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Old 09-04-2016, 01:29 PM   #1
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Now that I'm down for the moment - Projects

Since I'm waiting on a tag and to resolve the hub issue, I'll get to a few projects that have been on the list for a bit. If anyone has some insight into the following, I'd be grateful for some input:

1. Cruise control diagnosis. Mine isn't working and if anyone has diagnosed where their problem is, I'd like to hear about the logical steps to determining the fault.
2. My dash AC is leaking condensed water into the passenger footwell. I've ran a wire up the drain line, but no change. Can I get in there from the floor level vent on the interior or do I need to go in through the front to see why water is running inside?
3. Engine temps. On a cool day, 75 or less I generally see 190-200 at 65-70 mph, on a hot day 90+ with air running, I can see 210-220. All on the dash gauge. Since I have not had this rig long, what's typical? Trying to determine if I need to attend to anything.
4. Windshield wipers! Fer pete's sake, I opened the dash thinking I'd see a pretty simple switch mechanism, and what I get is a whole lot of fine wires attached to the switch. I'm colorblind, which doesn't help. The motors are fine as they run with a jumper. I have to believe the switch is the issue. Replacements? Repair? what's the best method of diagnosing?
5. And of course, any leads on a 10 bolt Henschen hub will be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:34 PM   #2
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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Kurt, it would help if you put your year and model in your signature so we know what model you're asking about

Quote:
Originally Posted by DHC1 View Post
Since I'm waiting on a tag and to resolve the hub issue, I'll get to a few projects that have been on the list for a bit. If anyone has some insight into the following, I'd be grateful for some input:

1. Cruise control diagnosis. Mine isn't working and if anyone has diagnosed where their problem is, I'd like to hear about the logical steps to determining the fault.
The original cruise control from the Argosies to the mid 80s Classics used a vacuum servo for throttle control and there is also a vacuum line that runs up to the brake pedal switch. I think the idea behind having a vacuum switch is when the brake pedal is pushed the vacuum line is opened to atmosphere guaranteeing the throttle is released as soon as the pedal is pushed.

I had an 84 310 that had working cruise when I first got it but it eventually failed and I could never figure out what was wrong. I ended up installing a Rostra electronic cruise control system which worked very well.

Quote:
2. My dash AC is leaking condensed water into the passenger footwell. I've ran a wire up the drain line, but no change. Can I get in there from the floor level vent on the interior or do I need to go in through the front to see why water is running inside?
I think you should be able to see the evaporator condensate drain by pulling the cover off in the passenger foot well. At a minimum you should do that anyway just to check things out. You might also try blowing compressed air through the drain line.

Quote:
3. Engine temps. On a cool day, 75 or less I generally see 190-200 at 65-70 mph, on a hot day 90+ with air running, I can see 210-220. All on the dash gauge. Since I have not had this rig long, what's typical? Trying to determine if I need to attend to anything.
Odds are your radiator needs to be removed and cleaned and very possibly re-cored. Expect to spend between $600 - $1000 for the re-cored radiator.

One other thing to remember about the dash gauge. Typically if your voltage drops on the dash voltmeter your engine temp will rise at the same time. Lower voltage at the gauge means higher readings.

To really get an idea of what your engine temps are I would use a laser temp gauge and get a reading at the thermostat housing. I just installed a re-cored radiator in Peanut and after 20 minutes of idling the temperature doesn't get above about 165 degrees at the thermostat housing.

Quote:
4. Windshield wipers! Fer pete's sake, I opened the dash thinking I'd see a pretty simple switch mechanism, and what I get is a whole lot of fine wires attached to the switch. I'm colorblind, which doesn't help. The motors are fine as they run with a jumper. I have to believe the switch is the issue. Replacements? Repair? what's the best method of diagnosing?
Look at post #5 by Dan for the correct wiper control module.

Brad
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:49 PM   #3
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Brad - thanks, very helpful.

I have a 1987 345 - added to profile.

I did just pull the interior vent cover and there is a bit of crud in there that I'll clean out, not a lot and the drain hole is clear inside. Which leads to a question:

There's a flap that is intended to allow either outside air or interior air into the evaporator mine was being held closed by two pieces of rubber, so inside air only. However, I can neither see or feel any actuating mechanism on the flap. Designed that way or modified by a PO?

Kurt
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:52 PM   #4
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Interesting on the voltmeter indication in relation to the temp gauge - my VM has always read low, i.e. 11-12.5 volts, usually <12. I haven't worried about it since I know I'm charging fine and have just accepted it. I'll get out the laser thermometer.
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Old 09-04-2016, 03:48 PM   #5
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Hmmm, so that's why my engine temp goes up every time I turn the lights on.....

