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clemensk · 02-11-2018, 08:57 PM

Hello,

I purchased the Diesel Swap from Portland. It is in an awful condition. I drove it down to California and now I want to restore it properly. I need to redo the entire steering/suspension/braking stuff entirely.

First Question: are there any complete lists what I have to order? Mood parts or OEM? What is better?

Second question:

I want to work from up, not from down. What happens if I drill the rivets out to remove these parts? How is the windshield installed? I want to remove the blue lined parts.. any advice?

Best regards

Clemens

tevake · 02-12-2018, 03:55 AM

Welcome to the asylum Clemensk, glad to have you join us.

At the age of our classics most mechanical systems and rv appliances are due for overhaul or replacement. It's good that you made it home with your new rig.

Not sure what mood parts are, but it is nice that napa and most other parts suppliers have or can quickly get most parts needed for the chassis related repairs. With some notable exceptions, radiators come to mind. Recoreing is an answer in that case.

There is quite a welded in frame work under the skin in the cab sections that would still be in the way of doing engine work. As well as an amazing tangle of wiring and other components under the dash and in the forward under hood area.
Engine access is gained thru the front by removing the grill, hood and the radiator. Or thru the doghouse. The inner wheel wells can be removed for access to the sides of the engine. Not sure you would gain much by removing the skins.
Others here may add to this idea.

Searching here may turn up former post on areas or systems that you are digging into, or asking for specific details will bring support from those that have allready been there and can help.

Looks like you found a nice rig, the diesel being a plus. And are on the right track in getting it roadworthy. And fun/safe to use.

They are well worth the efforts once you are out there cruising and camping.

Cheers Richard

Hans 34.5 · 02-12-2018, 06:40 AM

Hello Clemens
I just did a lot of work to the front end on my 345. Replaced brake lines MC, front coil springs everything on the front of the engine. Fun no but needed to be done. Pulling the skin off is not going to give you much extra what will you do with the floor may as well pull the whole body off omg.

Rock auto has good pricing on some of the parts you need.
And has moog parts.
What diesel is in your MO?
It was a gasser.
Your front end looks low to the ground.

Enjoy your new ride.

clemensk · 02-12-2018, 02:09 PM

Hey Hans 34.5,

I have to remove the skin to dent the front part out, and I have to check how the floor situation is, but for sure the entire floor in the back area will be replaced, it is rotted and not strong anymore. It is a 7.3IDI Diesel with a E4OD. Both are strong except that the new starter doesn't disengage always, will have to check this. I will check rock auto. The picture was taken before the front airbags went in, now the ground clearance is higher. But I think I need to put a little bit stronger springs in it to compensate the weight of the new engine. I will start to gut it out this weekend and then I will see.

bkahler · 02-12-2018, 02:28 PM

If you try to remove the outer skin as you're suggesting you won't gain anything by doing so. Once the outer skin is off there is the inner skin you would have to deal with. And then there is the insulation between the walls, etc.

Having dismantled and scrapped a 345 it's my belief that the only way to work on these is the way everyone has been doing it for years which is basically laying under neath or reaching in from the front or laying on top of the engine. Richard gave some good advice on how to access things from the front.

As for the dent you have to deal with you can try a suction cup or something similar. Since the skin is made of aluminum once a dent is present the skin gets stretched and there's no real way that I know of to shrink it back to size. The particular section of skin you're looking at is formed over a die and unfortunately is no longer available from Airstream. The best option would be to leave it as is.

Swillv8 · 02-12-2018, 03:11 PM

for aftermarket parts including front springs. supersteer is a great company to get some front end parts from definitely the best quality out there.

Keyair · 02-13-2018, 07:07 AM

Welcome!
Where in CA are you?

Seem to remember seeing a 7.3 diesel powered MH in the NW posted on the For Sale thread...
if so, that’s a new one and I/we need to know all about it!
I will also have to add it to the Diesel swap thread!

I think he meant MOOG parts. Smell check sucks.... [emoji3]
Normally better quality ball joints etc.

Pictures of the dent and engine please!!!!!

clemensk · 02-20-2018, 11:43 AM

Hello again,

so this weekend I gutted her out. Nothing left inside anymore. It was around 800kg what I brought to the landfill. If anyone wants the microwave, the propane cooker or the 6.5kw genset - it is available now.

The engine is a 7.3IDI with an Allison 545 transmission. This is a confusing combination. If someone has data, I would be interested in the weight of the original configuration. (7.4l, 454 and th475??) I need to calculate the additional weight to know how much is left for the interior and how to deal with the springs. Btw, does anyone ever went with an empty factory 310 on a scale? Is the advertised weight correct?
And has anyone a source for the windshield and an manual how to get the old ones out?

Best regards

clemens

Keyair · 02-20-2018, 11:48 AM

Nice Work...

Info says the engine is about 900lb or 410 KG... so thats probably 2-300lb more than the 454...

Engine info...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intern..._Harvester_IDI

http://www.dieselhub.com/idi/7.3-idi.html

http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi.htm

http://www.trucktrend.com/features/1...iesel-engines/

martin300662 · 02-20-2018, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clemensk

And has anyone a source for the windshield and an manual how to get the old ones out?

Screens are available from Coach Glass (https://www.coachglass.com/), supplied to them by RV Glass (http://www.rvglassexperts.com/rv_windshields.html) (both companies owned by same guy, but only Coach Glass have a retail arm). Make sure you order with the correct tint (along the top edge) to match the existing ones.

