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Old 10-08-2018, 03:38 PM   #21
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Churubusco , Indiana
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Sorry, yea, the little one should be the chassis vin
It's possible compnine doesn't go back that far for the P-30?
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Old 10-08-2018, 03:52 PM   #22
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My 1990 ran straight off the VIN. I think technical issue. Most of the parts houses run off similar back end databases. I posted my readout somewhere so take a look at that in case something obvious
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:28 PM   #23
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Jamul , California
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Ok, it's just bad luck. I called compnine they were great on the phone. They looked up the VIN and verified that it is indeed missing. There is a hole in the data my VIN and a few others around it, in the series are missing. He said to keep checking back that they continue to fill it in.
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Old 10-20-2018, 05:17 PM   #24
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Menomonee Falls , Wisconsin
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Hey guys,
Nice looking ride. Interior looks very clean. That's half the battle.
Suggestion, to keep you from getting overwhelmed. Take on one thing at a time. Radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, on/off valves by heater, and the one under the couch, for the aux heater.
Fuel stuff, hoses, go with high pressure hose, so if you decide to go with fuel injection, not duplication of work needed.
Don't skimp on stuff. That's what bites you down the road.
The master cylinder might be good now, it's a lot easier to replace in driveway, and a whole lot cheaper too.
The radiator is a total pain to get out, but it's the one thing that will break down when you need it the most. So take it out and get it boiled out and pressure tested.
All that stuff I did on mine really didn't cost to much. It's basically a one ton dally with a 454. Parts are pretty cheap.
The age of the unit, is where you get into trouble. Everything is dry rotted.
When you do the radiator, take them the gas tank too, and have it boiled and checked out.
We should all get these beasts done and meet somewhere. . Oh, we got this forum, never mind... Well good luck. Keep us posted on progress. DJ
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Old 10-20-2018, 06:54 PM   #25
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Jamul , California
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Lucky number 8

I just putting this post together and saw your post DJ, thank you. I am finding it overwhelming and appreciate your input.

I was out of town again, life has been interrupting my retirement schedule and making progress on the 345. I will be going back and forth for a bit. My wife and I are at the point in our lives that we are retired but we are losing our parents which consumes a lot of time and changes my schedule.

I had my unit at a local RV repair shop mainly for a second look at the big stuff and I think they did that well. I had them do a couple things so I could make some progress. Had them pull the pan on the transmission, change the filter and verify the rear seal wasn't leaking. Looks like the leak I had was the pan. changed the oil and belts. I had a fuel leak at the tank, pressure regulator, fixed. So got a couple things done.
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Related to heat, I was concerned on my 600 mile drive home that heat could be an issue. The hot light came on, had to stop and let it cool on the grapevine. I also saw the temperature rise on the way home yesterday on a 4 mile grade when I pushed it up to 55 mph. The hot light came on when I had to stop at a intersection at the top of the hill, went away when I started moving. Looks like it comes on at 225 or so, and that is as high as it went. I have a exhaust leak at the doughnut on the passenger side I need to fix. I have a lot of vacuum hose to change. I pulled one of the wires off of the plugs just to look and I picked lucky number 8.
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It has obviously been a long term issue for the previous owner. It fell to pieces when I touched it it, petrified.
I am lucky I didn't have more issues on the 600 mile trip.

Do all these units run hot? Is that one of the major issues long term with these guys?

Thanks, all
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Old 10-20-2018, 07:46 PM   #26
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The really big problem with the 454's, is heat; if the radiator is blocked in anyway or the clutch fan doesn't work they will overheat rapidly. Sparkplugs and especially spark plug wires need to be shielded; unfortunately a lot of this shielding rusts off, or is forgotten to be replaced by service shops. Exhaust manifolds tend to warp and leak because of the heat and gaskets get blown, which only adds to the heat in the engine bay.

This is overwhelming, trust me, we've all been there buying these old queens; so breakdown and prioritize your fix it list.

Starting with safety, and not wanting to be in an accident, or towed.

1) Fuel lines, replace all of them, especially around or on top of the motor; new fuel filter.
2) Tires, get your tires DOT'ed; don't forget the spare. The week and year are branded at the end of the DOT number. If your tires are post 2000 you will see four numbers on just one side of the tire; (3114 would be the 31st week of 2014, the tire was made).
3) Water pump, radiator, (flushed or recore), clutch fan, thermostat, hoses and coolant, if they haven't been replaced in the last five years.
4) Brakes; probably new master cylinder needed, new fluid and new rubber brake lines, as replacing these 30+ year old rubber lines makes an incredible difference in braking.
5) Engine, transmission and rear differential oil change. Check to see if you have a Gear Vendors overdrive, as that oil needs to be changed regularily as well.
6) Steering and Suspension, especially lower ball joints!!!!, tie rod ends, alignment, crank bells, shocks and steering damper, front springs for ride height, compressor, levellor valve operation (check air system for leaks, including front and rear airbags).
7) Lubricate all lubrication points up front and don't forget the driveshaft as well. Remember to wipe off nipple before greasing.
8) Lights and vision, marker lights and four ways, wipers and fluid.

Everything else can be gotten to as the budget and time allows.

