Plumbing issue

[Bethany533]

Just acquired a 1983 Motorhome 300. Unit has been sitting up for about 6 years. Prior to this, everything was in working order. Tried to fill the holding tank and flooded the interior. Replaced the strainer that was cracked but found another leak at a T connector site under the kitchen sink. How do I remove the T connector without breaking up the tubing? Can I use PEX with the old grey polybutylene tubing?

[kevinb]

you can connect pex/poly tubing, they make a coupling that will transition between the 2. It is best however to have a crimp tool and they are expensive. If the T has been crimped there is a tool that can remove the crimp ring. Or of course the tubing can be cut.

Kevin

[ScrapIrony-2]

there are connections called Sharks that will hook up to pex, copper, or pvc...mike

[Bethany533]

Okay so I fixed the known leak to only find another. I am considering redoing the entire plumbing to upgrade to PEX. This would mean taking a lot of things apart. How easy/difficult would this be? Am I getting in over my head?

[John H.]

Bethany

better you than some guy at the RV shop being trained in.

this will get YOU very familiar with the workings, and Placement of many items so you can better deal with issues in the future.

I consider this. Empowering You. so you can diagnose and fix anyplace you may travel. and not get towed or have a vacation ruined by being dependent on a shop.

Many times I will repair, upgrade or fix an issue while the family enjoys a camp site or RV Vacation. even a road side rest
as I quietly go about the repairs.
Farming, trucking or maintaining equipment does lead one to be very self sufficient and is all is a days process.

NOT the Tragedy some may make it out to be.

Maintain and Empower YOURSELF.
Lots of good tools and extra parts can be a very CHEAP investment.
buy the crimper s and whatever else.
saving the cost of ONE HRS. labor in a shop can purchase many tools.

[345bill]

Well said, John.

[ScrapIrony-2]

With the Shark connections, you simply plug in your choice of pipe...they seal automatically...no crimping, no clamps, no soldering...and they are removable with a simple plastic ring tool...m

[Bethany533]

Thank you John. You helped me make my decision. I started taking things apart today and it actually is going very well. Sofa out, sink out, stove out. Working on the kitchen counter/cabinets and this should expose everything in the front part of the motorhome. Things look pretty straight forward. I'm planning on replacing the water heater and furnace. Not sure that it is necessary but I thought since I would have everything apart it would be a good time to do it. Also, rivets are not that scary! They drill out very easy and go in easy too!
Thanks again!

[Bethany533]

Mike, I tried something called Apollo Push Tee to fix the first leak and I never could get a good seal. Was going to use the crimping system but SharkBite looks pretty straight forward. Have you used the SharkBite system? Any cons to using this system? I went to their website and seems simple.

[idroba]

Sharkbite fittings from Home Depot or the equal (think it is tigerbite) from Lowe's are great. You can connect copper, Poly, and Pex all with the same fittings and system. They are more than the crimp fittings for sure, but no tools needed to put them together. They do take up some more space in places where it may be critical to make the smallest possible connections. I talked to a professional plumbing supply counter guy one day and he said they had never had one come back as a failure. They are also reusable when you get the little removal tool for the size you are using (about $1.25). If you are doing a big job, the crimp tool and ring system may be more economical, but the Shark Bite system is much easier for smaller repairs.

[John H.]

Take Lots of Pictures.

document everything before removing, or cutting out. every nut, bolt and trim. piece of pipe and connections.

[kevinb]

like idroba said sharkbite conn. do require more space; something that is in short supply in a trailer and make sure the pipe is fully seated in the connector or it will leak.

[Mike Eagle]

When using "Sharkbite" style fittings it is extremely important that the tubing be pushed inside the fitting to a speicified depth for each size fittings. Mark your tubing for the specified depth so you have a visual reference as to how deep the tubing has been inserted into the fitting. The PO of my TV did not insert one PEX tube to the required depth on a hard to reach repair and I experienced a separation at that point during travel. Needless to say there was max water spray when I turned the water on and those type leaks usually go undetected at first.

[Phrunes]

Originally Posted by Bethany533

Mike, I tried something called Apollo Push Tee to fix the first leak and I never could get a good seal. Was going to use the crimping system but SharkBite looks pretty straight forward. Have you used the SharkBite system? Any cons to using this system? I went to their website and seems simple.

I just replumbed my entire 76 Argosy using pex and Sharbite fittings including the 1/4 turn shutoff's at each fixture. With proper planning, space should not be an issue. I went the expensive route and made every connection a removable (non crimp ring connection).

[ScrapIrony-2]

I have used a sharkbite connection behind the toilet in the moho, and one behind the washing machine in the home without wheels(splicing pex into copper)...our water pressure is at least 65 psi. m
(I swear I thought I already posted this...maybe it will show up on another thread)

[kevinb]

Trust me space can be an issue at times, I would not have wanted to use sharkbite conn. in a situation like this: (there is a tool to remove crimp rings as well)

[Phrunes]

Originally Posted by kevinb

Trust me space can be an issue at times, I would not have wanted to use sharkbite conn. in a situation like this: (there is a tool to remove crimp rings as well)

Hi Kevin,
I built a copper manifold in that very corner. What is the black thing in your picture? Is that the water pump?

[Bethany533]

Thanks for everyone's input. Another question: I'm not sure that the water heater is bad but thought while I have everything apart, it might be good to go ahead and replace the old unit with an up to date version. Any thoughts?

[Phrunes]

My thoughts are...
If you currently have a 6gal and have room, go for a 10gal
Stick with Suburban
If you have a 10 gal currently and the tank is good, just update the valve with something with addl. Features such as electronic ignition etc. Any reseller can advise you on the options and their respective costs. Good luck.