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Old 12-22-2014, 02:25 PM   #15
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
St Helens , Oregon
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Originally Posted by crazeevw View Post
Seems you have a one-of-a-kind Airstream 345. Never ever seen any Airstream Motorhome's with 2 entry doors.

Wonder for you rear hatch drip rail, if you were to get some of the plastic diverters that the SOB trailers use to drain water away from the sides of their trailers, to keep black streaks from happening? Sure you can find them at Camping World, Amazon, or even better, eBay.

Keep up posted, and would LOVE to see more photos of your motorhome.

Thanks, Derek
The drip rail diverters is a great idea! I will add those onto the drip rail asap!

Thanks Derek!
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:29 PM   #16
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
St Helens , Oregon
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Hi tedly,


I'm thinking as I'm typing, but my first thought would be to try to pull the trailer hitch towards the street side with the help of a fairly hefty winch and closely observe the door alignment while doing so. If things are heading in the right direction, I'd say you're on the right track.

Good luck,

Charly
Great idea, Charly! I'll have to get my buddy over with a winch and see how that pull would change the door frame. If anything, that will certainly realign the shell to the frame.

Ted~
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:31 PM   #17
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
St Helens , Oregon
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Originally Posted by mayco View Post
The door side of your hinges look similar to my main door. The jamb side of your hinges are undoubtedly different. On the main door, the door side of the hinge has threaded studs in the hinge with nuts on the back side of the door. Accessed by removing interior door skin.

That is GREAT news! I will be looking forward to looking inside the door frame for nuts with studs on the hinges!

Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:35 PM   #18
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
St Helens , Oregon
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Thanks all for your ideas and support so far! This next weekend I will try and get more accomplished with it and post something hopefully in a positive direction or a result if nothing else.

I do think the man entry doors and the rear hatch both use the same seal after studying them both! I will be ordering new door seals soon, but want to coorect the alignment prior to installing them.
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:34 PM   #19
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1991 30' Airstream 30
Lake Luzerne , New York
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Slightly different question about the rear hatch doors

Guys:

I have a 1991 Classic 300 LE and the rear hatch door has a plastic thermoformed panel on the exterior that at one time matched the colored stripes down the side of the motorhome. I have since stripped all the stripes and polished the motorhome and want to remove the cracked plastic piece. Does anyone know if there is a sheet of aluminum under the gray and red thermoformed piece that could be polished? Would I be able to simply (understatement) remove the piece and then have the rear match the rest of the coach? Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:09 AM   #20
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1989 37' Airstream 370
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tedly,

Please proceed with caution if you try the winch idea. I think I'd try to include some sort of "elastic" segment in between the winch cable and the hitch on your moho. Maybe a section of woven tow strap that will soften the application of pulling force a bit. I was just moving some logs around with the 12,000 pound winch on my truck today, and it occurred to me how powerful it actually is. I don't want to see you break anything! Once again, Good Luck!

Charly
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Old 12-24-2014, 12:22 AM   #21
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Winch use note of caution. Would like to assume everyone knows how to use a winch, however after seeing many a recovery gone wrong, it would be remiss if this was not mentioned: Unlike in the movies, it is not a good idea to circle the winch around and hook it to its own wire. This places a high tension line under it's weight rating of stress at a perpendicular angle to the cable, therefore acting as a super bolt cutter. To use it effectively one would want to use tow straps wrapped around and then hooked to the winch. If this is preaching to the choir, apologies in advance.
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Old 12-24-2014, 12:00 PM   #22
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
St Helens , Oregon
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Charlie and Vycan,

VERY good advice on winching! It is "never preaching to the choir" when in comes to advice in safety or any other forms in my book! Thanks guys!

I do have winching experience, used to operate cranes and some dozer winches in a previous carrier in heavy equpiment maintenance. Its always a good reminder if nothing else to post cautions on winching.

Before I do the winching idea, I am considering loosening the shell frame to chassis frame mounts and trying to shift things back in slow increments using the porta power. I feel I may have more control this way in getting it aligned and , for me, is more accecible then a winch at the moment. Still may need to resort that way if this doesn't pan out. It will be the weekend before I could get back to it but I'll keep ya posted!

Ted~
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Old 12-24-2014, 12:42 PM   #23
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Good luck tedly, hope it works
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:07 PM   #24
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
St Helens , Oregon
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Update -

Sadly I wasn't able to get as much done as I wanted with the rear hatch issue. I did remove the spare tire which lives under the rear frame area to get a better look at what might be going on. So far I cannot see actual shell shifting or a bent frame with the naked eye when looking from underneith. The whitness marks I was refering to earlier had to do with the trailer hitch mount only and not the shell or frame. Looking down both sides of the shell it looks as straight as an arrow. The bumper being offset has me baffled still as I cannot see anything underside that would cause it to shift the way it is ( the trailer hitch mount is actually bent the oposite way, to straighten it would make the bumper fit worse!). So at this point I have more questions then answers... I would love to make a pull from a winch or a push from a jack, but have no correcting direction yet. I have not busted out the good old tape measure, this will be my next step at the next oportunity.

I did work on my awning rail a little as well... I had removed the front awning to access the rail due to the rivets becoming loose and causing a water leak. I had drilled the rivets out, removed the rail and was cleaning and straightening the rail for reassembly. I am almost ready to get the Olympic rivets and sealant out to get the rail back into place. Will be adding a few more rivets at the ends to give it more integrity. This will repair a nasty rainwater leak I had been chasing so I am excited to get this done!

Cheers for now!


Ted~
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