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Old 07-07-2015, 08:10 AM   #15
Rivet Master
 
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Hanalei, /Chino Valley , Hawaii / Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 957
Aloha Mike, Good suggestion, I will check out the disconnect switches in the morning. I have been checking in and behind the battery drawer and doing some cleaning of ground points and connections there. What a mess of a layout that area is. The post about Mickey Mouse having done the wiring comes to mind. Quite a challenge tho having to allow for the travel of the drawer.

I really enjoyed our time hanging at Colorado Springs. Thanks for the tip, if it could only be that easy, I'll be stoked.

Cheers Richard
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:14 AM   #16
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1982 31' Airstream 310
champaign , Illinois
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 2,763
My "coach battery disconnect" on the 310 only disconnects the converter from the battery. I thought originally it was supposed to disconnect all the 12volt devices. After working on those switches yesterday I found that it just disconnects the converter from the battery. I guess to prevent over charging for the old single stage converters. ??????? Anyway, it's worth a look at those connections.

Lynn n I had a real good time getting to meet up with you and the others at the rally. So nice to put a face with the forum tags. You sound like you're off for more adventures in northern CA. Way cool. Your P looks awful good behind the 345.

Aloha,

Mike


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Old 07-07-2015, 10:44 AM   #17
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1982 28' Airstream 280
Redwood City , California
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,735
Hi Richard, what is the material you used for the air dam? I like the clear clearance light in the compartment!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tevake View Post
Oh I also made a new air dam for the front of the engine room while at it.

And repainted the colored part of grill and light buckets while I had them off the coach. That and sanding the bare metal parts down to 600 grit, really cleaned up the look of the front once reinstalled
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:24 AM   #18
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Hanalei, /Chino Valley , Hawaii / Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 957
I had to improvise a bit to get the stiffness in the material I was looking for the air dam.
I had a sheet of two ply rubber used for doing roof coatings on old fiberglass R Vs. Which was very playable . So I laminated a layer of that material on each side of a piece of the excess flooring material. A linoleum/ vinyl sort of more stiffer material . This resulted in a still somewhat flexible and heat, oil, chemi resistant material, that suited the job nicely.
If you look closely you can see the light colored flooring material showing where the cuts are.
If I had been able to find some thicker , less flexible. Rubber sheet material I would have used that.
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:56 PM   #19
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2012 27' Flying Cloud
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 255
Battery isolators are always a roadblock to an efficient charging system for deep-cycle house batteries. Even the best quality diodes will create a voltage drop of about 750mV. Consider replacing the isolator with a battery "combiner" that senses charge voltage and connects the batteries using a relay. When the engine isn't running and the voltage drops below about 13.8V, the relay isolates the batteries.

Here's one from Victron:

Victron Energy CYR010120010 (R) Cyrix-ct 12/24V-120A Battery Combiner

And here's the Blue Sea Systems line of combiners:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...harging_Relays
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Old 07-08-2015, 04:54 PM   #20
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Hanalei, /Chino Valley , Hawaii / Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 957
Thanks Gnorts, I hadn't heard of a battery combiner. Good info going forward into getting this charging stuff corrected.
I don't have deep cycle batts. Yet didn't want to splash out them till things are working properly
I've been in touch with Lewster in hood river and hope he can find time in his busy schedule to do some diagnostics work for me.
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