To remove/re-install you remove the locking bead, easiest done using a locking tool like this

The screens run at about $750 plus tax and shipping (which can double the price) so seriously consider having one installed by one of the nationwide glass replacement companies as they may already have supply agreements in place to cover things like shipping.

Swillv8 · 02-20-2018, 01:03 PM

This is from November 7th, post from me on anther thread. Not sur if you are able to drive to Oregon but here are the prices.

Okay excellent news!!!!!

I called rv glass solutions and confirmed a 81 argosy/ airstream windscreen is

$544 per side
$336 gasket
$60 urethane kit
$650 labour
----------------------
$2134 total.

This is obviously today's price, price can change etc etc.

I made the mistake initially calling mine a classic? Only thing that came up in their system was a 1990??( I thought this was the same size as 82?) or is it wide body?

Well I'm recording the price here anyways. 41" high. 53"wide.

$427 per side other costs are the same

The lady I spoke to gave me a bit of detail. They make the glass, they supply coach. It is thicker and stronger than guardian brand( original). Also cross strength, radius, something for how it's made is better. Only colour they offer is blue tint. They need 1.5 days to install(. 1/2 install, 24 hr cure). If you go to coburg, Oregon obviously no shipping. On the website they list Arizona and Florida as other warehouses so check into it as a drive to one of these locations can save you money

As for myself cheapest quote I could find locally was $4750cad. In Oregon its$2750cad. It's a 1100 mile one way trip. I'm going to try to do this next year make a mini vacation out of it. I'll probably spent the $5g still but some of that will be bonding time with my girl and a couple good friends with good food and drinks in Oregon

Hans 34.5 · 02-21-2018, 10:20 AM

What's next.
I see in the bedroom it looks like you pulled some of the covering off the aluminum. Is that what I'm seeing. The shiny panel.

Isuzusweet · 02-21-2018, 04:11 PM

I don't know how many times I've told people....keep everything until your renovation is complete, as you never know what little part you need, or panel to use as a template.

I say this with all hope and prayers....Goodluck with your project.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

bkahler · 02-21-2018, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

I don't know how many times I've told people....keep everything until your renovation is complete, as you never know what little part you need, or panel to use as a template.

I say this with all hope and prayers....Goodluck with your project.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

If nothing else the original parts are good for patterns. I only toss an original part after I'm sure I've installed some sort of replacement. What that really means is I've still got a lot of old sh!t laying around

Brad

Isuzusweet · 02-21-2018, 07:30 PM

To the OP....it looks like you had the rear convertible lounge, (two sofa/beds) in the back......you didn't throw them out; or the front folding couch, did you?

You do realize that your interior gables were all aluminum clad paper reboard......extremely strong and light......and could have been revinyled with modern vinyl........

If you want to see what could have been done with your old interior, just goggle Mistress thread, airforums, starting at page 5, and check out what my interior looks like, (sofa's have since been reupholstered).

clemensk · 02-21-2018, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

I don't know how many times I've told people....keep everything until your renovation is complete, as you never know what little part you need, or panel to use as a template.

I say this with all hope and prayers....Goodluck with your project.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

I totally agree. But to defend myself there was not so much in as I got it. (picture attached) plus the previous owner added a floor on the rotted subfloor. Most of the interior was already screwed out once. I will use the inside aluminium panels as template. Furniture wise I will change a lot, so there is no value in keeping the old parts. But I have to admit that I was kind of impressed, the build quality was much better than today. Nearly European standard. They used honeycomb/aluminium walls. That is actually aircraft style.

So, what will come next: I started to order steering and suspension parts. I have problems to find the heavy duty control arms, does anyone has a part number? As I understand the step van ones aren't a good match.

davejay · 03-28-2018, 07:16 AM

hey,
Is the windsheild on a classic, the same as the argosy windsheild? 450.00 compared to 900.00 for glas is quite a difference. I don't mind the blue tint. Anybody installed one themselves? I've done cars an my 56 Chevy truck. Any tips? Thanks DJ

bkahler · 03-28-2018, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davejay

hey,
Is the windsheild on a classic, the same as the argosy windsheild? 450.00 compared to 900.00 for glas is quite a difference. I don't mind the blue tint. Anybody installed one themselves? I've done cars an my 56 Chevy truck. Any tips? Thanks DJ

Dave,

I have never been told they are the same but I've owned a 310 and an Argosy and they were parked side by side for years. Both sets of windshields looked the same to me. Also, the cab structures are the same so I'm fairly certain the glass is the same.

I believe Martin could probably answer the question with certainty and I'm sure he'll chime in on the subject soon.

Brad

martin300662 · 03-28-2018, 11:39 AM

The base part number is the same for the Argosy and all the Airstream MH up to the 360s, which are obviously different.

More so, the glass currently sold by Coach Glass, even that supplied by Airstream is made by Coach Glass's sister company RV Glass Solutions.

Best prices seem to come direct from RV Glass Solution, check this thread out for more info http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ml#post2031689

clemensk · 03-28-2018, 11:00 PM

Hello again from me,

I'm still working on the base. A big thanks for all the great info here. I found out that there was a repair on the driverside front panel and the entire back panel section. On top the driving area panel is dented too but most of it went out with just hitting it with a fist. I will prepare a skateboard wheel on a holder to roll it even. After I cleaned the engine and replaced the frontend I will order the windshields!

Thanks for the help!