I may have missed a couple.

Welcome to the aluminitus club, and remember the most important thing.......
The purchase price was just the down payment.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
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Old 10-20-2018, 07:58 PM   #27
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On the vin: my 1990 345 has vin 1GBKP37W8K3329927. No record on compnine or other sites I tried except for vindecoderz.com. That site at least showed that it is, as I suspected, a 1989 chassis.
On running temps: the owners manual says that normal operating temperature is 190-240. I still get nervous and back off the gas at 225, although I have only seen that on a long grade in the Rockies. Another member (WayneG?) posted a good thread about upgrading to this radiator: https://superiorradiator.net/shop?ol...ine-oil-cooler , it is on my wish list.
Nice coach, stick with it!
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:12 AM   #28
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I appreciate the clarity from this group. It is easy to bounce all over the place trying to get it all done with equal urgency. Thanks for the wisdom from you all.
r/ Mike
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Old 10-21-2018, 01:47 PM   #29
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Auckland , New Zealand
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Hi, Yes that is a fine looking 345!
Regarding these 454 running hot, I have read somewhere in the past that fitting an air dam sheild on the right side inner wheel well to direct the stream off air from grill to travell past and exit under the vehicle as at the present configeration without that missing tin plate dam it tends to not cool rear off motor and scoots more out the side off engine compartment. Your #8 plug getting cooked would be consistent with this as a contributing issue.
If you look at the Left side off motor looking through wheel arch you should see a factory fitted one that I guess serves as an added purpose to sheild the master cylinder ect. I am looking at measuring up mine and could post the template with fold lines.
Rus
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Old 10-21-2018, 03:02 PM   #30
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AARRGGHH! I knew I missed something......belts; replace your belts, and check your coil packs.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
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Old 10-21-2018, 04:51 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltair View Post
I am looking at measuring up mine and could post the template with fold lines.
Rus
I have this in my notes for the heat shield, copied from an earlier thread: see page 7-4 of the P-30 Chassis Service Manual, or http://truckroadservice.com/barth_at...H_15983041.pdf
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Old 10-21-2018, 05:14 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
AARRGGHH! I knew I missed something......belts; replace your belts, and check your coil packs.



Cheers

Sidekick Tony


Coil? What’s a coil? [emoji3]
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Old 10-21-2018, 06:55 PM   #33
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champaign , Illinois
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Quote:
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Coil? What’s a coil? [emoji3]
Right underneath your injection pump Dave!
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Old 10-21-2018, 08:22 PM   #34
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Menomonee Falls , Wisconsin
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Hey,
You got a really sweet looking ride. Cosmetically, it looks like you need very little. That's a huge plus. Camp in the driveway, get a feel for it. Then when the big day comes, you'll know the inner works like you've had it forever. All this mechanical stuff is really pretty easy.just a little overwhelming,cause it's a lot of little things. Hey, your in California. Imagine laying on your back doing fuel or antifreeze stuff in Wisconsin,,, in November. There's a good thing for you. It's good therapy. Anyway, good luck we'll be keeping in our thoughts and prayers. DJ
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Old 10-21-2018, 08:31 PM   #35
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Hey,
Loose the stock exhaust manifolds. Get some headman full length headers, 3 inch pipes, into a pair of Walker quiet flow mufflers. Quiet with a little rumble. Free flowing , no more exhaust leaks, and a cooler engine compartment. DJ
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:28 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kota View Post
Coil? What’s a coil? [emoji3]
I don't know. John was yipping about bad coil packs when I was having trouble getting the Argosy home; something to do with sparkplugs, wires, distributors??

All I know is that my Isuzu doesn't have them and neither do the two 5.9 Cummins engines have them.

What do I know? I know I hate sparkplugs distributors, rotors, wires, plugs, and I guess, coil packs

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
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Old 10-22-2018, 11:21 AM   #37
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Easy Tony, your Cummins has a coil on the fuel shutoff.
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Old 10-22-2018, 11:27 AM   #38
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Easy Tony, your Cummins has a coil on the fuel shutoff.
It won't when I convert it to manual shut off. I like the fact that I can start the Mistress and then take the keys out while she still runs.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
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Old 10-22-2018, 01:03 PM   #39
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Keep the coil and put in a simple toggle switch. Accomplish the same thing a save a lot of hassle and dollars installing control cable and converting high pressure pump to manual fuel shutoff.
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Old 10-30-2018, 10:22 AM   #40
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2006 28' Safari
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mystery mount

Working on the 345. Still inspecting.
The steps were not working which was a pain each time I moved the unit.

Opened the motor cleaned the rotor, points and brushes. checked voltages on the controller. Cleaned some corrosion on the bearings and greased the gear box. WD40 on all the stair joints and bearing. Now working great on the wall and door switch. The safety feature from the ignition is not working. Can't find a wire in that area comes from the ignition. still working this one.

The front air bags are shot.
The rear bags are holding air.
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I noticed something was missing. It was attached to the frame in the rear on both sides, parallel form each other.
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Any idea what this was? Dual exhaust heat shields come to mind, maybe? I can see some old exhaust hangers on the passenger side. Currently the exhaust flows into a single muffler.

r/ Mike
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