My owner's manual for the same drivetrain says that normal operating temperature is 190-240F. After getting the radiator pulled and cleaned, my gauge reads about 200 on a flat road at 60 mph, but my ac is non-op and I pretty much never go faster than that. I do hit 220 on long grades. Brad is right, though, unless you know when the radiator was last pulled it should be on a preventative maintenance list.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHC1 View Post
Brad - thanks, very helpful.

I have a 1987 345 - added to profile.

I did just pull the interior vent cover and there is a bit of crud in there that I'll clean out, not a lot and the drain hole is clear inside. Which leads to a question:

There's a flap that is intended to allow either outside air or interior air into the evaporator mine was being held closed by two pieces of rubber, so inside air only. However, I can neither see or feel any actuating mechanism on the flap. Designed that way or modified by a PO?

Kurt
Does your evaporator box look anything like the one in these pictures? The pics are from an 86 345 that I dismantled. It had what I think was a fresh air intake that routed air to the bottom of the evaporator box. It didn't have a flap to cover the opening and it didn't appear that it ever did. I'm betting your's is a PO mod.

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I know some people like the fresh air coming in and others don't. My 74 Argosy evaporator box had a fresh air intake that has a vacuum operated flap to close it off although it doesn't seal very well. I plan on adding some sort of removable exterior flap to cover it so that in the hot summer months there won't be any hot air coming in from outside.

Brad
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:42 PM   #7
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Interesting on the voltmeter indication in relation to the temp gauge - my VM has always read low, i.e. 11-12.5 volts, usually <12. I haven't worried about it since I know I'm charging fine and have just accepted it. I'll get out the laser thermometer.
It will be interesting to see how close the laser reading matches your gauge. I'm betting it doesn't
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:45 PM   #8
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Hmmm, so that's why my engine temp goes up every time I turn the lights on.....
I noticed this phenomenon when I would flip the headlights on while driving during the day time hours. Not long after the lights would go on my temperature would start going up and the dash volt meter would show a voltage drop. Turn the headlights off and the temperature started to drop and the volt meter would start showing a higher voltage. I always seemed to run a hotter temperature at night when the headlights had to be on!
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:50 PM   #9
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Exactly the same evap box. The "fresh" air comes in from the bottom. The flap looks factory to me, the rubber bits holding it closed are definitely not. but no actuator or other way of remote operation that I can see or feel, which i find interesting. It springs to the "fresh air" position by default.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waipio Rim View Post
Hmmm, so that's why my engine temp goes up every time I turn the lights on.....

My owner's manual for the same drivetrain says that normal operating temperature is 190-240F. After getting the radiator pulled and cleaned, my gauge reads about 200 on a flat road at 60 mph, but my ac is non-op and I pretty much never go faster than that. I do hit 220 on long grades. Brad is right, though, unless you know when the radiator was last pulled it should be on a preventative maintenance list.
My dash air was inop as well, I recharged it with Red-Tek refrigerant and it's been great since then. We have a '78 GMC as well and when we got that the dash air was also inop, and again the Red-Tek brought it right back to the point where it can freeze. I know there's debate regarding the hydrocarbon refrigerants, but I'm a believer for what it's worth.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:57 PM   #11
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Kurt, unfortunately I don't remember much about how the evaporator box worked on the 345. I was in a dismantling mode on the 345 and didn't really pay attention to details like that, sorry

Brad
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Old 09-04-2016, 07:14 PM   #12
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No problem - right now it's the least of my conundrums! Thanks for the input.
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:09 PM   #13
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Made some progress, cleaned out the evaporator box from the inside with compressed air and a vacuum, cleared the drain hose. Replaced the motor in the non-functioning shower fan, works a treat now.

Figured out that the house/chassis battery jump solenoid was incorrectly wired by a shop who "found a problem and fixed it". I have the batteries wired correctly, but can't find the wire from the jump switch to the solenoid. Hmm, digging into that now.

Exhaust leaks have been my bane lately, found out that somewhere along the line a air pump hose had jumped ship, put it back on, made a huge difference of course, but the new exhaust system is still leaking at the donuts - rrrgggg. I'll have to call the exhaust shop - again.

Oh, and don't forget to let me know about that Henschen hub that you don't really need

Have a good one all!
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:30 PM   #14
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Figured out that the house/chassis battery jump solenoid was incorrectly wired by a shop who "found a problem and fixed it". I have the batteries wired correctly, but can't find the wire from the jump switch to the solenoid. Hmm, digging into that now.
The only clue I can give you is it should be a 14 or 16 gauge wire, probably the only one of that size in the general area!
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