fuse. Thanks
Ron, if your MH fuse block is like our 84 310 then the fuse will be coupled with a wire running from the blower into the fuse block area. If that wire is not plugged into the fuse block it doesn't matter about the fuse On ours the end of the wire from the blower was melted and the connector was gone.

So you're actually looking for a wire AND fuse combintion to make it work. I don't have the manual handy to point out what is fuse location. If someone hasn't chimed in by tomorrow with that info I'll find my manual.

Good luck!

Brad
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:09 PM   #26
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Ron,

I've scanned in the page in our manual that shows the fuse block and associated connections.

Hope this helps

Brad
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:32 AM   #27
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Thanks

We will be working on it this weekend and hopefully have the easy fix!
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Old 02-27-2007, 07:48 PM   #28
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Colorized

Quote:
Originally Posted by str8strm
We will be working on it this weekend and hopefully have the easy fix!
Ron,

I decided to color in the blocks (something to do at work today ). Might make it easier to reference. At least it does for me

Brad
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